
Qass- 

Book 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 




NORTHERN 
rilCHIGAN 



^EC 7 1898 



NORTHERN MICHIGAN. 



rlandbook for 1 ravelers, 



INCLUDING THE 



Northern Part of Lower Michigan, 
Mackinac Island, 



AND THE 



Sault Ste. Marie River. 

With Maps and Illustrations, 



By JAMES GALE INGLIS,^ ^ 



GEO< E. SPRANG, Publisher. Petoskey, Mich. 

1898. 



ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 






20579 




•0 COPIES KECii. 







Table of Contents. 



¥¥¥ 
Introduction. 

I. Northern Michig-an— Geog-raphical Situation. 

II. The Great Lakes — General Information. 

III. The Peninsulas of Michig-an— Geolog-ical History. 

IV. The Topog-raphj^ of Michig-an. 
V Transportation Facilities. 

VI. Climate and Clothing- 

VII. Bag-gag-e, Hotel Life, Fees, Etc. 

VIII. Amusements — Tennis, Golf, etc.; Bathing, Boating, Driv- 

ing, Bicycling. 

IX. Camping, Fishing, Hunting, Game Laws. 

PART I — Routes to Northern Michigan. 
BY RAIL. 

I. From Chicago to Grand Rapids : 

o. Via Chicago & West Michigan Railway-. 
b. Via Grand Rapids & Indiana Railway (Grand Trunk 
to Vicksburg). 

II. From Detroit to Grand Rapids : 

a Via Detroit, Grand Rapids & Western Railway. 
b. Via Detroit, Grand Haven & Milwaukee Railway. 

III. From Grand Rapids to Traverse City, Petoskey, Mackinaw 

City. 

a. Via Grand Rapids & Indiana Railway. 
b Via Chicago & West Michigan Railway, 

IV. From Detroit to Bay City, Cheboygan and Mackinaw City, 

via Michigan Central Railway. 

BY STEAMER. 

I. From Chicago to Petoskey & Mackinac. 

II. From Detroit to Mackinac. 



'J 



PART II — Grand Traverse Bay. 

1. Traverse City and Immediate E^nvirons. 
From Traverse City to Northport. 
The I^eelanaw Peninsula. 

3. From Traverse City to Old Mission 

The Old Mission Peninsula. 

4. From Traverse City to Charlevoix. 

(1) By Rail. 

(2) Via Elk Rapids and Intermediate Lakes. 

PART III— Little Traverse Bay, 

1. Charlevoix and Immediate Environs. 

2. Excursions from Charlevoix. 

(1) Pine Lake. 

(2) To East Jordan by Carriage Road. 

(3) To Beaver Island. 

3. Petoskey and Immediate Environs. 

4. Eittle Traverse Bay from Petoskey to Harbor Spring-s. 

5. Excursion to Cross Village. 

6. Excursions from Petoskey. 

(1) To Mackinac Island by rail 

via Mackinaw City. 

(2) The Inland Route. 

(3) Bear Lake. 

PART IV — Mackinac Island and Upper Peninsula, 

1. Introduction (historical). 

2. Mackinac Island. 

3. Environs of Mackinac Island. 

4. From Mackinac Island to Sault Ste. Marie. 





Lake Winibigon 








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1/ S E G ' 








PREFACE, 

¥¥¥ 

^^HE object of this Handbook for Northern Michig-an 
is to supply the traveler with reliable information 
concerning- the points of interest in the various places 
visited, the natural features of the country, and the 
provisions for his entertainment, comfort and transpor- 
tation. In a word, in every way to aid him in deriving- 
the utmost pleasure and profit from his tour in this 
beautiful and fascinating reg-ion. 

This Handbook undertakes to be what the now 
famous " Baedecker's " are to the countries which they 
cover. Of course the widely differing- conditions require 
different treatment in detail, but the dig-nity, accuracy- 
and completeness of the Baedecker g-uides are the qual- 
ities aimed at in the compilation of this book. The 
whole work is based upon the personal knowledg-e of 
the author and publisher, who have long- been residents 
of the region described, and no pains have been spared 
to make this book as complete and perfect as possible. 

There are few reg-ions that offer more fascinating- 
and varied attractions to the intellig-ent traveler than 
northern Michigan. To its charm of location, swept by 
three great inland seas, is added the marvelous health- 
giving properties of its climate. The scenery is 
unrivaled in the world, varying from the weird and 
gorgeous grandeur of Pictured Rocks to the dainty 
beauty of the Sault Ste. Marie River or the exquisite 
contour of Little Traverse Bay which rivals, both in 
situation and color, the famous Bay of Naples. 



The native wildness of a great part of this reg^ion 
is an added charm. Its waters teem with fish, its 
forests with g-ame. Innumerable inland lakes of rarest 
beaut}^ afford a paradise for those who enjoy "camping- 
out," exploring-, and the sports of forest and stream. 

In foreig-n countries whose civilization reaches back 
into the Past for centuries, the principal points of in- 
terest are ancient ruins, g-reat cathedrals, art g-alleries, 
museums and historic monuments. While these will 
not be found here, yet the historic interest of this 
country is by no means insig-nificant, for it reaches back 
to the earliest French and Eng-lish explorers and in- 
cludes much that was central of colonial and early 
American histor3\ The, alas, too rapidly disappearing- 
landmarks of old Indian and early American life add in- 
creasing- importance to the appreciation and preservation 
of the priceless frag-ments which yet remain. 

It further remains to be noted that a country which 
stands first in the production of copper, iron and lime, 
whose shores are strewn with corals and ag-ates, whose 
rocks are full of fossils rare and beautiful, must have an 
interest to the scientific traveler of no small importance. 
In recent years increasing- and remarkably improved 
facilities for travel have made the charms of this 
country easily accessible to travelers from all points, so 
that every year increases by hundreds, if not thousands, 
the number of those who seek rest and pleasure on its 
shores. 

Prog-ress in this direction has been very marked in 
recent years. Pine vestibuled trains are run daily by 
the Grand Rapids & Indiana Railway to Petoskey, Bay 
View and Mackinaw City, and by the Chicag-o & West 
Michig-an Railway to Traverse City, Charlevoix, Petos- 
key and Bay View. Complete suburban service to 



various resorts and fishing- grounds is everywhere pro- 
vided. The Michig-an Central R. R. and the Detroit, 
Grand Rapids & Western R. R. are throug-h connecting- 
lines with perfect connections with the east, while the 
Detroit, South Shore & Atlantic R. R. and the Minne- 
eapolis, St. Paul and Sault Ste. Marie R. R. continue 
the service from St. Ig-nace and the Sault across the 
upper peninsula to Marquette, Escanaba, Duluth, St. 
Paul, Minneapolis and the west. 

Transportation by water is equally complete. From 
eastern ports the Northern Transportation Co. have two 
mag-nificent steamers, the Northland and the Northwest 
(see pag-e 51) making- through trips from Cleveland, 
Buffalo and Detroit to Mackinac and Duluth, and the 
Duluth & Cleveland Steam Navig-ation Co. continue 
their justly popular service. While from Chicag-o we 
have the old reliable boats of the Seymour line, the 
Petoskey and Charlevoix, and the palatial express 
steamer Manitou of the Lake Michig-an and Lake 
Superior line (see pag-e 46). 

All these facts combine to make an imperative 
demand for a carefully prepared Handbook which will 
indicate, not only the prominent points of interest, but 
others equally important that mig-ht easily escape the 
transient traveler's notice ; which will g-ive brief but 
accurate description of the points of historic and scien- 
tific interest ; which will direct the sportsman to the 
places he most desires to find — in short a g-uide to every 
traveler, which will enable him to g-et quickly and 
readily from place to place, to enjoy intellig-ently what 
he sees, and to inform himself reliably concerning- that 
which he most wishes to know. 

The Handbook is divided into four parts beside the 
Introduction. Part One covers the various routes by 



which Northern Michig-an may be reached and aims to 
g-ive a rapid but complete sketch of the special items of 
interest which the traveler will pass en route. The 
other three divisions are based upon the three geograph- 
ical districts into which the country described is natur- 
all}" divided, namely : Part Two, Grand Traverse Bay, 
including- Traverse City with adjacent peninsulas. 
Part Three, Little Traverse Bay, including- Charlevoix, 
Petoskey, Harbor Springs, the Inland Route and their 
environs. Part Pour, Mackinac Island, including- the 
Cheneaux Islands (the "Snows"), St. Ig-nace and the 
Sault Ste. Marie River. 

As far as possible the descriptions have been pre- 
pared to embrace, in the details of the various routes, 
every item of interest, historic, scientific, scenic and 
general. It could hardly be hoped that mistakes do not 
occur, but the reader is assured that great care has been 
taken to avoid them. Any suggestions or corrections 
that may be noted in the actual use of the Handbook 
will be greatly appreciated by the author. The index 
in the back ot the book will be found of value for ready 
reference. 

While advertisements have been admitted into one 
edition in order to reduce the cost, scrupulous care has 
been taken to secure their absolute reliability, and they 
have been limited to those lines of trade concerning 
which the traveler most desires to know. In other 
words, nothing has been admitted merely for the sake 
of advertising, the needs of the reader being the sincere 
and single aim of this book. A library edition, without 
advertisements and bound in cloth, is also published 
and is commended to those who may find the book 
worthy of more than passing interest. 

The maps and plans have been carefully prepared 



and will, it is believed, be ample assistance to the trav- 
eler. The illustrations are abundant and chosen with a 
view to preserve many g-limpses of a rapidly-disappear- 
ing- life, as well as to illustrate the charms and beauties 
of this enchanted land. Tog-ether with the more prom- 
inent hotels, a list of private boarding- houses is g-iven, 
where those who prefer quieter living- may secure com- 
fortable accommodations at reasonable rates. While in 
this, as in other items of local information, every pains 
has been taken to secure accuracy, yet it will be remem- 
bered by the reasonable reader that chang-es are 
inevitable in all communities, and due allowance will 
be made. 

Grateful appreciation of the assistance so cordially 
rendered in every community in the preparation of this 
Handbook, is hereby acknowledg-ed. Special thanks 
are due to the officials of the Chicag-o & West Michig-an 
R. R., the Grand Rapids & Indiana R. R., the Arnold 
Steamboat line, the Lake Michig-an and Lake Superior 
Transportation Co. and the Northern Steamship Co. 
Also to Mr. Fred. B. Stimpson of Petoskey, Mr. W. O. 
Brunner of Grand Rapids, Mr. Thomas T. Bates of 
Traverse City, Mr. W. M. Spice of St. Ig-nace, for 
special favors rendered. 

The preparation of this Handbook, while an arduous 
has been a pleasant task. Our sincere wish is that it 
will be practically useful to the traveling- public and 
add something- to the pleasure and profit of a trip 
throug-h this delig-htful country. 




If 






INTRODUCTION. * 

¥¥¥ 

I. 
NORTHERN MICHIGAN. Geographical Situation. 

THE first impressions of Niagara Falls are those of 
awe-inspiring- g-randeur. One wishes to contem- 
plate in silence the sublime spectacle, all other thoughts 
being- overwhelmed by the majesty of that mig-hty 
cataract. Gradually, however, details beg-in to suggest 
themselves. The dizzy heig-ht, the deafening- thunder of 
those falling waters, the wildness of the gorge with its 
raging torrent, the power displayed. All these and 
more begin to make distinct impressions on the mind. 

Among these details nothing is more impressive 
than the sense of the immensity of that torrent. The 
mind tries in vain to estimate in gallons or in tons the 
quantity of water plunging incessantly over that preci- 
pice, and the question at once arises, where does it come 
from — this unfailing and exhaustless flood ? 

If, with this thought in mind, the reader will glance 
at any good map of North America, he will gain a new 
conception of the significance of Niagara Falls. He will 



^Several sections of this introduction do not concern the immediate needs of the 
traveler. They are written for the information of those who desire to know some- 
thing- of the g^eoloyic history and the g-eog-raphical sig-nificanceof the reg-ion the}' are 
about to visit, and may be omitted without impairing- the usefulness of the rest of 
the book. Yet it is hoped that most readers will find their perusal a pleasant and 
profitable employment for (juiet moments on steamboat or train when not employed 
in actual sig-ht-seeing-. 

11 



find that over its heig-hts sweep the waters of four great 
inland seas whose floods g-ather volume in ever increas- 
ing- ratio from the immense areag-e of which this system 
is the watershed. 

In the very center of these great waterways lies the 
region known as Northern Michig-an. Its position is 
strateg-ic and unique. One great peninsula pushes 
northward between Lakes Michig-an and Huron, blunt 
in form, 300 miles long- and 150 miles wide. Another 
great peninsala pushes eastward, long and narrow in 
form, between Lakes Michig-an and Superior, 300 miles 
long- and about 75 miles wide. At the point where 
these two peninsulas and three gTeat lakes meet, lies 
Mackinac Island, the g-eog-raphical and historic center of 
this wonderful country. 

II. 

THE GREAT LAKES, General Information. 

The four Great Lakes, Superior, Michig-an, Huron 
and Krie, whose waters pour over Niag-ara's precipice, 
embrace a mean shore line of 4,500 miles. The}^ drain 
and irrigate a country that may be roug-hl}^ estimated 
at 400 miles square. In this connection should be noted 
the remarkable fact that none of these lakes receives 
the waters of any g-reat river. In fact only a narrow 
fring-e of land separates them from the other g-reat 
waterways which touch them at every point. Immedi- 
ately to the northwest beg-ins the Saskatchewan system 
with its countless lakes and rivers pouring- into Hud- 
son's Bay and draining almost the whole Northwest 
Territory. To the west, and distant scarcely fifty miles, 
lies the Mississippi, draining even Minnesota, Wisconsin 

12 



and Illinois, althoug-h these states ag-greg-ate almost 
half of the coast area of the great lakes. The rivers of 
Indiana and Ohio flow southward to swell the Ohio 
river, itself a chief tributary to the Mississippi. While 
to the north the g-reat rivers of Canada flow, not into 
Lake Superior, but into Hudson's Bay. No rivers larg-er 
than the St. Joseph in Michig-an or the Nipig-on in 
Canada empty into the Great Lakes, but their vast 
sweep of drainag-e area contains countless small lakes 
and numberless little streams whose waters pour into 
these great inland seas. 

Lake Michig-an is 320 miles long-, 100 miles in width, 
and has a total area of 22,000 square miles. Lake 
Huron is 260 miles lon^, 160 miles in width, with an 
area of 24,400 square miles. These lakes have an equal 
elevation, being- 581 feet above the sea. Lake Erie lies 
about 8 feet below, while Lake Superior lies 20 feet 
above, being- 601 feet hig-her than the Atlantic Ocean. 
This matchless lake, the larg-est body of fresh water in 
the world, is 355 miles long-, 160 miles broad and has 
the immense area of 31,400 square miles. These g-reat 
fresh water basins, reaching- a depth of over 900 feet 
(the deepest sounding-s in Lake Superior show 1200 feet) 
have been literally carved out by various eroding- forces 
in the cycles of g-eolog-ical formation. The immense 
mass of sedimentary strata thus put in motion by the 
same forces, was g-radually deposited in "drifts" over a 
larg-e zone of the northern hemisphere. In the arrang-e- 
ment and rearrang-ement of this drift is found the 
problem of later g-eolog-ical formations and present sur- 
face conditions. 

These vast lakes add to their beaut}' of scenery, 
exhaustless water supply, immense fisheries and climatic 
influence, a commercial usefulness as hig-hways of 

13 



transportation which is beyond computation. They 
carry perhaps one-half the g-rain supply of the world. 
Across them is transported iron, copper, lumber and 
other products in quantities whose ag-g-regate sum the 
mind is unable to comprehend. They afford facilities 
for intercommunication which open doors of eas}' access 
to nearly half the continent. 

III. 
THE PENINSULAS OF MICHIGAN. Geological History. 

The two peninsulas of Michig-an form unique divid- 
ing barriers between three of these great lakes, like 
mighty wedges driven in between their rolling seas. 
These "wedges" have been the battlefield of many a 
geological period, the center of fiercest conflict between 
Nature's opposing forces. No one, therefore, can in- 
telligently traverse this country, so varied in formation 
and fascinating in contour, without some knowledge of 
its geological history ; and no account of this region 
would be complete without some resume of those primal, 
crucial, elements of world building whose sublime drama 
was enacted on these very shores. The writer there- 
fore ventures to narrate, in brief and simple outline, 
this geologic history including a section on present con- 
ditions and resources, which are but the result of 
formations whose beginnings reach back into the limit- 
less past. 

During those awful convulsions of Nature which 
mark the earliest (Archaean) period of earth formation 
the Laurentian Hills, which form the north shore of 
Lake Superior, w^ere thrown up — a part of that great 
backbone, which, in the form of a wide-angled V, ex- 
tended east and west from ocean to ocean across what 



14 



is now the center of North America, and which was 
all that then existed of this continent. These g-aunt 
and solemn Laurentian Hills have stood unmoved, un- 
chang-ed, through almost endless cycles of time, silent 
spectators of the building- of a continent. Michigan, 
with all the eastern states, was then the bed of a great 
arm of the sea whose flowing tides dashed against these 
rocks, now a part of the Canadian shores of Lake 
Superior. 

Then followed a period of land making, (1) by sub- 
sidence of the shallow sea; (2) by accumulating deposits 
of sediments; and (3) by internal disturbances and erup- 
tions. To the latter cause is due the g-reat copper and 
iron mines with the strange "pudding-stone'' formation 
of Keweenaw peninsula in upper Michig-an. To the 
other two causes are due the g*eneral conformation of 
lower Michigan and the great coal and salt measures 
which lie beneath its present surface. Michig-an was 
the last to reject the ocean, but finally the barrier was 
built and what was for long ages a great ocean bay now 
became an immense fresh water marsh, covered with 
dense veg^etation to be converted finally' into beds of 
bituminous coal. 

During- the long (Mesozoic) period which followed, 
the gradual process of rock formation was continued. 
The immense red sandstone quarries near Portage 
Canal, the lime formations of the Traverse and Macki- 
naw districts, rich in cretaceous fossils, and that peculiar 
soft rock out of which the waters carved, in later days, 
the far-famed Pictured Rocks of Lake Superior — all 
these belong to this period. While doubtless at this 
time there was the beginning of some g-reat depression 
running- along the St. Lawrence valley eastward to the 
sea, afterwards the channel of the St. Lawrence River, 

15 



yet the mind must continually force itself to realize that 
during" all these ages there were no oreat lakes nor any 
semblance of the?n^ but only vast stretches of Silurian 
and other deposits, the slow foundation-building- of our 
present surface superstructure. 

It remained for the fourth and last g-reat period 
(Cenozoic), to complete the formation as we have it now. 
The mighty glaciers of the ice age found their natural 
pathway across this region to the sea. They carved 
out our great fresh water basins like giant chisels, deep- 
ening depressions alread}^ begun, emphasizing the sharp 
distinctions between hard and soft stratafications and 
leaving on either side, in sublime confusion of moraines, 
those masses of drift deposits out of which the present 
topography of Michigan has emerged. After the 
glaciers, followed great flood periods, of which the 
Indians have legends, whose mighty tides washed shores 
that are now the tops of precipices, as at Mackinac 
Island, and formed those sweeping terraces which make 
the great plateaus of lower Northern Michigan. 

A profile of Michigan with elevations will be found 
on page 25. A study of this profile at this point will 
greatly assist the reader. 

IV. 

THE TOPOGRAPHY OF MICHIGAN. 

The present topography of Michigan may be 
summed up in a single paragraph. The great alluvial 
plain which sweeps northward from Ohio and embraces 
about two-thirds of lower Michigan, contains those 
rich clay deposits which give Michigan front rank in 
agricultural resources, and beneath which lie the gypsum 
beds of Grand Rapids, the coal measures of Jackson and 

lb 



the salt wells of Sag-inaw. Further northward a suc- 
cession of terraces sweeping- from east to west (see 
profile pag-e 25), marks the wash of a g-reater sea when 
Lakes Huron and Michig-an were one. The plateau 
which crowns these terraces was then an island, and the 
immense lime deposits of that Palaeozoic ag"e were laid 
there either in reg-ular strata of g-reat ledg-es such as 
are now quarried at Petoskey, or in permeations throug-h 
and throug-h the soil forming- the chemical basis of 
nourishment for the dense forests which afterwards 
covered this reg-ion. The coral formations of Traverse, 
the g-rotesque forms of cliffs at Mackinac Island and 
the Pictured Rocks, the silver and lead mines of 
Alg-omah near the Sault Ste. Marie River, the iron 
of Ishpeming- and the copper of Calumet, the ag-ates 
and pudding- stone and mass copper of Keweenaw, and 
silent over all the eternal Laurentian rocks of Lake 
Superior's northern shore, all these, in their turn, testify 
to the endless g-eolog-ic C3xles and fierce cataclysmic 
chang-es out of which this wondrous country had its 
birth. 

V. 
TRANSPORTATION FACILITIES. 

On account of its central location, its resources in 
lumber, ores and other commercial products and its 
charm as a place of resort. Northern Michig-an has been 
the center of active transportation operations for many 
years, while recent facilities for travel have been so in- 
creased as to secure to the tourist all that could be asked 
of speed, comfort and convenience. In the height of the 
summer season, however, all accommodations— whether 

B 17 



by rail or boat — are taxed to their utmost limit, and the 
traveler should not fail to make early choice of route 
and selection of berth or stateroom. So great a variety 
of routes are offered, and each includes so man}^ points 
or beauty and interest, that if possible the trip should 
be planned so as to come by one route and return by 
another. The added value and pleasure of the trip will 
more than repay the extra expense. 

Several trunk lines now run throug-h trains to all 
prominent points in Northern Michig-an. Reg-ular fares 
are computed at three cents a mile in lower Michig-an, 
and four cents a mile in the upper peninsula, but special 
excursion tickets may be secured to all points at g-reatly 
reduced rates (see schedule preceding- index). For details 
of arrival and departure of trains, boats, etc., the travel- 
er is referred to the time-tables and other helpful and 
attractive folders issued by the various transportation 
companies. Wood's Railway Guide, published monthly, 
is reliable and complete. 

VI. 
CLIMATE AND CLOTHING, 

The climate of Northern Michig-an is justly famed 
for its health-g-iving- properties. It is cool and bracing-, 
and while subject to the usual uncertainties of each sea- 
son, there are g-eneral conditions which are practically 
unvarying-. However warm it may be in the daytime it 
is always cool at nig-ht, so that the traveler should in- 
variably be supplied with wraps or light overcoat for 
evening- use, and ample bedding- should be provided for 
sleeping-, especially in summer cottag-es. Althoug-h 
there is a marked difference (from three to six deg-rees) 

18 



between the temperature inland and on the coast of the 
lakes, nevertheless those who are planning- to spend 
their time on inland lakes and awa}^ from coast breezes, 
should not neglect to provide both for cool evenings 
and sudden chang-es. 

A suit of not too light material, underwear of 
medium weight and good stout shoes will be found most 
serviceable for g-eneral use. 

VII. 

BAGGAGE, HOTEL LIFE, FEES. ETC, 

Complete arrangements are provided at all central 
points for the handling of bag-g^ag^e, both at docks, 
depots and hotels. Those who plan an extended stay 
in one place, especially if they expect to enter the social 
life of the more fashionable hotels and resorts, will 
need the same quantit}' and variety of clothing- as at 
home. But all others, especially those who are plan- 
ning- short stays in many places with any considerable 
amount of traveling-, will save trouble and expense by 
taking as little bagg-age as possible. 

Gratuities, fees, tips to waiters, hotel porters, etc., 
are not expected and should be indulg-ed in only in 
exceptional cases. Regular charg-es are made for all 
services rendered. There is little attempt at extortion 
and ordinary courtesy will invariably insure the traveler 
ever}' assistance he can reasonabl}^ expect. 

VIII. 

OUTDOOR AMUSEMENTS. 

Summer life in Northern Michig-an abounds in op- 
portunities for outdoor amusement. Tennis, golf and 

19 



kindred recreations are universal. Boating- in all forms 
is, of course, prominent, and good boats, both row and 
sail, ma}^ be rented at reasonable rates. Bathing- is a 
favorite pastime, especially on the inland lakes. In 
some places suits may be rented, but g-enerally it will 
be more satisfactory for those who intend to bathe to be 
provided with their own. 

The roads in Northern Michig-an are, for the most 
part, in fairly g-ood condition, and in many places 
line. Beautiful drives abound and g-ood liveries are to 
be found, even in small towns. 

To bicyclers we offer the following- sug-g-estions. 
While the roads are not all that could be desired, and in 
some places are entirely impracticable, still many quite 
extended tours can be comfortably made throug-h much 
charming and otherwise not accessible scenery. In 
places, notabh^ Mackinac Island, the roads are excep- 
tionally good. Those whose pastime is to be largely 
bicycling will do well to bring their own wheels, but 
bicycles can be rented in all the larger towns at reason- 
able rates. Roads available for wheeling will be noted 
in detail in connection with the town from which they 
lead. 

IX. 

CAMPING, FISHING, HUNTING. 

The immense virgin forests of Northern Michigan 
form one of its most attractive features. Nothing can 
exceed the exquisite sense of rest and delight which 
these forests bring to those weary and worn with the 
strain and tumult of life in a great city. No tourist 
will do justice to himself or his trip in this region with- 
out at least a taste of life in the woods and near to 



20 



Nature's heart. The g-reat trees, the g"entle murmur of 
the wind, the rich and beautiful carpeting- of mosses 
and wild flowers, the constantly chang-ing vistas and 
the restful quietness — all these and more combine to 
make such an experience rich in pleasure and profit, 
both to mind and body. 

The most practicable way to secure such a trip is to 
seek some one of the modest yet very comfortable little 
hotels or inns which may be found on many inland 
lakes. Rates are very reasonable, the traveler is saved 
much time, expense and annoyance incident to camping- 
out and has most of its advantag-es and charms. Those 
who desire the g-enuine experience, however, will readily 
find beautiful locations everywhere on which to pitch 
their tents. Of course camping- may be indulged in on 
almost any scale, but even in its most simple form the 
traveler is warned that there is but small economy and 
much hard work and annoyance. The writer is an ex- 
perienced camper and yields to none in his enthusiasm 
for this charming recreation, but deems it only his duty 
to speak from long experience this honest word of warn- 
ing, emphasized each year by a long list of bitter 
disappointments experienced by those who inconsider- 
ately rushed into "camping out" excursions. Favorable 
locations for camping abound everywhere and final 
selection can be best made by local inquiry. Outfits 
can be secured at the larger towns, but it would be bet- 
ter to make them up at home and ship direct to nearest 
points. Large parties are to be avoided, from six to 
eight being the maximum. Better make two entirely 
separate though neighboring camps, if a larger number 
is necessary. 

For life in the forest warm underwear and rough 
old clothes are desirable. Take nothing into camp, 

21 



especiall}' in the way of clothing-, 3^ou are not willing- to 
have spoiled or damaged. Waterproofs, rubbers and 
stout comfortable shoes are indispensable. A pair of 
slippers for evening- use "around camp" will be a g-reat 
comfort. These sug-g-estions apply equally to camping- 
out or boarding- at inns. In June and the first part of 
July the mosquitoes are a g-reat annoyance, but they 
beg-in to disappear about the middle of July. Various 
applications known as "mosquito dope" are on sale at 
drug- and hardware stores. They are hig-hly effective 
and should be secured without fail and freely used. 

Fishing- is the sport royal of Northern Michig-an. 
For years this reg-ion has been the paradise for the 
ardent disciple of Isaac Walton, and while there is little 
of what may be called "virg-in waters" strictlv speak- 
ing-, nevertheless it is certainly true that this reg-ion 
affords as fine sport for the fisherman as is readily 
accessible from any of our larg-e towns or cities. The 
very many streams and lakes available will be noted in 
detail in their proper places. 

Guides can be secured at from $1.00 to SI. 50 per 
day and are desirable, especially if the lake is not 
well understood. It will be found more satisfactory 
to remain in one place and "learn" the lake or stream 
than to g-o from place to place. In the long- run better 
catches will be made and more real sport enjoyed. 
Such a plan is more economical also, as in a short time 
the g-uide may be dispensed with. 

Good hunting- may also be enjoyed in season. 
Partridg-e, rabbit, fox, lynx, deer and bear are killed in 
larg-e numbers. We append a resume of the game laws 
of Michigan now in force. 



22 



GAME LAWS. 

Deek ma^' be killed from the 1st daj' of November to the 25th 
day of November, both inclusive, each year, in both peninsulas. 
Deer must not be killed or captured in the water, or by pit or 
tra.p, or by artificial light, or by use of a dog-. 

Non-residents who eng-ag-e in hunting- or killing- deer, shall 
be required to take out a license in the county where he proposes 
to hunt during- the open season; license fee, ^25. 

Residents of six months, who wish to hunt deer, shall take 
out a license from their county clerk, for which license they shall 
pay a fee of not more than 50 cents, such license to continue in 
force only for season issued. 

Not more than five deer may be killed by one person in any 
one year, and on an3' deer or part of deer shipped, shall be a 
coupon from said license, signed and detached by person to whom 
license is issued, in presence of shipping- ag^ent at point of ship- 
ment. 

Partridge (Ruffled Grouse), November 1st to December 15th 
inclusive. Upper Peninsula, October 1st to January 1st 
inclusive. 

Quail. November 1st to December 15th, inclusive. 

Woodcock. Aug-ust 15th to December 15th. 

Duck, Water Fowl, etc. Jacksnipe, red-head, blue-bill, 
canvas back, widg-eon and pin-tail ducks and wild g-eese may be 
killed between September 1st and Mav 1st. Other wild water 
fowl and snipe between September 1st and January 1st. 

Selling and Shipping Game. No person shall expose or 
keep for sale, directly or indirectly, sell or barter, any quail, 
woodcock or partridge in the State. Game cannot be shipped to 
points outside of State at any time. 



FISH LAWS. 

speckled trout, land locked salmon and g-rayling-, or Cali- 
fornia trout, may be caught May 1st to September 1st following. 

The killing- of fish by the use of dynainite or giant powder or 
any explosive, or the use of Indian cockle or any substance tend- 
ing- to stupefy the fish is unlawful. 

It is unlawful to spear any kind of fish, except mullet, grass 

23 



pike, red sides and suckers, during- the months of March, April, 
May and June in any of the inland waters of the State. 

It is unlawful to catch any fish excepting- mullet, red sides 
and suckers at any time in any of the inland waters of the State 
by the use of any kind of seines or nets. 

Bass, trout and grayling- must not be caug-ht in any way, at 
any time, except by hook and line in the inland waters of the 
State. 

It is not lawful to capture or have in possession any brook 
trout or g-rayling- less than six inches in leng-th. 

Streams in which trout and g-rayling- are not native, stocked 
with such fish, are protected by law three years after planting of 
such stream. 

It is unlawful to catch minnows for other purposes than for 
bait. 

It is unlawful to fish with a net within a radius of one hun- 
dred feet from any fish chute or ladder. 

It is unlawful to place in any stream, race or lake any kind 
of weir dam or any device which may obstruct the free passage 
of fish. 

The purchase, sale, carriage or possession of brook trout or 
grayling during the closed season is forbidden. 

The violation of the law is punishable by fine or imprison- 
ment. 




CRAND RAPIDS 



HOWARD CITY 
34 MILES. 



CADILLAC 

100 MILES. 



PETOSKEY,^ 

191 MILES. f 



MACKINAW CITY • 
230 MILES. 



-^^ 



?i 



EXPLANATORY NOTES 

to Pro tile on piPceiling page. 

Throug-h the kindness of Mr. Fred B. Stimson of the Grand 
Rapids & Indiana Railway, we are able to present our readers 
with a reduced profile of the lower peninsula, setting- forth the 
topog-raphy and elevations of Michig-an for 230 miles nearly due 
north and south from Grand Rapids to Mackinaw City, embrac- 
ing about two-thirds of the lower peninsula. This profile will 
illustrate the g-eneral topographical condition described in Sec- 
tions III and IV of Introduction. 

Beginning- with Grand Rapids we note in the smaller plateau 
the overlapping- of that vast alluviul plain which extends 
northward from Ohio and forms the great agricultural belt of 
Michigan. From this point a second g-reat plateau rises slowly 
to the top of Manton Hill, a distance of 110 miles, intersected at 
59 miles from Grand Rapids by the Muskeg-on river. This 
plateau reveals an intimate relation with the great flood periods 
when immense deposits of lime were, by later conditions, 
absorbed into the soil (rather than laid in reg-ular strata) to be- 
come the basis of nutriment for the dense and noble forests of 
pine and hardwood which have covered it. It maj- be known as 
the forest-belt of Michigan. It culminates in Manton Hill, 843 
feet above the level of I^ake Michig-an, the highest point of land, 
from which descent is made to the third plateau. 

The third plateau, reaching from Manton Hill to Bonnie Hill, 
represents in its general conditions the same characteristics as 
that of the second plateau, with this exception, that, being sub- 
jected to severer action of the floods, its coast became more indented 
(e. g. the Grand Traverse Bay), its surface more rugged and un- 
even. Here, therefore, we find great numbers of inland lakes 
and small streams, as well as fine forests and abundant lime- 
stone formations It culminates in Boyne Hill, 630 feet above 
the level of Lake Michigan, from which rapid descent is made to 
the fourth plateau. 

The fourth plateau, extending from the foot of Boyne Hill 
to Mackinaw City, represents that section which was last to 
reject the water, retaining most of the characteristics of the 
two previous plateaus, but which, being subjected to even severer 
action in the rush of waters, shows formations naturally follow- 
ing such conditions, culminating in the lime deposits of Petoskey, 
the coral laid bare along this coast, and the picturesque water- 
wear of Mackinac Island, and St. Ignace on the opposite sides 
of the Straits. 26 



PART L 

ROUTES TO NORTHERN MICHIGAN. 

Northern Michig-an ma}' be reached both by rail 
and steamboat from all directions. Three great lines 
of railway, Chicago & West Michigan, Grand Rapids & 
Indiana (Penns^'lvania Central S^'stem) and Michigan 
Central run through trains to its resorts, and steamboat 
lines on all the great lakes make regular and frequent 
trips. A brief description of the various routes is here 
ofiven, as being of interest and value to the traveler. 
Chicago, Grand Rapids and Detroit are chosen for the 
sake of convenience, as the points of departure. 

1. From Chicago to Grand Rapids, 

a. Via Chicago & West Michigan Railway. 

181 miles; time 5^4 hours. 

Chicago — Population 1,500,000, the second city of 
America and one of the great cities of the world, the 
center of immense commercial interests and the seat of 
several universities. Though only sixty years old, and 
in 1870 almost totally destroyed by fire, this city has had 
such phenomenal growth as to place it in the front rank 
and to make it" in some respects the foremost city in the 
world. For details the traveler is referred to special 
guide books to be had at all news stands and book stores. 

The Chicago & West Michigan Railway starts from 
the Illinois Central depot on the lake front at Park Row. 

27 



Wabash Ave. and State St. cable cars run to Park Row 
and within a short distance of the station. The depot 
is a mag-nificent structure, commanding- a fine view, and 
containing- one of the finest waiting- rooms in the 
world. It was built in 1893 at a cost of over a million 
dollars. The Illinois Central, Michig-an Central and 
Chicag-o & West Michig-an Railways center here. 

The train passes swiftly over the tracks of the 
Illinois Central to Kensing-ton (13 miles) close to the 
shore of Lake Michigan. Four miles out may be seen the 
"crib" that marks the mouth of the g-reat tunnel which 
affords the south side water supply of Chicag-o. On the 
rig-ht we are passing- throug-h one of the most beautiful 
residence portions of the city, stopping- for a moment at 
Hyde Park (5 miles), the location of the Chicag-o 
University, and ag-ain at Woodlawn Park, 63rd street, 
(7 miles) the terminus of the south side elevated railway. 
Between Hyde Park and Woodlawn the train passes 
close (on the left) to the grounds of the Columbian Ex- 
position, now a public park, part of beautiful Jackson 
Park. Many of the exposition building-s are still stand- 
ing-, being- used for museums and other purposes. 

Pullman (15 miles) — -The extensive works of the 
Pullman Palace Car Co. are located here in full view of 
the train on the left. The town of Pullman affords an 
interesting- study as a sociolog-ical experiment. A brief 
visit is well worth time and attention. 

Hammond (20 miles) — The extensive stock yards 
and meat packing works of the Hammond Packing Co. 
may be seen on the left. 

The train now speeds over a level and comparatively 
uninteresting country on the main line of the Michigan 
Central Railway, leaving Illinois and entering Indiana, 
whose southwest extremity it traverses for a little time, 

28 



reaching- Michigan City (58 miles), an important railway 
center with a little stream which affords a harbor for 
small boats. Here we catch a glimpse of Lake Michi- 
g-an between the great sand-dunes or drift hills of sand. 
These shifting sand hills in their structure and varia- 
tions form a most interesting study. 

New Buffalo (68 miles) — At this point we reach 
the Chicago & West Michigan road proper. The town 
itself is uninteresting, the stop being made onl}^ long 
enough to change engines. 

We now, proceeding northward, enter the famous 
"fruit belt" of Michigan. On both sides may be seen 
great helds of small fruits, strawberries, raspberries, 
blackberries, etc., with miles of orchards, peaches, 
apples and pears, and vineyards, all in fine cultivation, 
until at last we reach the shipping center of it all, St. 
Joseph. 

St. Joseph (93 miles,) population 5000, situated at 
the mouth of the St. Joseph river. A long sand}^ beach 
stretches back from the water's edge for several hundred 
yards and is crowned by a bold bluff of sand along the 
edge of which is a driveway and park. Many beautiful 
views are to be enjo^^ed and "St. Joe" is fast becoming 
popular as a resort. Immense quantities of fruit are 
shipped annually from this port. 

The St. Joseph river is pretty and is navigable for 
a number of miles to Berrien Springs. A number of 
pleasant summer hotels and boarding houses are found 
upon its banks. Steamers make regular daily trips, 
stopping- at all the various "landings" en route. 

The train, resuming the journe3% crosses immedi- 
atel}' the St. Joseph river to Benton Harbor on the 

29 



opposite bank, then it continues throug-h the fruit belt 
and some of the linest farming- country in Michigan, to 
Holland. 



^'H^"^ 




Holland (157 miles), population 8,000, one of the 
earliest Dutch settlements in Michig-an, was founded by 
Albertus C. Von Raalte, "Dominie," in 1847. It is the 
seat of a Dutch Reform Colleg-e and Theolog-ical Semi- 
nar}^ with 200 students, and is a sturdy, thriving- 
agricultural center. It is situated on the Black River 
which flows into Lake Michig-an six miles west. At the 
mouth of the river are situated two resorts, Macatawa 
Park (south side), Ottawa Beach (north side). These 
resorts are popular and are reached by steam ferry boat 

30 



from Holland or by a branch of railway from Waverly. 
Pleasant accommodations can be secured at reasonable 
rates. 

The journey continues throug-h an ag-ricultural 
country similar to that already described, passing- no 
points of special interest to Grand Rapids (179 miles). 

Grand Rapids — Population 100,000, one of the 
larg-est and most beautiful cities in Michig-an, as well 
as one of the oldest. It was incorporated as a villag-e in 
1838 and as a city in 1850. It is situated in the beauti- 
ful valley of the Grand River, a stream of fair size and 
considerable importance both for navig-ation and water 
power, having- a fall at Grand Rapids of eig-hteen feet. 
The city rises in tine elevations above the river. The 
streets are remarkably fine and abundantly supplied 
with beautiful shade trees and lined with handsome 
residences. A g-reat deal of civic pride and enterprise 
has been shown, so that it stands in the front rank of 
modern municipal org-anizations. 

Grand Rapids is pre-eminent for its manufacture of 
furniture, there being- no less than 30 larg-e firms en- 
g-ag-ed in this enterprise. It makes some of the finest 
furniture in the world, and has, in this respect, a more 
than national reputation. The value of these manufac- 
tories in 1890 was over twenty million dollars. 

Grand Rapids also has extensive g-ypsum beds. A 
visit to the g-ypsum "mines" will be found very interest- 
ing- and can be easih' made. The mines or quarries of 
the Grand Rapids Plaster Co. are commended, as the 
gypsum is here mined by driving- subterranean g-alleries 
into the bluff. Some of the color formations of the 
g-3^psum are ver}^ beautiful. Gypsum is a mineral sub- 
stance (hydrated sulphate of lime) valuable for alabaster, 
plaster of Paris (so called because of the celebrated 

31 



quarries at Mont Martre near Paris) and in ag-riculture 
for fertilizer. The alabaster qualities of the Grand 
Rapids g-ypsum are limited, but for all other purposes 
it is very valuable. The beds cover a rang-e of from six 
to eight square miles in this vicinity and the supply is 
practically inexhaustible. Gypsum is found also in 
many other places in Michig-an, especially in conjunc- 
tion with salt deposits, but in smaller quantities. 
Geolog-ically it belong-s to the early Tertiary period. 

b. Via Grand Rapids & Indiana Railway. 

Grand Trunk Railway to Vicksburg-. 
212 miles; time (y^i hours. 

According- to recent arrang-ements the Grand Rapids 
& Indiana trains now leave Chicag-o from the Polk street 
depot (State street car to Polk street, half block from 
depot). Leaving- the depot the train soon crosses the 
state line into Indiana and traverses a rich agricultural 
district, passing en route the considerable cities of 
LaPorte and South Bend. The latter city is world 
famous for its manufactories of vehicles and agricul- 
tural implements. 

Running northeast from South Bend the train 
enters Michigan near Cassopolis (122 miles) and reaches 
Vicksburg (151 miles) where it leaves the Grand Trunk 
Railway for the main line of the Grand Rapids & 
Indiana R. R. Thence it proceeds due north reaching 
Kalamazoo (163 miles). 

KAI.AMAZOO (163 miles), population 21,000, one of 
the most beautiful cities in Michigan. It abounds in 
fine residences and churches, it is the center of many 
important manufactures — especially buggies — is the seat 
of a Baptist College and Presbyterian Ladies Seminary, 

32 



both of hig-h reputation. Kalamazoo is also famous for 
its celery, the soil of that reg-ion being- especiall}' 
adapted to the raising- of this table delicacy. The 
g-rowth is luxuriant and is unsurpassed in flavor and 
richness. One of the noted Insane Asylums of the 
world is located here, a state institution with propert}^ 
valued at one million dollars, caring- for nearh' 12(X) 
inmates and emplo34ng- seven medical attendants with 
229 employes. Here the Grand Rapids & Indiana Rail- 
way crosses the Michig-an Central R. R. Leaving- 
Kalamazoo the road lies throug-h a charming- ag-ricul- 
tural country to Grand Rapids (180 miles). For Grand 
Rapids see pag-e 31. 

IL From Detroit to Grand Rapids. 

Travelers entering- Michig-an at Detroit or adjacent 
points, may take a route direct to Mackinaw City via 
the Michig-an Central Railway, 291 miles, (see pag-e 44) 
or may g-o to Grand Rapids and thence north, 379 miles. 
The latter is long-er but has this advantag-e that it 
enters the resort reg-ion at its southern extremity, thus 
traversing- en route much of the territory that would 
have to be afterwards reached should the traveler g-o 
direct to Mackinaw. 

a. Via Grand Rapids & Western. 

153 miles; time 4 hours. 

Leaving- Detroit from the line Union Depot on Fort 
street, the train moves rapidly westward across a typical 
ag-ricultural country, passing- no places of special in- 
terest until Lansing- is reached. 

Lansing (88 miles), population 16,000, a pleasant 
city, the capital of the state and seat of several state 

C 33 



institutions, chief!}' the Agricultural College, the Boys' 
Industrial School and the Michig-an School for the 
Blind. The conspicuous dome of the capitol building- 
may be readih' seen from the car window. The rest of 
the journey is uneventful and in one and a half hours 
(153 miles) Grand Rapids is reached. See page 31. 

b- Via Detroit, Grand Haven & Milwaukee R. R. 

158 miles ; time 6 hours. 

Leaving Detroit the journey is through an agricul- 
tural country all the wa3^ 

PoNTiAC (26 miles), population 7,500, location of the 
Eastern Michigan Asylum for the Insane, an institution 
having a national reputation. 

DuRAND (67 miles), the junction point for several 
lines of railroad, but otherwise unimportant. 

Ionia (124 miles), population 5,000, the location of 
the Michigan Asylum for Dangerous and Criminal In- 
sane. 

Gkand Rapids (158 miles). See page 31. 

' Other Routes. 

Other though less usual northern routes should also 
be noted. The Michigan Central runs from Detroit to 
Grand Rapids via Jackson, 170 miles, 73^ hours. The 
night train on this route will often be found of special 
convenience to westbound travelers. The Flint & 
Pere Marquette Railway from Toledo via Detroit, 
Flint, Saginaw, Reed City (where it connects with the 
Cxrand Rapids & Indiana Railway), Baldwin (where it 
connects with the Chicago & West Michigan R. R. ) to 
Ludington. The Ann Arbor Railway from Toledo via 
Ann Arbor, Durand, Cadillac, (connecting here with the 
Grand Rapids & Indiana Railway see page 37), Thomp- 
sonville (where it connects with the Chicago & West 
Michigan R. R.) to Frankfort (see page 51). 

34 



IIL From Grand Rapids to Traverse City, Petoskey 
L Mackinaw City, 

o. Via Grand Rapids & Indiana Railway. 

To Petoskey, 190 miles, time 6>4 hours. 

To Traverse Cit3% 145 miles, time S}{ hours. 

Leaving- Grand Rapids, the train almost immediate- 
ly crosses the wide and rapid Grand River, skirts the 
city, crosses (3 miles) the Detroit, Grand Haven & Mil- 
waukee R. R. and five minutes later passes on the rig-ht 
the extensive building-s of the fair grounds, passing- en 
route numerous larg-e furniture factories, the chief in- 
dustry of this busy city. The train now follows closely 
the banks of the Grand River, affording- numerous 
pretty vistas, to Belmont (10 miles), and crossing- the 
Rog-ue River at Rockford, journe3^s throug-h the well 
cultivated ag-ricultural reg-ion to Howard City (34 miles). 

At this point we enter the famous pine belt of 
Michig-an. This whole reg-ion is the scene of the 
earliest of those g-reat lumber enterprises which g-ave 
such impetus to the development of Michig-an — indeed 
the whole northwest. The traveler will note with in- 
terest the fields of stumps, even 3'et incredibly thick, 
althoug-h many of them have been removed, which bear 
witness to the mig-hty forests of which they are the 
desolate remains. Great branching- roots are piled up 
in stump fences about occasional clearing-s which, with 
the crude homesteader's "shanty" in the midst affords 
a unique picture of pioneer life — a picture which will 
not soon be forg-otten by those who thus witness it for 
the first time. Numerous small towns with unpainted 
houses and inevitable little saw mill, are passed, and if 



the train stops interesting- "studies'' may be enjoyed of 
the various t3^pes of settlers that invariably g-ather at 
the depots to "see the train come in." 

At Morley (41 miles) a small branch of the Muske- 
g-on is crossed. At Big- Rapids (56 miles) a considerable 
town and the junction of the Detroit, Grand Rapids & 
Western Railway, the train crosses the Muskeg-on 
proper at about the center of its course. This river is 
one of the most important streams of Michig-an. Tak- 
ing- its rise in Hig-g-ins Lake, 50 miles northeast of Big- 
Rapids, it flows southwest to Muskeg-on and empties 
there into Lake Michig-an. Thus as the bird flies it 
covers a course of over a hundred miles, but with its 
numerous bends and turns it has an actual course of 
fully twice that distance, and throug-h the heart of a 
rich lumber district. It has, therefore, had an invalu- 
able commercial importance, and the passing traveler 
hardly realizes the immense money value of the log's 
which have been floated on its waters to the g-reat saw 
mills of Muskeg-on (see last parag-raphs, pag-e 37). 

The train follows the river for several miles, pass- 
ing- at Paris (62 miles) on the left the pretty State Fish 
Hatchery where brook trout are "raised" for stocking- 
the streams. P^urther on Reed City (69 miles) is reached, 
the junction with the Flint & Pere Marquette Railway 
(see page 34). The train now passes through a rough, 
uncultivated region of no special interest to the traveler, 
except as a type of pioneer country just emerging from 
its wilderness state into a condition of semi-cultivation. 
A number of very small hamlets are passed. The train 
reaches and skirts the shores of Clam Lake and stops at 
the largest and most important city thus far, Cadillac, 
(98 miles). 



36 



Cadillac, a busy city of 8000 inhabitants, situated 
o-n the eastern shore of Little Clam Lake, a small but 
deep lake, two and a half miles lon^, connected by a 
short channel with the larg-er Clam Lake lying- directh^ 
w^est. Cadillac is situated in the center of one of the 
richest tracts of pine ever known in the world, and has 
been the basis of lumber operations of g-reat mag-nitude 
for more than twent}- years. 

Its larg-e saw mills are still bus}^ althoug-h by far 
the g-reater part of the pine has been cut and much of 
the outlaying- reg-ion is now a desolate waste. Accord- 
ing^ to conservative estimates not more than 1,500,000 
feet remains to be converted into lumber, a "cut" of less 
than live years. Immense tracts of virg-in hardwood 
forests are, however, adjacent, and arrang-ements are 
being- rapidh^ made to commence the manufacture of 
hardwood lumber. A line boulevard has recenth^ been 
constructed around the lake (8V2 miles) and much civic 
enterprise is manifest. 

The following- statistics, furnished by courtesy of 
W. W. Mitchell, Esq., of Cadillac, will g-ive some idea 
of the mag-nitude of lumber operations in this western 
section of Michig-an. 

During- the last twenty-live years there has been 
manufactured in Muskeg-on, 10,040,670,506 feet; in 
Manistee, 5,498,228,666 feet; in Cadillac, 1,190,231,000 
feet. The money value of this enormous amount may 
be easily computed by multiplying- the above lig-ures by 
four, "assuming that the averag-e value of the timber 
standing- during this period would rang-e about $4.00 per 
thousand feet in the tree." Of course the manufactured 
product as it leaves the mill is worth from two to five 
times that amount. 

This reg-ion was evidently a favorite rendezvous for 

37 



the Indians of prehistoric times. Along- the shores of 
the lake are found numerous mounds, many of which 
have been excavated and much material of archeological 
value discovered. Those interested in this subject may 
correspond with Mr. Charles Manktellow of Cadillac, 
whose enthusiastic and painstaking- researches along 
this line have resulted in "finds" of real value and im- 
portance. 

Leaving Cadillac the train winding- along- hig-h 
ridg-es and rounding sharp curves, affords a g-ood view 
of the great pine barrens, which it almost immedi- 
ately enters. Four miles north is the small junction, 
Missaukee, of a branch running- to Lake City, a distance 
of 15 miles, and throug-h an unbroken stretch of 
"barrens" as far as the eye can see on either side. For 
miles and miles this desolate wilderness of stumps 
stretches on either side with gaunt bare pine "stubs" 
sprinkled among- them and decaying- log-s scattered in 
wild confusion everywhere. The stubby underg-rowth 
of oak and poplar adds to, rather than relieves, the 
desolateness. 

Passing- throug-h a country broken into billowy hills 
and ridg-es with sharp ravines, at six and a half miles 
from Cadillac the highest point of railroad land in 
Michigan is reached, known as Man ton Hill, 832^ feet 
above Lake Michigan. Here the road descends rapidly 
477 feet in eleven miles to Manton and soon crosses the 
Manistee River. This is another of the notable streams 
of Michigan, over a hundred miles long and draining, 
with its tributaries, a large area. Down its currents 
also have been floated billions of feet of logs to be 
sawed into lumber at Manistee, which is situated at its 
mouth on the shores of Lake Michigan. A little later 
Walton Junction (119 miles) is reached. 

38 



From Walton Junction a branch road runs 26 miles 
to Traverse Cit}^ with usually, in the summer time, 
throug-h cars from Grand Rapids. The journey is 
throug-h a country very similar to that already described. 
For Traverse City see pag-e 57. 




Continuing- along- the main line, the train, emerg-- 
ing- from the forest, skirts the pretty shores of Fife 
Lake, and passing- Fife Lake station (124 miles) crosses 
the south branch of the Boardman River at South 
Boardman. This river is famous as a trout stream. 

The district now traversed consists of an extensive 
plain of jack pine, a small scrubby pine of rather pic- 
turesque appearance, but not commercially useful. 
Botanists will find this reg-ion of unique interest and a 
day may be very pleasantly spent in rambling- among- 



39 



these dwarf trees at Kalkaska (138 miles), situated in 
the center of this reg-ion, a pleasant stopping- place with 
a g-ood hotel. 

The road now rises steadily and sweeps through 
noble forests of elm, beech and maple which densel}^ 
cover this gfreat plateau. At Antrim (150 miles) an im- 
mense smelting- works or "blast furnace" is passed, 
where iron ore from upper Michig-an is converted into 
pig- iron for commercial uses. The furnace is located 
here on account of the quantity of fire wood obtainable 
for burning-, g-reat fields of which, corded up, may be 
seen close by. A little further on is Mancelona (151 
miles), one of the busiest towns between Cadillac and 
Petoskey. 

The journey continues throug-h almost unbroken 
forest, passing- Alba with its charcoal kilns, and eig-ht 
miles further on, at Elmira (166 miles), reaching- the 
crest of another g-reat ridg-e 663 feet above the level of 
Lake Michig-an. Here beg-ins a very rapid descent, the 
road g-rade having- a fall of 572 feet in ten miles. In 
this distance twenty-one curves, ag-g-reg-ating- 824° of 
curvature and 4H miles, are made and it is interesting- 
to watch the descent from the rear end of the train. 

Descending- the Elmira hill, the train enters the 
beautiful Boyne River valley. The hills slope abruptly 
down on either side covered with a noble forest, said to 
be the finest tract of hardwood in Michig-an, whose 
g-reatest beauty is in the fall when the autumn colors 
are on. Boyne Falls is soon reached, where a little 
lumber railroad runs to Boyne City. For Boyne City 
see Part III, Sec. 2 Boyne Falls aifords fine trout fish- 
ing. The Boyne River may also be reached from Boyne 
City. 

The train now crosses a larg-e and dense swamp of 

40 



tamarack and cedar, passing- (7 miles) Bear Lake Junc- 
tion, (see Part III, Sec 6). Saw mills are noted here 
and there. One of these mills finds sufficient cedar ad- 
jacent to produce twenty million shing-les a year for 
twenty years. The little town of Clarion is passed, 
the grade rises steadily and soon Petoskey (191 miles) 
is reached. 

For the journey from Petoskey to Mackinaw see 
Part III, Sec. 6. 

b- Via Chicago & West IVIichigan Railway to Traverse City. 

145 miles, 4 hours. 

Leaving- the Union Depot at Grand Rapids, the 
train skirts the city northward to the Detroit, Grand 
Haven & Milwaukee Junction (3 miles), with g-ood 
views of the city en route. At 5 miles Mill Creek is 
passed, with the extensive fair g-rounds of the Michig-an 
State Fair Association, and a little further on the rig-ht 
side the State Fish Hatchery, where black bass are 
raised for stocking- the various lakes. 

The route now lies throug-h one of the famous fruit 
belts of Michig-an, passing- several prosperous towns, 
among- these Sparta (15 miles) and Casnovia (22 miles). 
The latter town may be called the center of this fruit 
belt, larg-e shipments of fruit— especially peaches— be- 
ing- made from this place each season. 

The next stop of importance is Newayg-o (36 miles). 
Just before reaching- Newayg-o we cross the Muskeg-on 
River, one of the most important streams in Michig-an. 
(See pag-e 36). Newayg-o is a busy little town, a center 
of ag-ricultural and lumbering- pursuits. 

Eleven miles further on is White Cloud (47 miles) 
on the White River, a junction point with a well known 



41 



eating- house. Trains usually stop twenty minutes for 
refreshment. Famous brook trout is served here in 
season. 

Leaving- White Cloud, the route lies for the most 
part throug-h a wild and unsettled country. Here and 
there will be noted the roug-h "clearing-s'' of the pioneer 
farmer. Great patches of forest and wide stretches of 
pine barrens are interspersed with little lakes and brawl- 
ing streams whose waters afford splendid sport for the 
fisherman and the hunter. 

At Roby's Tank, two and a half miles south of 
Baldwin and 73 miles from Grand Rapids, the Mar- 
quette River is crossed. This is a well known trout 
stream where the beautiful "rainbow trout'' are found. 
The Club House situated here is open to the public and 
furnishes pleasant accommodations. 

Baldwin (75 miles) is the junction point with the 
Flint & Pere Marquette R. R. From this point many 
fine trout streams ma}^ be be reached. 

Eight miles north of Baldwin the train reaches the 
crest of Conley hill. From this point a superb view is 
secured. Following for several moments the crest of 
the hill or bluff, we look eastward over the tops of great 
trees away across the country for fifteen miles or more. 
The dense forests with their varied foliage, the fine 
prospect with its wide sweep of horizon afford a beauti- 
ful view. No better illustration can be had of the 
plateau-like conformation of the topography of Michigan. 
See Introduction, Sec. HI and IV, also "Profile, "page 25. 

Two miles further on we reach Canfield, crossing a 
short railroad that extends to Luther, and three miles 
north of Canfield the train crosses the Little Manistee 
River. This is another famous trout stream, 13 miles 
from Baldwin, 88 miles from Grand Rapids. Good 

42 



accommodations may be had here and fine fishing-. 
Trains stop at all these streams and the accommodations 
preserve a remarkably hig-h av^erag-e. 

Eig-ht miles from this point the top of Norway Hill 
is reached. Descending- this, the train passes for a 
short distance throug-h a dense strip of Norway pine, 
g-iving- the traveler beautiful g-limpses of the forest 
vistas formed by this noble and g-raceful tree. At the 
foot of Norway Hill we pass Wellston, the site of an old 
lumber camp, and a little further on Boyne River is 
crossed, with g-ood fishing- and g-ood accommodations. 

Six miles further on we reach the hig-h and pic- 
turesque banks of the Manistee River, another of the 
famous lumber streams of Michig-an (see pag-e 38). This 
river is crossed by an immense steel bridge. It is 1170 
feet long-, 90 feet hig-h, and was built at a cost of 
S125,000.00. 

The next stop is at Manistee Crossing (110 miles) 
where the Manistee and Northeastern R. R. crosses the 
Chicago & West Michigan Railway. 

Entering a dense forest, the train crosses (5 miles) 
Bear River. Here, in the very heart of the woods, is a 
pleasant little hotel on the banks of the stream where 
again good fishing ma}" be enjoyed. 

Be^'ond this is Henr3^ the junction point with the 
"Betsy River and Arcadia R. R.," a logging railroad 
that reaches far into the forest. Then we pass the 
large charcoal kilns known as Desmonds, and one mile 
further on reach Thompsonville, a t3"pical northern 
lumber village. Two and a half miles north of Thomp- 
sonville we cross the Betsy River. Good fishing. Then 
Wallin is passed, with its charcoal kilns, Clar}" with its 
stave mills, and Interlochen, all small lumber towns. 

We are now fourteen miles from Traverse City. 



43 



Passing- Bietner's we cross the Boardman River at Sabin, 
where is fine water power. The Traverse City Electric 
Light plant is located here. Good fishing-. Later (141 
miles) we reach Traverse Cit}^ and find ourselves in the 
heart of the beautiful resort reg-ion of Michig-an. For 
Traverse City see pag-e 57 and for continuation of this 
route to Petoskey and Ba}^ View see Part XL Sec. 4. 

IV — From Detroit to Bay City, Cheboygan and 
Mackinaw City. 

Via Michigan Central. 

2^)0 miles; time, 11 hours. 

Travelers from Detroit will find it sometimes con- 
venient to take the Michig-an Central route to Mackinaw. 
The journey is throug-h a country of little interest in 
scenic beauty; the nig-ht train, therefore, is most desir- 
able. No cities of importance are passed, except Sag-i- 
naw and Bay City, both larg-e lumbering- and mercantile 
centers. 

Leaving- Bay Cit}^ (108 miles) the train enters what 
was once one of the famous Michig-an lumber belts, 
althoug-h now by far the larg-er part has been cut. 

Grayling- (200 miles) was famous as a fishing- reg-ion, 
but has lost its popularity in recent years. 

At Indian River (256 miles) the road enters the re- 
sort reg-ion proper, skirting- the beautiful shores of 
Mullet Lake for several miles, with stations at Topin- 
bee (262 miles). Mullet Lake (268 miles) and Chebog-an 
(274 miles). For particulars of these beautiful resorts 
see Part III, Sec. 6. Thence the road runs through dense 
forests of spruce, tamarack, hemlock and poplar to 
Mackinaw City (290 miles). For Mackinaw City see 
Part IV. 



^ 



BY STEAMER. 

Northern Michig-an ma^^ also be reached by steamer 
direct from Chicag-o or Detroit. To many the novelt}' 
and charm of a trip on the Great Lakes is the crowning- 
^ / pleasure of a summer tour. De- 

spite that bele noire of water 
travel, seasickness, there is a 
charm, restfulness and invig-ora- 
tion about such a voyag-e which 
appeals strongly to most tour- 
ists. Facilities of steamboat 
transportation are now so com- 
plete and perfect as to afford the 
hig-hest deg-ree of comfort, safety 
and pleasure. To those who en- 
joy the water and can spare the 
time (from twice to three times 
that required by rail) a voyag-e 
on the Great Lakes is strong-ly 
re : mmended. Warm wraps and 
overcoat should never be neg-lected. In the heig-ht of 
the season staterooms must be eng-ag-ed several da3^s, if 
not weeks, ahead. 

I — From Chicago to Mackinac, 

Two lines of steamers make regular trips between 
Chicago and Mackinac Island. The differences between 
them are so marked that they may be clearly stated 
without danger of invidious comparison. The Lake 
Michigan and Lake Superior Transportation Co. has in 
service the magnificent and palatial steamer Manitou. 
It is large, swift, and elegant in its appointments. It 
stops only at Charlevoix, Harbor Springs (passengers 
for Petoskey, 5 miles, are transferred here) and Mackinac 




46 



Island, and makes the trip in a little over twenty- 
four hours. The fare is S5.00, with meals, (served a la 
carte and with g-reat elegance) and stateroom extra. 

The Northern Michig-an Line has in service two 
steamboats, the Petoskev and the Charlevoix. These 
boats have long- been favorites. They have neither the 
speed nor eleg-ance of the Manitou, but are very com- 
fortable and less expensive. The fare is S7.00, meals 
and berth included. The service is plain and unpreten- 
tious. These boats make several stops en route, viz : 
Luding-ton, Manistee, Frankfort, Traverse City, Charle- 
voix, Petoskey, Harbor Spring-s and Mackinac Island. 
While this consumes much more time — about forty 
hours — it affords an opportunity to see much that is 
beautiful and interesting- of Michig-an coast scenery. 

a- Via Lake Michigan and Lake Superior Transportation 
Company. 

Passeng-ers via the steamship Manitou steer their 
course directly up the lake and soon lose sig-ht of 
land, which is not g-ained ag-ain until the Manitou Islands 
are sig-hted off the entrance to Grand Traverse Bay (see 
pag-e 51). Further on north (30 miles) the Beavers are 
occasionally sig-hted. (See Part III, Sec. 2.) The 
course is now eastward to Charlevoix, where the first 
stop is made. The entrance to Charlevoix harbor, 
Round Lake, is both interesting- and picturesque and 
should not be missed, even thoug-h it requires early 
rising- to see it. Nothing can exceed the almost fairy- 
like beaut}^ of this exquisite harbor, and the first im- 
pressions, as the stately boat passing through the narrow 
river sweeps about in beautiful Round Lake, will never 
be forgotten. For further description of Charlevoix, 
see Part III. 

47 



The passag-e to the open sea is then retraced and 
entering- Little Traverse Bay the course is taken almost 
due east to Harbor Springs. Land is in sight on both 
sides, the shore rising in a series of beautiful, sweeping 
terraces, covered with dense forests, and reaching back 
to the blue distant hills. Little Traverse Bay is about 
ten miles long and live miles wide. It narrows at the 
end, to three miles, in a stately sweeping shore which 
rises in beautiful terraces from the bluff 100 feet high, 
like a great amphitheatre, and presents a scene of re- 
markable beauty. The deep blue, green and purple 
coloring of the water is fringed by snow-white lines of 
surf. Beyond gleams a beautiful white beach of sand 
or pebbles above which rise in many places sheer lime- 
stone bluffs bold and dark; then the land sweeps back in 
wide plateaus where dense forests contrast sharply with 
well-cultivated farms, the whole crowned by an impos- 
ing panorama of Petoskey and Bay View. Almost 
immediately the steamer enters the beautiful harbor. 
A long, narrow peninsula juts out into the lake inclos- 
ing a little bay, beyond which nestles Harbor Springs. 
This peninsula of singular beauty, is studded with fine 
summer homes with a picturesque 
little red brick lighthouse on the 
tip of the 
point. The 
wa ter is 
very deep 
close to the 
shore, so 
that the 
..-■•■ larg es t 

steamer s 
sail within easy hailing distance of the- lighthouse. 

48 




The harbor is practicall}^ land-locked and is exquisitel}' 
beautiful. Beyond the stretch of summer cottages lies 
the villag-e, behind which rises an imposing- wooded 
bluif full}^ 75 feet high. The whole effect is indescrib- 
ably beautiful and the view from the steamer is onh^ 
surpassed by the magnificent view secured from the 
bluff itself. (See Part III, Sec. 4.) Even if no longer 
sta}' is made, passengers shuld certainly not fail to 
climb the bluff. Conveyances at the dock may be 
secured for a very reasonable sum, and half an hour 
will be ample time for the round trip. The view thus 
enjoyed will never be forgotten. For details of Little 
Traverse Ba}^ with map, see Part III. 

Leaving Harbor Springs the steamer retraces its 
course out of Little Traverse Bay, and bearing to the 
north, rounds "Nine Mile Point;" thence northward to 
the entrance of the Straits of Mackinac. On the risfht 

the shore line stands 
out in bold relief with 
high bluffs and gleam- 
ing beach of golden 
sand. The early and 
romantic settlement 
known as Cross Village 
may sometimes be dis- 
covered in the distance 
(about 25 miles by 
water from Harbor 
Springs, see Part III, 
Sec. 5) and beyond (15 
miles) the long, low 
peninsula which guards the] entrance to the Straits 
known as Waugoschance Point, with its reefs and tiny 
archipelago. To the left (but sometimes the steamers 

49 




clear this point far to the rig-ht) the little Isle Aux 
Galets (Flat-rock Island) appears with its tall lig-hthouse, 
which the natives pronounce "Skilly-g"a-lee;" and a 
few miles farther north the larg-e Waug-oschance Island. 
Rounding- this we are fairly in the far-famed Straits of 
Mackinac. 

Now the course is almost due east to Mackinac 
Island. Fifteen miles bring-s the steamer off McGulpin's 
Point where the Straits narrow down to about five miles 
in width. To the north lies Point St. Ig-nace, the 
southern extremity of the upper peninsula; to the south 
lies Mackinaw City on the northern extremity of the 
lower peninsula, while immediatel}- ahead (east) lies 
Mackinac Island with Round Island and Bois Blanc 
Island (pronounced "Bob-low") immediately below (see 
map Part IV). All this forms a panorama of mag^nifi- 
cent proportions and beauty. The surf-crested shore, 
the blue water sparkling- in the sun, the dark h^ing- 
forests, the g-reat white cliffs, the g-leaming- villag-e and 
quaint old fortress, together with the constant proces- 
sion of ships entering- or leaving- the Straits in either 
direction, combine to produce a view that is indescrib- 
ably picturesque. The little white village of Mackinac 
nestling- under its frowning- crag-s adds an almost foreig-n 
touch to the beauty of the scene. Here we leave our 
boat to enter upon a more intimate inspection of the 
Island and its environs, a detail of which will be found 
in Part IV. 

b. Via Northern Michigan Line. 

If the steamers of the Northern Michig-an line 
are taken, the course is held north by east from Chicag-o 
to Luding-ton, a prosperous and busy city of over 8000 
population. Thence the shore is closely skirted (25 

50 



miles) to Manistee, where the second stop is made. 
Manistee is situated at the mouth of the Manistee River 
(see pag-e 38) and is one of the larg-est lumber centers of 
Michigan. The steamer enters the river and sails 
slowly up the narrow channel, about a quarter of a mile, 
to the dock. On leaving it goes on up the river into 
Manistee Lake, where a busy scene is presented. The 
lake is lined with saw mills, its docks are crowded with 
lumber in massive piles, and its waters covered with 
logs held in place by "booms," i. e. great strings of 
logs chained or roped together. The drivers show mar- 
velous skill in walking these logs and in maneuvering 
them about and sorting them. Here the steamer finds 
room to turn about. It swings around and steams 
slowly down the river and out again to sea. 

Once more the course is northward, usually in sight 
of shore, whose varying scenery is full of novelty and 
pleasure to the traveler. The next stop is Frankfort. 
Here the steamer enters a short, narrow river and then 
a charming little lake. The quiet beauty of this grace- 
ful harbor impresses one at once and it is left always 
with a little sigh of regret. Frankfort is the terminus 
of the Ann Arbor Railway and the point of departure 
of its line of steamers to Menominee, Manitowoc and 
other points across the lake. 

Leaving Frankfort, the steamer soon veers a little 
to the east, passing, in about an hour, the quite impos- 
ing Sleeping Bear Point. This great promontory is 
made of gleaming white sand and rises to a height of 
nearly 500 feet; it is crowned with patches of scrubby 
pine and spruce. Almost directly north, about 12 miles, 
lie the Manitou Islands, the larger one rising abruptly 
from the water in clifes 200 feet high. The course now 
lies northeast up the long peninsula which lies between 

51 



the lake and Traverse Ba3% known as Leelanaw Penin- 
sula, about 35 miles, when rounding- Lig^hthouse Point 
we turn sharply down this imposing- bay to Traverse 
City (30 miles). Passing- on the west Northport and 
Omena we soon enter the narrow west arm, and enjoy- 
ing- the beautiful shores with their thickly-wooded hills 
and prett}^ villas, we reach the dock at Traverse City. 
For details of Grand Traverse Bay with maps, see 
Part II. 

Leaving- Traverse City, the steamer returns up the 
bay, and rounding- the main land seventeen miles north- 
east of Lig-hthouse Point, enters Charlevoix (about 45 
miles from Traverse City.) For a description of the 
reminder of the trip see pag-e 47. For Charlevoix and 
environs, see Part III. 

II — From Detroit to Mackinac, 

« Via Northern Steamship Company. 

^ Detroit & Cleveland Steam Navigation Co. 

Travelers from Detroit ma}^ reach Mackinac Island 
by steamer on lines indicated above. (The twin steamers 
of the Northern Michigan line, the Northwest and 
Northland, are mag-nificent boats. Their exceptional 
size, speed and beauty demands this special notice. 
They are exclusively for passeng-er service, and plying- 
between Buffalo and Duluth, stop at Cleveland, Detroit, 
Mackinac Island and Sault Ste. Marie en route. Time 
from Buffalo to Duluth, 3 days; from Detroit to Macki- 
nac Island, 20 hours.) The voyag-e is somewhat long-er, 
and aside from the trip between Detroit and Port 
Huron, is practically out of sig-ht of land. Detroit 
River always presents an animated scene, an im- 
mense volume of traffic being- carried throug-h its 
waters — over thirt^'-six million tons in a sing-le season. 

52 



At its mouth it is four miles wide, but narrows to about 
a mile between Detroit and Windsor. Passing- Belle 
Isle, a beautiful park of 7()0 acres, the boat enters Lake 
St. Clair, a wide and shallow lake about twenty-live 
miles in diameter. The marshes about this lake are 
famous hunting- and lishing- g-rounds. The lake is con- 
nected with Lake Huron by the St. Clair River, forty 
miles long-, and presents many charming- vistas. At its 
entrance lies Port Huron, connected with Sarnia by the 
famous tunnel of the Grand Trunk Railway. This 
tunnel is 1^6 miles in leng-th and is considered one of 
the finest executions of eng-ineering- skill. It is a g-reat 
cast-iron tube, or series of tubes, twenty feet in diame- 
ter, and cost S2,700,UO(). 

Leaving- the St. Clair River the steamer traverses 
the whole leng-th of Lake Huron (270 miles) without a 
stop, thoug-h often in sig-ht of the Michig-an shore. At 
last Bois Blanc Island (pronounced "Bob-low") is 
reached the narrow channel between it and the main- 
land bending- abruptly into the Straits of Mackinac. 
For description of Straits see pag-e -^0. For Mackinac 
Island with map see Part IV. 






■ •'/-. ;4>>1%' 



.J 




».•«■•«««*■ -^ A '^^f** 



54 



PART IL 



GRAND TRAVERSE BAY, 



1, Traverse City and Immeciiate Environs, 



Traverse City — One of the principal cities of 
northern Michig-an, finely located on the south west end 
of Grand Traverse Bay _ 

and in a country rich in 
agricultural and lumber 
resources. 

H I s T o R Y — Traverse 
City was incorporated as 
a city in 1895 and as a 
villag-e in 1881. Previous 
to that time it was a well 
known rendezvous in early 
Indian and pioneer days. 
Situated deep in the lower 
end of a g-reat bay, it was 
out of the line of g-eneral 
travel from Canada to the 
Mississippi, and therefore 
failed to play anj^ impor- 
tant part in the stirring- 
history of colonial times. 
But the quiet retirement 
and natural beauty of its 
situation made it a most attractive place for Indian 




57 




camping grounds, while its great resources, beautiful 
harbor and line water power privileges combined to 
make it a place of large commercial importance — the 
natural site for a prosperous citj. 

We know that in the early days a small Indian vil- 
lage occupied this site. At that time the Boardman 
River flowed, clear as crystal, with a fine curve to the 
lake, the great pines swept in a noble forest to the very 
shore and all nature contributed to 
make this place asingularh^ charm- 
ing spot. 

In 1847 Capt. Boardman, of Illi- 
nois, came here and purchased a 
large tract of land from the govern- 
ment, and under great difficulties, 
with energy and perseverance suc- 
ceeded in building up a little set- 
tlement with sawmill, postoftice and other essentials of 
early pioneer life. In 1891 he sold out all his interest 
to the firm of Hannah, Lay & Co., then young men, 
who at once began the making of a cit}' and to whose 
sagacity and indomitable energy much of the present 
prosperity of Traverse Cit}' is due. 

Thirty years after this purchase Traverse City, 
growing as a center for lumber, agriculture and manu- 
facturing, was incorporated as a village, and in 1895 as 
a city, having a present population (in 1898) of more 
than 6000. 

Traverse Cit}^ has developed manufacturing indus- 
tries of large proportions. Some statistics may be of 
interest. The Oval Wood Dish Co. employs 350 persons 
and puts out a half million dishes per da}', besides manu- 
facturing clothes pins, washboards and other articles 
of woodenware. The Basket Factory made three and a 

58 



half million grape baskets and five million peach bas- 
kets in the eig-ht months of last year, besides many 
thousands of other kinds of baskets. In addition to 
these the Chair Stock Factory and the Potato Imple- 
ment Factory do a larg-e business, not to speak of 
numerous other industries of similar nature. Traverse 
Cit}^ is also a center for shipping- fruit which this 
reg-ion produces in g-reat abundance. Apples, plums and 
small fruits, and an almost incredible quantity of 
potatoes are shipped from this port to all parts of the 
country. 

Itinerary — Situated on the edg-e of the bay, the 
business interests of Traverse City are stretched along- 
one long- street running- parallel with the water. The 
city is also broken by the curves of the Boardman river. 
Back of the main street lies the residence portions, on 
both sides of the river, while behind these one enters 
immediately the beautiful pineries whose open forests 
have a never-failing charm. Still farther back are hig-h 
bluffs (2 miles), a very pleasant walk, (in which the 
Asylum may be included) affording- a beautiful view of 
the city, the river, Boardman Lake — a pretty inland 
lake offering- many attractive recreations — with the 
bay, its islands, peninsulas and charming- coast line. 

The Asylum is a point of special interest. It is 
open to visitors and should certainly be inspected. The 
Northern Michig-an Asylum was org-anized in 1881 and 
opened in 1885 under the support and control of the 
g-overnment of Michig-an. Its imposing- building's 
stand in a beautiful park of spacious dimensions imme- 
diately below the bluffs surrounding- the cit}' on the 
southwest. The property consists of fifteen building-s 
with 588 acres; it has a present value of over 8775,000. 
It has, at present, 553 male inmates and 4(^0 female — a 

59 



smaller number than in previous years. The disburse- 
ments for the year ending- June 30th, 1896, which in- 
clude special extra appropriations, were $206,646. The 
receipts for the same year were $195,811. There are 
live medical attendants beside the Superintendent, and 
172 employes. 

The roads about Traverse City are exceptionally 
g-ood. Beautiful walks, drives and bicycle rides may 
be enjoyed in every direction. Some of the most im- 
portant of these are described in detail in the pag-es im- 
mediately following-. Those interested will find a visit 
to the various manufactories full of profit and pleasure. 
The plan of the city is so simple as to require no special 
directions or explanations. 

2, From Traverse City to Northport, 

THE LEELANAW PENINSULA. 

A g-lance at the map will reveal the simple yet in- 
teresting- topog-raphy of this section. Grand Traverse 
Bay forms a deep indentation in the sweepings shore 
line of the g-reat lake. Its western coast is a long-, 
pointed peninsula, known as Leelanaw County. The 
bay itself is divided, in its southern extremity, by 
another small, narrow peninsula, which, piercing- its 
center, extends northward for about eig-hteen miles, 
making- two lower bays known as West Arm and East 
x\rm. Beyond, on the east, sweeps the shore of the 
mainland northward to Elk Rapids and Charlevoix. 
Three natural divisions are thus made consisting- of two 
peninsulas, Leelanaw and Old Mission, and the coast of 
the mainland. 

The most northern settlement of Leelanaw penin- 
sula is Northport. It may be reached by steamboat 

60 



daily from Traverse City, forming-, in tine weather, a 
delig-htful day's excursion of about sixt}' miles includ- 
ing- the return trip. Sailing* up the ba}- the steamer 
pauses at Ne-ah-ta-wan-ta (see pag-e 64), Omena (see 
pag-e 62) and Northport. It may also be reached by 
carriag"e road, a delig-htful journey of forty miles. The 
tourist will vary the trip to suit his own tastes, but our 
description, for the sake of completeness, covers the 
whole journey by road, either for drivings, bicycle or 
pedestrian. 

Leaving Traverse City the road lies along- the shore 
for almost fifteen miles. Traverse Beach (7 miles from 
Traverse City) is first reached— a pretty resort with 
charming- hotel. Still following the shore, we reach, 
about four miles further on, a place where a road turns 
to the left climbing- a rather steep hill. This will lead 
us to the old road, but recently a new and more desir- 
able road has been built straig-ht on along- the shore for 
nearly seven miles further, to where the shore runs out 
in a beautiful little bay to Lee's Point. 

At Lee's Point one may secure a very fine view, but 
unless it is desired to lengthen the journey by several 
miles, it would be well to omit this, and continuing 
due north leave the shore for a time and cross the head- 
land straight to Sutton's Bay, about four miles. On 
reaching the shore we round the bay, and in less than 
two miles reach Sutton's Bay postoffice, a small hamlet, 
making in all about 24 miles from Traverse City. At 
this point a beautiful road runs nearly due west to (5 
miles) Carp Lake, to Provemont and Fountain Point 
(see page 63.) 

Continuing the journey to Northport, the road fol- 
lows closelv the shore, affording most beautiful views 
all the way, about nine miles to Omena— a picturesque 

61 



and interesting- Indian village. The villag-e lies in a 
pretty cove close to the shore. Above rises a hig-h bluff 
upon which is situated the larg-e Leelanaw hotel with 
beautiful g-rounds and affording- mag-nihcent views. 
The history of Omena is closely connected with that of 

Old Mission, across the 
west arm of the bay. 
In connection with the 
missionary and educa- 
tional work org-anized 
at Old Mission (for 
which see pag-e 65), a 
station was established 
here in 1852. This phi- 
anthropy was conduct- 
ed by the Presbyterian 
Church as one of its 
mission enterprises for 
many years. The old 
church still remains in 
the center of the quaint 
little villag-e and the 
Indians meet reg-ularly 
here for worship under 
the pastoral care of the 
Rev. J. Payson Mills. 
From Omena to North- 
port is seven miles by a most beautiful and picturesque 
road, passing- en route the old Indian town of Ah-g-o-sa, 
named after an Indian chief of early repute. 

Northport, a little villag-e of 600 inhabitants, is the 
outpost of Leelanaw peninsula. Its history marks the 
beg-inning- of the white settlement of Leelanaw Count3^ 
In 1849 the Rev. Geo. N. Smith removed with a tribe of 




^^%m 



62 



Indians from Holland, Mich., to this countr3\ He was 
in company with James McLaug-hlin, a g-overnment em- 
plo^'e — -as g-overnment farmer for a band of Waukazoo 
Indians from Allegan count}'. They set sail from 
Holland, May 27th, 1849, and after a tempestuous 
voyage, reached Cat Head Bay, just north of Northport 
on the main lake coast, June 11th. A little later North- 
port was chosen as the permanent location, and with 
forty or tifty Indian families who also mig-rated here, 
quite a settlement was immediateh' formed. In 1854 
Messrs. Fox & Rose began extensive operations here, 
building- the lirst dock for large steamers in Grand 
Traverse Ba}'. Mr. H. O. Rose of this firm is now a 
resident of Petoskey. 

Be^'ond Northport the peninsula stretches north- 
ward for more than seven miles, to Lighthouse Point. 
Bicyclers and pedestrians of an exploring turn of mind, 
will find the trip interesting. As the peninsula now 
narrows down to a slender strip of land, no special 
directions will be needed. 

From Northport the return journey may be made, 
if desired, by a different route, coming b)^ way of Carp 
Lake. The road runs in angular route across the pen- 
insula to the head of Carp Lake, and thence rounding 
the lake, follows a narrow^ strip of land between Carp 
Lake and Lake Michigan to Leland, an interesting 
though rather deserted village. Here a little steamer 
may be taken, traversing Carp Lake and stopping at 
Fountain Point, Provemont, a resort with a fine artesian 
well over thirty years old, and other places of interest 
and beaut}' to Fuch's hotel, the southern extremit}' of 
the lake. Here the Manistee & Northeastern R. R. 
makes connection for Traverse City. Or the journey 



63 



may be completed by carriag-e road (somewhat hill}-) to 
Traverse City — a distance of 12 or 13 miles. 

Carp Lake offers fine sport for the fisherman, and 
it ma}' be said in g-eneral that this whole reg-ion is 
charming- and beautiful. No more delig-htful trip could 
be planned, full of novel sights and experiences, than 
the one just outlined. It can be easily made by wheel 
or carriage, in three days, by using steamboat and rail- 
road connections, in shorter time, while many days can 
be most happih' sp^nt in wandering about this charm- 
ing peninsula. 



3, From Traverse City to Old Mission, 

OLD MISSION PENINSULA. 

While there is no regular boat route from Traverse 
City to Old Mission, some of the steamers occasionally 
touch there — inquire at hotel. The round trip by car- 
riage road is very beautiful and may be easily made in 
a day b}' carriage or bicycle. Old Mission peninsula is 
about eighteen miles long and from one to five miles in 
width. It is a veritable garden, being all under culti- 
vation. Some of the finest fruit orchards in Michigan 
are on this peninsula. 

The road lies westward from Traverse Cit}' a short 
distance, and then north along the shore to Bower's 
Harbor in the bight of a little bay about twelve miles 
from Traverse City. Here a road follows the shore for 
two miles to Traverse Point and Ne-ah-ta-wan-ta, both 
beautifull}^ located summer resorts of considerable pro- 
portions. Directly south of Traverse Point lies the 
beautiful Marion Island, and close by a little island 

64 



known as Hermit Island inhabited solely by an eccen- 
tric old fisherman and hunter. 

The main road to Old Mission, however, turns in- 
land about a mile before reaching- Bower's Harbor, and 
runs due north for about six miles throug-h beautiful 
orchards ; hence turns westward at right angles for 
about a mile to Old Mission, fineh^ situated on a little 
bay opening into the east arm. 

Old Mission is one of the historic landmarks of this 
region. In May, 1839, two Presbyterian missionaries, 
Revs. John Flemming and Peter 
Doug-hert}^ came to this spot by 
canoe from Mackinac Island to 
establish a mission among* the In- 
dians settled here. They broug-ht 
supplies with them, including- doors 
and windows for a house. A coun- 
cil of the Indians was called and it 
was first thoug-ht best to locate at 
Elk Rapids, just across the bay. A 
beginning- was made here. Mr. Flem- 
ming- returned to Mackinac in a few weeks on account 
of the sudden death of his wife. Mr. Doug-herty was 
left alone, the only white man in the region. A month 
later he returned to Old Mission for consultation with 
Henry R. Schoolcraft, Indian Agent at Mackinac. Old 
Mission was then chosen as the location of the enter- 
prise. The station at Elk Rapids was abandoned and 
moving to Old Mission, Mr. Dougherty lived there for 
many years conducting missionary, industrial and educa- 
tional work among the Indians of great value and im- 
portance. In 1852 (about 13 years later) the mission 
work was moved to Omena (see page 62). 



65 




The journey may now be resumed by returning- 
clown the shore of east bay due south to Fowlers (6 
miles), beautiful views all the way, and then angling- 
across the narrow neck of the peninsula to Traverse 
City, twelve miles further. 

4, Traverse City to Charlevoix and Petoskey, 

I. By Rail, C. & W. M. R. R. 

Charlevoix, I-3 hours, 62 miles. 
Petoskey, 2^6 hours, 75 miles. 

Leaving Traverse City the train crosses Boardman 
River and skirts the East Arm Bay to Acme. Hence 
deflecting to the west, the first stop is made at Williams- 
burg. This is the junction point for a branch of the 
road which runs to Elk Rapids (see page 72), trains 
making close connections. Beyond Williamsburg the 
next stop is Barker Creek, where on the left, across a 
cedar swamp, Round Lake may be seen. This is one of 
that beautiful chain of lakes which extends almost the 
w^hole of the distance to Charlevoix, along whose pictur- 
esque shores the railroad runs to Ellsworth. 

The next stop is made at Van Buren. Torch River 
lies two miles west and carriages from Welch's Inn 
meet passengers here. Immediately crossing Rapid 
River, the fine expanse of Torch Lake soon bursts into 
view, and we follow closely the shore for several miles 
to the pretty village of Alden. Leaving Alden, the 
road follows the lake shore for about three miles, then 
turning abruptly eastward, skirts Clam Lake, a little 
connecting lake — or more properly river. We get onh' 
occasional glimpses of this lake, when turning north- 
ward, again, the train, crossing numerous babbling trout 

66 



streams, rapidly skirts the western edg-e of Grass Lake 
and plung-es into the forest for a mile or so, stopping- at 
Bellaire, a pretty little lumber town situated on the 
narrows between Grass and Intermediate Lakes. 

At Bellaire the train crosses the narrows or riv^er 
and the view is on the rig-ht hand side of the car for the 
rest of the way. Occasional glimpses of the river are 
caug-ht until, emerg-ing from the woods, we come out 



#;^ ^3 




upon the southern shore of Intermediate Lake with a 
tiny island in the center of the channel. The train 
skirts the shores of this beautiful lake for miles. The 
forest is very dense and g-rand, being- heavy hardwood 
timber. The shores rise in steep terraces abruptly from 
the lake, the water reflects as in a mirror the beautiful 
foliag-e, and the whole journey is one constant panorama 
of extensive vistas of water, forest and hillside. 



D 



67 



The next stop is at Central Lake, another industri- 
ous little town. After following- the lake along- its now 
narrow course— more like a river than a lake — the road 
skirts a sort of bayou and then leaving- the water alto- 
g-ether, plung-es for a few moments into a dense forest 
whose noble foliag-e cannot but command our admira- 
tion. In a few moments once more 
the lake appears, seeming-ly more beau- 
tiful than ever because of the splendid 
opposite bank which rises in a g-race- 
ful slope to consider- 
able heig-ht and is cov- 





eredwith ' 

noble trees. 
All al on g- 
the lake lumber 
operations are 
noted. Here a tug- tow- 
ing- log-s and there a 
raft; now a skiff and 

now a little camp upon the shore. Not for an instant does 
the scene lose its charm until, with a sig-h of reg-ret, we 
reach Kllsworth, which marks the head waters of this 
beautiful chain of lakes — though to speak accurately, 
the lake makes a broad bend here and continues its 
course for several miles further in a southeasterly 
direction. 



68 



Ellsworth is a small vnllag-e and the connecting- 
point with a stag-e line (7 miles) to East Jordan. East 
Jordan is also reached by boat from Charlevoix (see 
pag-e 85). 

As if to atone for the disappointment on leaving- 
Intermediate Lake, our route leads us past three other 
pretty little lakes about whose shores the railroad 
winds until at last the larg-e and handsome Pine Lake 
appears on the rig-ht. This we skirt for a mile, stop- 
ping- first at Belvedere, a station close to the Belvedere 
Hotel of the Kalamazoo resort in Charlevoix. Then 
crossing- the narrow channel between Round and Pine 
Lakes, the train stops at the Charlevoix depot proper. 
To the left is the new, larg-e and handsome Charlevoix 
Inn with its beautiful g-rounds. To the rig-ht the pretty 
depot park stretches to the water's edg-e. For Charle- 
voix see pag-e 79. 

The journe}' now lies throug-h rather a desolate 
looking- country, the scene in recent years of fierce forest 
fires, for a few miles. Occasional glimpses of Lake 
Michig-an may be had to the left (north side). The 
pretty resort Bay Shore is passed and ag-ain we enter the 
woods, and in a few minutes emerg-e upon the very 
shores of the great lake itself. This forms one of the 
finest approaches to Petoskey. The view is superb. 
We are fully a hundred feet above the water, on the 
very edge of the bluff. Before us stretches the great 
lake; straight across (9 miles) lies the opposite bank of 
Little Traverse Bay, which sweeps eastward to Bay 
View and Petoskey. A little to the east the prett}" 
lighthouse may be plainh^ seen on a clear day, marking 
Harbor Springs. Away in front of us in the bight of 
the bay the shore rises in fine bluffs crowned with 
the cottages of Roaring Brook and Bay View. The 

69 




p- ^ 



(i . 







larg-e white building- directh' ahead is the New Arling-- 
ton Hotel, while below us the water g-lows in match- 
less colors or dances in g-olden ripples, or dashes in 
pure white surf ag-ainst the beautiful beach. Mean- 
while the train is rapidly descending- the bluff and 
rounding- a prett}' point, crosses the brawling- Bear 
Creek, to stop at the handsome Petoske}^ depot. From 
thence it proceeds close along- the shore of the bay, past 
the imposing- limestone quarry (see pag-e 99) to its 
terminus at Bay View. 



2. By Carriage Road to Elk Rapids and Inland Lakes to 
Charlevoix. 

The trip from Traverse Cit}' to Elk Rapids may be 
made by carriag-e road and will afford a pleasant drive or 
bicycle ride. The road is, in general, in good condition 
and for many long stretches very fine. It is somewhat 
hilly in the central portion, 
the hills being long but not 
steep. The distance is eigh- 
teen miles and many fine 
views are to be enjoyed. 

Crossing the Old Mis- 
sion peninsula, the road 
follows along the ba}' im- 
mediateh^ above the rail- 
road, which it crosses at 
Acme (4 miles). From this 
point it runs nearh^ due 
north, with occasional 
glimpses of the lake, 
fine farming country passing (about 13 miles) a little 
lake on the right known as Lake Pto-ba-go. Soon we 
climb a hill whose crest reveals a fine expanse of 




throuo-h 



71 




lake and shore line. The character of the country from 
this point begins to show a marked chang-e. Long and 
beautiful hedges of spruce and iir, wide "openings" 
adorned with the low, flaring and circular juniper — a 
shrub or bush of the evergreen family — and exquisite 
copses of small pines take tbe place of fields and farms. 
The road is from this point (for five miles), to Elk 

Rapids, excep- 
t ion ally fine 
and the whole 
scene is one of 
wild, romantic 
beauty and de- 
lightful inte- 
rest to the 
visitor. 

^ *•-- -^^^ Rapids — A little town, 

"^^^^ finely situated on the west 

shore of Grand Traverse Bay where Klk Lake, and 
its long chain of sister lakes, flows into Lake Michigan. 
The rapids, headed in recent years by a large dam, 
takes its course so as to form a prett}^ island crowned 
with a handsome residence and park. The town 
itself is neatly laid out, a typical small lake port, 
and will be full of interest to the observant traveler. 
It has a very good hotel and is headquarters for boating 
and fishing excursions of great variety and interest. 

A small steamer leaves Klk Rapids every day to 
traverse for some distance, the chain of inland lakes 
which lie behind it. The route is very pretty. No 
more delightful trip can be imagined than to take a 
small boat, row or sail, and follow the course of these 
lakes to their head waters at Ellsworth. Such a trip 
has many advantages — perfect safety, great variety and 



72 



beauty of scenery, line fishing- of every kind, and in 
addition to these the route passes so man}^ little towns, 
not to mention farm houses, that one is in constant 
and easy reach of g-ood accommodations. It may be 
made long- or short, according- to desire, by use of 
railroad and steamboat facilities along- the way. A 
g-ood row boat fitted with a small sail is recommended 
for such a trip. While of course reasonable familiarity 
with the handling- of a boat is necessary, expert knowl- 
edg-e is not required as the lakes are so narrow and 
landlocked that dang-er from storms is reduced to the 
slig-htest minimum. By use of the map (see pag-e 56) 
and a little care, a g-uide is unnecessary. 

The course lies across Elk Lake from Elk Rapids 
to the narrows leading- into 
Round Lake. Note that the 
passag-e is not in the extreme 
big-ht of the bay, but a little 
above. By taking- at once the ^ 

east shore it cannot be missed. ^M 

Rounding- this shore, we soon . , . ^ 

enter Torch River, a pretty 
stream in the center of whose 
course is located Welch's 
hotel. A little above the hotel 
the Rapid River, a famous 
trout stream, pours into Torch 
River. Continuing- our course, 
we enter Torch Lake, and, 
taking at once the east bank, 
Alden, a pretty villag-e, is 
passed about four miles, and six miles further north 
we reach the entrance of Clam Lake. Torch Lake 
itself stretches away northward for twelve miles to 




73 



Eastport. Many pleasant places are located on the 
upper shores of this lake. 

Entering- Clam Lake, we follow a narrow, winding 
course through Clam Lake and up the east shore to 
Grass Lake. At its northern edg-e (a long arm to the 
west to be avoided) we enter the narrows, and in two 
miles reach Bellaire. Here the stream is very narrow, 
and a mill dam is reached where portag-e must be made. 
The mill owners are required bv the laws of river navi- 
gation to make this portag-e for all boats, and a courte- 
ous request for assistance to the foreman, will be 
promptly responded to. A little difficulty may be ex- 
perienced with logs on the upper stream, but reasonable 
assistance will always be g-iven by the mill men. A 
little patience and judg-ment will surmount all obstacles. 

Passing- through the beautiful Intermediate River 
(keep east bank and avoid long- bayou on the west) we 
enter Intermediate Lake. This lake is a g-em of beauty; 
it resembles a river, being long and narrow. The banks 
rise high on either side, covered with noble forests and 
grand foliage. It is nearly fifteen miles from the 
mouth of the narrows to Ellsworth, where the head 
waters are reached. Ellsworth being on the railroad, 
the boat may be sent back from this point to its proper 
destination by freight. To those who enjoy a cruise of 
this sort, we know of no more charming or feasible 
route. Compare, however, the Inland Route (page 128), 
which may be made the entire way b}^ steamer if so 
desired. 

Prom Elk Rapids bicyclers may continue the jour- 
ne}^ to Charlevoix, following due north between Torch 
Lake and Grand Traverse Bay to the village of Torch 
Lake (about 13 miles); hence north to the extremity of 
Torch Lake to Eastport (3 miles); hence due north eight 

74 



miles, passing the little town of Atwood, five miles 
from Eastport. From this point the road travels in 
ang-ular direction northeast, nine miles to Charlevoix. 
While the journey ma}^ be readily made, the road can 
not be called first class and the bicyclist must be pre- 
pared to do some hard riding-. 




M 




76 



PART HL 

LITTLE TRAVERSE BAY. 

Immediately above Grand Traverse Ba}' the shore 
of the mainland beg"ins to recede in a bold headland 
toward the east. At this point lies Charlevoix, which 
may be called the entrance to Little Traverse Bay, 
althoug-h technically the ba}^ really begins several miles 
further eastward. This bay is much smaller than Grand 
Traverse Bay, but its position, beaut}' and varied 
attractions have made it famous among- the summer 
resorts of the country. It is about 20 miles from 
Charlevoix to Petoskey, and the ba}" varies in width 
from nine to three miles. A description as approached 
by steamboat will be found on pag-e 47. 

1. Charlevoix, 

(1) History — -The history of Charlevoix is inti- 
mately related to that of the whole reg^ion of which it is 
a part. Its strateg-ic situation upon a headland com- 
manding- the entrance to both g-reat bays, g-ave it im- 
portance as a place of rendezvous on the main thoroug-h- 
fare of early Indian and pioneer travel. Its marvelous 
beauty and perfect adaptation for camping- purposes 
made it a favorite stopping- place. Its river, with 
beautiful Round Lake, opening- up into Pine Lake, 
g-ave it commercial importance of g-reat value. Nature 
certainly has lavished here every g-ift of grace and 
beauty, and it is a matter of sincere cong-ratulation 

79 



that commercial and utilitarian interests have been able 
to destroy so little of its orig-inal unique and surpassing- 
charm. 

Aside from its occasional mention as a stopping- 
place for the earliest pioneers, Charlevoix's chief his- 
toric interest lies in its connection with the Mormon 
"king-dom,"' a full account of which is narrated on pag-e 
89. The center of Mormon operations was Beaver 
Island, but a place of such importance strateg-ically as 
Charlevoix could scarcely escape the covetous desires of 
these early "pirates", as they have well been called. 
Previous to 1850 Charlevoix, or Pine River as it was 
then known, had been inhabited by numerous fishermen, 
and quite a little settlement had g-raduall}^ g-rown up. 
These were the victims of constant depredations by the 
Mormons of Beaver Island, and many sharp quarrels 
resulted. In 1852 a party of Mormons, attempting- to 
secure the persons of three ashermen throug-h some 
leg-al technicalties, were met by armed resistance when 
they landed at Charlevoix. Shots were exchang-ed on 
both sides and several of the Mormons wounded. The 
party withdrew with threats of veng-eance, and the 
fishermen, fearing- later attacks by a strong-er party, left 
in a panic, deserting- their homes and much of their 
property. After this occurrence the place was occupied 
by Mormon squatters for some years. 

In 1855 Mr. John S. Dickson arrived. He had pur- 
chased a larg-e tract of land here from the State. A 
long-, unhappy strug-g-le with the Mormons ensued, and 
many thrilling- tales are recorded of his experiences and 
those of his wife, who at one time was forced to leave 
her children and walk the whole distance to Petoske}' 
along- the shore, with no road, to summon aid ag-ainst a 
Mormon attack. These piratical depredations did not 

80 



end until the assassination of Strang- in 1856 and with 
his death the breaking- up of the Mormon settlement on 
Beaver Island. From that time the villag-e g-rew undis- 
turbed, passing- throug-h all the experiences incident to 
a pioneer settlement, until 1879 when it was incorpor- 
ated as a villag-e. In recent years it has been specially 






j:l*ii^-^ A 





attractive as a place of summer resort, while its connec- 
tion by water with a larg-e interior reg-ion has made it 
always a shipping- port of considerable importance. It 
has a population of nearly 2,000. 

(2) Itinekaky— Charlevoix is so located as to pre- 
view exceptionally charming- and offering- an 
81 



sent a 



unusual variety of summer attractions. The coast of 
Lake Michig-an consists at this point of a series of sand 
dunes or hills which follow a small but sharp indenta- 
tion in the shore. Between these sand dunes, (the 
tallest is known as Mount McSauba) the Pine River cuts 
its narrow channel. This has been so improved by the 
Government as to provide a channel for the larg-est 
boats, and its entrance is marked by a small lighthouse at 
the end of a long- breakwater. The river proper is 
quite narrow and less than half a mile long-, opening- 
into beautiful little Round Lake. Here where the 
banks sweep in terraces down to the water's edge, 
nestles the little village, and all about are grouped the 
charming summer homes of the various resorts. For 
this reason it is difficult to determine upon any single 
starting point for our itinerary. 

Perhaps the most convenient will be the swinging 
bridge which crosses the river just at the entrance to 
Round Lake and close to the steamer docks. From this 
bridge one gets a good view of the main business street 
of the town. Our first stroll will take us through this 
street to the foot of a hill (about three blocks) where, 
turning to the left we follow the fine avenue to the 
Kalamazoo resort and Bellvedere hotel. Pretty cottages 
adorn the beautiful terraces upon the right, while on 
the left the lake glows in a deep and beautiful blue. 
Across upon the other shore are seen the handsome 
cottages of the Chicago resort. Beyond, the lake rounds 
to a narrow stream, across which is thrown the large 
iron railroad swinging bridge, Following the avenue 
to its end (about five minutes walk) we reach the attract- 
ive Bellvedere hotel surrounded with cottages, and 
beyond, across the railroad track, the wide and fine 
expanse of Pine Lake lies before us. 

82 



Pine Lake is a larg-e sheet of water divided, at the 
southern extremity, into two arms— South Arm, leading- 
to East Jordan (12 miles); and Pine Lake proper, ending- 
in Boyne City, about 15 miles from Charlevoix. Turn- 
ing- to the rig-ht, the cottag-es extend back of the hotel 
for a considerable distance, and immediately across the 
street is the little suburban depot of the Chicag-o & West 
Michig-an R. R. known as Bellvedere. From this point 
the railroad bridg-e may be crossed by those in haste 
(crossing- unpleasant and dang-erous) to the Charlevoix 
Inn and depot proper which lie immediately across the 
river (a row boat may sometimes be secured as ferry). 

Most visitors will, however, prefer to retrace the 
journey throug-h the villag-e, and returning- to the 
bridg-e, climb the little hill that lies beyond, and pass- 
ing throug-h a pretty residence portion of Charlevoix, 
take the iirst turn to the rig-ht. Follow this street for 
live minutes walk when the beautiful new Charlevoix 
Inn, which g-races the shores of Pine Lake, appears to 
the rig-ht. The Inn is 450 feet long-, built on g-raceful 
lines, situated in a beautiful park with fine approach 
from the depot. Beyond the depot the pretty railroad 
park stretches to the water's edg-e. Immediately across 
the track is located a natatorium, complete and eleg-ant 
in all its appointments. The Charlevoix Inn, completed 
in 1898, is one of the most elegant and beautiful of the 
hotels of American summer resorts and should certainly 
be inspected by the tourist. 

Just before reaching- the hotel a larg-e g-reenhouse 
is passed; turning at this point to the left (north) a 
footpath (5 minutes walk) leads to the conspicuous 
Mount McSauba upon which an observatory tower has 
been built. From this commanding eminence a view of 
surpassing beauty may be enjoyed. The itinerary will 



83 



be completed b}^ descending- from this point to the shore 
of Lake Michigan, and following- that shore throug-h 
charming- g-rove and beach back to the river, thence 
past the Fountain House to the swing-ing bridg-e, our 
point of beg-inning-. 

Round Lake furnishes ideal boating- and bathing- 
privileg-es and pleasant outing-s, both rowing- and sail- 
ing-, may be enjoyed. Competent sailors may be se- 
cured at very reasonable cost and a cruise under their 
direction in Round and Pine Lakes will be found a most 
delig-htful recreation. The tourist can vary his enjoy- 
ments almost indefinitely to suite his tastes and time. 




2. Excursions from Charlevoix, 

(I) Pine Lake. 

As has been previously noted. Pine Lake is an 
extensive sheet of water, fifteen miles long- and aver- 
ag-ing- about three miles wide. It is divided at 

84 



the southern extremity by a blunt peninsula, the 
South Arm bay being- long- and narrow. Steamers 
leave about once in two hours for the two principal 
ports at the extremities of the lake, East Jordan and 
Boyne City. The round trip is very enjoyable and may 
be made in six hours. Leaving- the dock at Charlevoix, 
the little steamer crosses Round Lake, and passing 
throug-h the narrow channel spanned by a railroad 
bridg-e, it enters Pine Lake. To the east the larger 
arm of the lake may be plainly seen stretching away 
southward to Boyne City. 

Boyne City is an enterprising little town whose in- 
terests are mostly lumber. It does not command the 
special attention of visitors, althoug-h from this point 
the Boyne River may be reached (see also pag-e 40), 
where fine trout fishing- is to be found. 

East Jordan is more often visited by tourists be- 
cause of the beautiful trip on Pine Lake and also for the 
unusually fine opportunities for fishing to be found in 
that reg-ion. 

The South Arm is hidden for several miles, lying- 
behind a point on the west shore. As we round this 
point Ironton comes in view, a little town once the basis 
of operations of the Pine Lake Iron Co., whose ruined 
and deserted blast furnaces, where iron ore was con- 
verted into pig- iron, still remain. Beyond is seen a 
large g-roup of old charcoal kilns which, in the rear 
view as the steamer leaves the town, look like huge old- 
fashioned bee hives and add a quaint touch to the land- 
scape. 

Immediately upon leaving Ironton the steamer en- 
ters the narrows, where an old-fashioned scow ferry 
may be seen which transports pedestrians and teams 
from the "pensnsula'' to the mainland. The channel at 

85 



this point becomes very narrow. As we leave the nar- 
rows a bav may be noted on the east side, said to be 
famous bass fishing grounds. Some distance ahead an 
island comes into view. This is Holy Island, so called 
because it was used as a place of "worship" by the Mor- 
mons in the days of King Strang (1850) of Beaver Island 
fame. Just why this island was selected is not plain, 
but there is no question of the fact as a matter of 
history. The journey now leads through a more or less 
narrow arm until rounding Lone Point, East Jordan 
appears to the east and the landing is quickly made. 
The little steamer usually makes several landings en 
route. These stops at the little docks and settlements 
contribute an added interest to a most delightful trip. 

Jordan River and Deer Creek, both close to the vil- 
lage of East Jordan, are among the finest trout streams 
in northern Michigan. They are streams of great 
beauty and considerable size, and they have long been 
famous among the disciples of Isaac Walton. A convey- 
ance should be taken from East Jordan to points from 
four to eight miles up the streams, which may then be 
fished down as far as desired, where the teams will be 
in waiting for the return to town. Ordinarily from 
three to four miles is a big day's work in fishing a trout 
stream. Certainly it is all that can be properly fished 
under ordinary circumstances. If desired, these streams 
can be fished in a boat (taken by wagon from East Jor- 
dan), a skilled oarsman being required, however, as the 
current is swift. Wading boots are very desirable, but 
not absolutely necessary. 

Monroe Creek is a small stream which empties into 
South Arm directly across the bay from East Jordan. 
Less ambitious anglers will find this a pleasant and 
accessible trout stream. "Still fishing" is reasonably 
successful along the banks of the bay. 



(2) Charlevoix to East Jordan by carriage road. 

The trip from Charlevoix to East Jordan may be 
made very pleasantly by carriag-e or bicycle. The roads 
are by no means perfect ; some hill climbing- will be 
encountered, but no formidable difficulties present them- 
selves, and on the whole the roads are very g-ood and 
enjoyable. The trip may be taken down one side of the 
arm and up the other— the roads are about equally g-ood 
and this will add a variety to the tour. A pleasant 
combination tour for bicyclers is to g-o to East Jordan 
by wheel and return by steamer, or vice versa. Al- 
though a little better road may be had by keeping above 
Ironton, the g-ain is very slig-ht and the tourist is 
strong-ly recommended to visit this little town. The old 
iron furnace and charcoal kiln will be full of interest. 

Leaving- Charlevoix, then, the route lies past the 
Bellvedere hotel and then parallel with the railroad 
track for a short distance. The larg-e building on the 
shore is the D. M. Ferry Seed Co's warehouse, where 
line seeds, especially peas of which this reg-ion produces 
a superior quality, are stored. A little further on the 
road crosses the railroad track, and ascending- a little 
way a small hill, we keep to the left road and follow 
parallel with the track, now on the rig-ht hand, to a 
short but steep hill. Climbing- this we find sand for a 
short distance, and just here a sandy road (there is 
promise that it may be g-raveled this season) continues 
to the left across a roug-h stretch of country. This road 
may be followed to Ironton if desired, and after a mile 
and a half of sand it becomes hard and good, and affords 
many pretty vistas of the lake. 

But we will describe the other route, in which we 
keep to the right, and after a gentle descent (good 

87 



road) we climb a long- but easy grade, well graveled, to 
a little white school house (3 miles from Charlevoix) 
with a log- house immediately beyond. The road leads 
straig-ht on to the head of a small lake called Newman's 
Lake, where it deflects to the left a little, and then im- 
mediately we turn to the rig-ht ag-ain and climb a steep 
hill to find the lake close at our rig-ht. Prom this point 
we follow to the foot of a short, steep hill. This hill 
we do not climb, but turning- to the left, follow straig-ht 
on, avoiding- the road to the rig-ht, to where the road 
crosses another at right ang-les; we keep straig-ht ahead 
up a series of hills which look more formidable in the 
distance than the}^ really are. Reaching- the crest of 
the hill, we come in a little time to a four corners. 
This is the place where the other road mentioned above 
joins our road. 

Our journey takes us straig-ht on for a mile, where 
Ironton appears in view, and descending- the hill with 
the little town on the left, we reach the quaint old ferry. 
This ferr^' is operated at county expense, therefore no 
charg-e is made for transportation. Doubtless the old 
ferryman will take you over in a little skiff, as the scow 
is used mostly for teams. After crossing- the arm, we 
proceed on the journey throug-h the peninsula. The 
road runs due east for about two miles, then on passing- 
a schoolhouse on the north side of the road, we take the 
first turn to the rig-ht, and climbing- a long-, steep hill, 
reach its crest where fine views are to be enjo^^ed in 
every direction. From this point the road runs along- 
the island parallel to the bay. Avoid roads turning- to 
the right. The distance from the ferr}^ to East Jordan 
is nine miles. About four miles from East Jordan a 
beautiful brook of spring water is crossed. Be3'Ond this 



88 



the road is very g-ood to the town. No special descrip- 
tion of the road on the other side of South Arm is 
needed, as the simple direction "follow the telephone 
line" is all that is necessary. 



3 Beaver Island. 

One of the most interesting- places to visit in this 
reg-ion is Beaver Island, situated thirty-five miles almost 
due north of Charlevoix. Mail steamer leaves Charle- 
voix on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday of each week, 
fare for the round trip S2.0U. No stops are made be- 
tween Charlevoix and St. James, the sing-le villag-e on 
the island. The course lies close to the eastern shore 
of the island its entire leng-th. Most tourists will not 
wish to remain longer than the few hours that the 
steamer sta3^s there. To those who desire absolute quiet 
and rest in novel and quiet surrounding-s, a long-er visit 
is strong-ly recommended. The accommodations at 
Mrs. Gibson's are of the very best, especially famous 
for her cooking- of fish. There is much of scenic 
beauty, romantic history and novel surrounding-s to 
make a visit of some days most restful and pleasant. 

The town of St. James is situated in a beautiful 
bay protected from storms by a long- point upon which 
is placed a lighthouse and life-saving- station. The 
larg-er part of the village is directly across the bay from 
the point. The principal business is fishing-. Those 
to whom this industry is new will be interested in watch- 
ing- its operations. A trip in the fish tug- will be 
enjoyed by those whose stomachs are not "finniky I" 

The historic interest of the Beaver Island centers 
in the story of James Jesse Strang-. This strang-e 

89 



character was born in 181 3 and was actively identified with 
the Mormon church in the earlier period of its career. 
After the death of Joseph Smith a larg-e number of his 
immediate Mormon neig"hbors were convinced of the 
truth of Strang-'s claim to be the successor of Smith and 
mig-rated with him to Beaver Island about 1849. Strang- 
was publich^ crowned King- of the Island in 1850. From 
that time until the day of his death he ruled his king-- 
dom with a high hand. He instituted polyg-amy, having- 
himself at least five wives. He established an order of 
"Destroying- Ang-els'' who in secret wreaked his veng-e- 
ance on all who disobeyed his will. He carried on a 
series of depredations upon the "g-entle" fishmen that 
attained the proportions of a real piracy, and he manip- 
ulated the politics at the island in such a way as to 
escape all punishment of his crimes, even securing- his 
own election to the state leg-islature for the two terms 
of 1853-55. 

Such a course could have but one issue. There 
arose about this man an increasing number of bitter 
enemies, who only bided their time to inflict revenge 
upon him. Among these was Dr. McCuUoh, a promi- 
nent Mormon whose house (see illustration page 91) was 
a center of Mormon interest and who was at one time a 
confidential advisor ot Strang himself. Another was 
Tom Bedford, who, though nominally a Mormon, did 
not sympathize with Strang and refused to be party to 
his piracies, and who had been flogged at the whipping 
post by the Destroying Angel for insubordination. 
These two men determined on Strang's assassination. 

Early in 1856 the government boat "Michigan" 
came into St. James to investigate into the disorders 
pertaining thereto. The commander sent for Strang. 
On his way to the boat he was fired upon by Bedford 

90 



and McCulloh who had hidden themselves in some near- 
by wood pile. Strang- died of his wounds some weeks 
after, being- removed to his old home in Voree. Bedford 
and McCulloh fled to the "Michigan'' for protection and 
were taken with their families to Mackinac, where they 
were received as heroes. A few months later the 
Mormons, now without a leader, were driven forcibly 
from the island without being- allowed to take more of 
their possessions than the clothes they had on. 

There is one main street in St. James which leads 
from the woods on the south, where are the charred 
ruins of Strang-'s castle, to the lig-hthouse point. Just 
beyond Mrs. Gibson's is the old McCulloh home, the 




onl}^ relic of the Mormon days now left, unless it be the 
pine tree behind Mr. Neal Gallagher's store which is 
said to be Strang-'s famous whipping- post. 

Beaver Island is about eig^hteen miles long- and 
eig-ht miles wide. It is covered with most beautiful 
forestry of pine, balsam, spruce and fir. Its miles and 
miles of heath hard enough for a bicycle or carriage, 

91 



afford opportunity for many charming- vistas and superb 
views. One of the grandest views in Northern Michi- 
g-an can be obtained from the summit of Mount Pisg-ah, 
a g-reat sand dune rising- fully 250 feet on the western 
coast of the island, a pleasant walk from St. James. 
There are several small lakes on the island whose 
almost virg-in waters offer splendid fishing- to those 
enterprising- enoug-h to reach them. 

About a mile from the town, south on the ''King's 
Hig-hway" is the little Catholic Church, presided over 
for thirty years by Father Gallagher, whose name is a 
household word far and wide. 

3. Petoskey and Immediate Environs, 

- 1) History — Petoskey, one of the chief cities of 
Northern Michigan, is charmingly situated near the 
eastern extremity of Little Traverse Bay, with about 
4500 inhabitants normal population. 
It is the center of business and resort 
interests for quite an extended ter- 
ritory. Petoskey was incorporated 
as a village in 1879 and as a city in 
1895. From time immemorial its 
site was a favorite rendezvous for 
native Indian tribes, and the early 
history of Petoske}" is inseparably 
connected with Indian traditions. 
The story of its name is as fol- 




CHfEF PETOSKEY, 



lows 



In 1787 one Nee-i-too-shing, a chief of the Chippewa 
tribe, had born to him at sunrise, in his wigwam on 
the banks of the Manistee River, a son, whom he named 
Pe-to-se-ga, meaning "the rising sun." This chief tan 



92 



moved northward with his famil}' and in time took up 
his abode on Little Traverse Bay near Harbor Spring-s. 
Here was the boyhood home of Pe-to-se-g-a, and when 
he was twenty-two years old he married and settled 
here in a home of his own. Many years later, owincr 
to religious differences between himself and the Catholic 
priests to whose domination he declined to submit, he 
moved to the other side of the bay and took up his abode 
on the g-round now occupied by the city which was 
called after him, Petoskey being- an unhappy corruption 
of Pe-to-se-g-a. 

Previous to this, for many years Little Traverse 
Bay had been the center of Catholic missionary opera- 
tions. More than two hundred years ag-o Father 
Marquette was wont to visit here with his companions, 
and the Marquette trail leading- between Grand Traverse 
Bay and Mackinac Island via Charlevoix and Petoske}', 
is still extant, a portion of which, running- through the 
park of the Arling-ton Hotel, may be readily visited and 
is an interesting- and historic memorial of these stirring 
times. 

In 1852 Mr. Andrew Porter, still living and an 
honored citizen of Petoskey, came in the interests of 
the Government Protestant school, and located here on 
what is now the Jarman farm, situated on a beautiful 
knoll immediately south of the Charlevoix road and 
about three-quarters of a mile from the Mitchell street 
bridge. Here he established an industrial training 
school for the instruction of the Indians in the simple 
elementary branches and in agricultural pursuits. 

At midnight December 31st, 1874, the first train 
entered Petoskey, then a mere hamlet, and for several 
years this place was the terminus of the Grand Rapids 
& Indiana Railroad. In 1882 the road was completed to 

93 







4 ^ 





o 
w 

Oh 

Q 

o 

m 
P 
O 
H-r 

s 

g 
p 

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P 

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O 



m- 



Mackinaw City. The remaining- history of Petoskey is 
that which is characteristic of the g-rowth of all western 
cities — the advance of all civic conditions with rapid 
strides. In 1882 it had a population of 2700 souls. In 
1894 this was increased to 3649. The g-rowth, thoug-h 
rapid, was wholesome and healthy. Petoskey has never 
been a "boom" town and has always been singularly 
free from the evils incident to a place of summer resort. 
(2) Itinerary — Starting- from the Grand Rapids 
& Indiana depot the pedestrian will follow the broad 
walk throug-h a pretty park, a few hundred feet to Lake 

street. On the left, across the 
railroad track, are the Occi- 
dental and Cushman hotels. 
Turning- west, to the rig-ht one 
block, to Howard street, the 
center of the business portion 
of the city is reached; hence 
west along Lake street to (one 
block) Chicago & West Michi- 
igan Railway station with beautiful park, approached 
either by drive or staircase, the latter somewhat long 
and steep. A little further on a low bridge crossing 
Bear Creek near where it empties into Lake Michigan, 
(on the right side, city water works) crossing the bridge 
we find a winding path along the river bank, which 
leads to the high bridge above. From this bridge 
(Mitchell street) a fine view of the lake and bay and the 
picturesque banks of Bear Creek is secured. 

Continuing up Mitchell street (east) the railroad is 
crossed (two blocks), and farther (one block) the hand- 
some Methodist Episcopal and Presbyterian churches on 
the north side and Episcopal church on the south, are 
passed. Continuing up the hill, a somewhat fatiguing 

95 




walk, (five to ten minutes), and at its crest turning- 
north on Summit street to the edge of the bluff, (red 
brick house on the left), a superb view is had of the 
whole bay. Below and to the left lies the city, while 
to the rig-ht the shore sweeps in a beautiful curve. Bay 
View is hidden by an intervening- hill, but beyond 
around the farthest bend of the bay the larg-e white 
hotel on the heig-hts marks Roaring Brook; the cottages 
farther along the shore, Wequetonsing, and a little 
further the houses and church spires of Harbor Springs 
may be distinctly seen, while the red brick lighthouse 
will serve as a landmark for Harbor Point. The farth- 
est point of land beyond is known as "Nine Mile Point," 
be3'ond which lie Middle and Cross Villages. On clear 
days the outlines of Beaver Island ma}^ be distinctl}^ 
descried directly beyond "Nine Mile Point'' and thirt}'- 
five miles away. The opposite shore, view finest when 
the surf is running, stretches in unbroken sweep to 
Charlevoix (19 miles) with the pretty village of Bay 
Shore seven miles distant. Returning descent may be 
made down Lake street with its pretty residences to the 
center of the city. 

If a more extended tour is desired it might be advis- 
able to secure a conveyance. Pine views may be had 
from any of the hills which surround Petoskey. A 
pleasant five mile drive may be enjoyed by crossing, 
westward, the Mitchell street bridge and following the 
main-traveled highway, known as the Charlevoix road, 
which immediately beyond the bridge makes several 
turns at short intervals ; passing the Catholic cemetery 
(north side) with its grewsome crucifix, we reach the 
Fair Grounds, where the road turns sharply and follows 
closely the edge of a high and picturesque bluff with 



96 









'4^' 




charming- views. A short distance farther on, immedi- 
ately behind the Fair Grounds, a road will be noted 
leading to the left from Charlevoix road. This may be 
taken to the top of the hill, where a schoolhouse will be 
seen at the four corners. Turning- here to the left and 
passing- in front of the school house, the drive may be 
delig-htfully continued along- the beautiful hig-hlands 
overlooking- the bay all the way. and through a fine fruit 
farming section. Turning again to the left (half a 
mile) we reach the summit of Cemetery Hill — protestant 
cemetery to the left. Here, perhaps, the finest view 
of Petoskey and the sweep of the bay is secured and is 
well worth all the time and effort. Descending the hill, 
we reach the Charlevoix road again and retrace our 
way to the right to the city (one and a half miles). 
Pedestrians will find this a charming morning's walk, 
and bicyclists can make this trip, with occasional dis- 
mounts, with ease and pleasure. This tour may easily 
be made in a forenoon. 

To secure a complete itinerary of the city and its 
immediate environs, the route to Bay View, a little 

more than a mile distant, 
should not be omitted. The 
road lies directly behind 
the Grand Rapids & Indiana 
Railroad depot, pass- 
ing a little park 
where may be seen 
a well-defined sec- 
tion of the Marquette 
trail, the old Indian 
path wa}' between 
Traverse City and Mackinac (see page 93). The park 
is a part of the grounds of the large and handsome 

98 




New Arling-ton Hotel. Inspection of this imposing- 
structure should be made and the grand view from its 
verandas enjoyed. 

The road, turning- here, passes around the hotel and 
lies along- the high bluffs past the lime quarr}^ which is 
full of interest — especially to the scientifically inclined. 
The quarry may be reached by staircase in front of the 
Arling-ton, or from the beach. The quarry cliff is 45 
feet hig-li (the averag-e heig-ht is 60 feet from the water 
to the top of the bluff, and reaches in some places to 90 
feet), and contains a limestone of very superior quality. 
This formation belong-s to the Palaeozic time and the Ham- 
ilton g-roup, which means that it is of very early orig-in. 
The lower strata are remarkably even-bedded and do 
not contain many fossils. The upper strata are rich in 
fossils of many kinds, the principal being- Stromatopora 
and Favosites ; the latter name — Favosites — (from 
"favus" — honey-comb) may be applied in g-eneral to all 
that coral formation which is so thickly strewn alono- 
this shore, and which is become 
known as the "Petoskey ag-ate" 
althoug-h it is in 
no sense an ag-ate. _ 

These ag-ates may 
be g-athered along 
the shore in quan- 
tities, but mostly 
of inferior quality. ^ 

They can be pol- 
ished, if desired, at 

the various ag-ate works, situated near the dock, 
where many fine specimens will also be found on 
sale. This quarry produces 120 barrels of lime per day 
from each kiln. The yearh- output is about 40,000 




^l 



99 



barrels. There are several other quarries along- the 
southern shore. 

Further on are the g-reenhouses, where choice 
flowers may be had, the sweet-pea being especially 
beautiful in this climate. Opposite the g-reenhouse is 
Recreation Park, a ball g-round. A little farther on the 
railroad is ag-ain crossed and immediately Bay View, 
w4th depot to the left is reached. 

The Wheelway — In this connection should be 
mentioned the wheelway which is now under construc- 
tion between Petoskey and Harbor Spring's. Already a 
part of the "way" is completed and affords a most pic- 
turesque and charming ride. Following the Bay View 
road as already described, past the Bay View depot and 

straight ahead for about two 
blocks, a turn is made to 
the left immediately in 
front of the Howard House. 
Then crossing- the railroad 
the "way," by an abrupt, 
short descent, reaches the 
^,; shore and turns sharply to 

!':0: the rig-ht. Riders should 

keep their wheels under 
control and be on the watch 
;« for trains, and cyclers ap- 

proaching from the opposite 
direction. The "way" then 
takes its course (not open to teams) close to the shore 
past Bay View and Keg-omic (a larg-e tannery) and along- 
the edg-e of sand barrens, a wild and picturesque country 
to Pag-e — a bathing station four miles from Petoskey — 
from which point further construction is being- rapidly 
pushed so as to connect with a similar "way" now being- 
constructed from Harbor Springs and Wequetonsing-. 

100 




k 



4, Little Traverse Bay from Petoskey to 
Harbor Springs, 

Including Bay View, Roaring Brook and We-'que^'ton'^sing. 

Little Traverse Bay is ten miles long-, (although the 
south shore reaches out about twenty miles to Charle- 
voix), and from three to six miles in width. It makes a 
broad and beautiful sweep on an almost perfect ellipse 
from Petoskey to Harbor Spring's, a distance of nearly 
ten miles. The shore rises for the most part in stately 
terraces from the water-edg-e and affords a remarkably 
ideal situation for a summer home. Beautiful villas 
and resorts already occupy a larg-e part of this shore, 
and a trip around the bay is a most delig^htful journey. 
The trip may be taken by boat, train, carriag-e or 
wheel. We describe it as follows : 

V By Boat or Train. 

a. By Boat — Two admirable steam ferries, the 
Hazel and the Adrienne, make regular trips about once 
an hour (see time card in all hotels and newspapers) 
every day and evening-. In g-ood weather the trip is 
most enjoyable. 

b. By Train — The Grand Rapids & Indiana Rail- 
way has established an admirable suburban service 
from Petoskey to Harbor Springs with trains every 
60 minutes. Passeng-ers occupying the open car should 
be on their g-uard against cinders. A description of the 
route by train will apph- equally to the boat. 

Leaving Petoskey, the train passes the Arlington 
Hotel, and traversing the high bluffs beyond, affords 
beautiful glimpses of the bay. One mile from Petoskey 

K 101 



(for description of intermediate route see pag-e 95) the 
first stop is made at Rosedale, a pretty summer suburb 
of Pestoskev and, two minutes later, at Bay View. 

Bay View — A charming- resort and notable summer 
school. It is one of the most prominent assemblies in 
the country, being- second only in size and importance 

to Chautauqua itself. 

(1) HisTOKY— In 1875 a joint committee of the two 
Michig-an Conferences of the Methodist Episcopal 
Church was appointed for the purpose of org-anizing- a 
Michig-an Camp Ground Association and this committee 
was also authorized to choose the location. Bay View 
was chosen and in Aug-ust 6, 1876, the first assemblag-e 
was held. The g-rowth since that time has been very 
great. To the orig-inal Camp Ground Association 
which controls the property, has been added the "As- 
sembly" and "Summer School," which conducts a g-reat 
educational enterprise on lines similar and upon propor- 
tions second only to the orig-inal and far-famed Chau- 
tauqua. For full information address John Hall, 
Chancellor, Flint, Mich. Mr. HalFs address in the 
summer season is Bay View. 

(2) Itinerary — Owing- to the natural formation in 
a series of beautiful terraces rising- in amphitheater 
form, and to the winding- nature of the streets and 
avenues of Bay View, it is at first somewhat difficult for 
the strang-er to find his way about. The confusion is 
heightened by the lack of names of the streets on the 
houses, as well as by the method of numbering by 
blocks instead of streets. It is to be hoped that an 
improvement in this direction will soon be inaugurated. 
Plats, however, a fac simile of which may be found on 



103 



pag-e 102, can be secured at the office of the association, 
and by this assistance desired locations may be found 
without much difficulty. 

A tour over Bay View may be made in an hour, 
althoug-h many hours can be delig-htfully spent in this 
charming- spot, Following- the sidewalk immediately 
beyond the depot, we turn, and climb the steep terrace, 
Kncampment Avenue, passing- the Bay View Hotel and 
post office (in rear of hotel), crossing- Park Avenue, we 
follow Kncampment Avenue in its circular course across 
the wide campus, known as Fairview Park. At the 
further end of this park are situated the Assembly 
buildings, which form the center of the animated sum- 
mer life to be enjoyed here. The first building-, Loud 
Hall, contains a large and well-selected library and 
museum, and numerous well-equipped class rooms. The 
next building is Music Hall, and, beyond, pretty Evelyn 
Hall, with its charming veranda and spacious parlors.. 
Rooms on the upper floors of most of these buildings 
are offered for rent at rea ^onable rates. Beyond Evelyn 
Hall is the Auditorium, a large though very plain 
building, with a seating capacity of 2,000. The acoustic 
properties are very good. Immediately in front of the 
Auditorium, and in the center of the park, is the office 
of the association, near by the Assembly book store, 
while beyond lies pretty Epworth Hall, with a large 
chapel and other class rooms. 

From this point, if time permits and he so desires, 
the traveler may trace his way past the Auditorium to 
Forest Avenue, and up the terraces on the left to the 
highest terrace, where beautiful views are to be had on 
every side. If hurried, this trip may well be omitted, 
and, continuing on past Epworth Hall, he will descend 
to Woodland Avenue, where handsome summer homes 



104 



are seen on every side, and via Sunset Street down to 
the beach, dock and boat house. The beach may be fol- 
lowed a short distance back (toward Petoskey) to steps 
leading- up the first terrace to the depot. Visitors reach- 
ing- Bay View from the steamer (dock at the foot of 
Sunset Street) may reverse this route, if desired. Ordi- 
narily, however, they will find it more satisfactory to 
proceed in the order g-iven here. 

Continuing- our journey around the bay, the next 
stop is at Keg-omic. Here is located a larg-e tannery. 
The g-reat stacks of hemlock bark will interest the 
passing- observer. This bark is peeled from the hemlock 
trees from May to Aug-ust of each year and is shipped 
in from all the country round. It is worth about $4.00 
per cord. The stacks ordinarily on hand represent from 
$40,000 to S60,000 in value. At Keg-omic the train 
leaves the main road for the Harbor Spring's branch, 
and following- close along- the shore, traverses the edg-e 
of wild, picturesque sand-barrens. The sand lies in 
g-reat dunes from twenty to fifty feet in heig-ht. It is 
covered with a g-rowth of scrubby, ragg-ed pine, spruce 
and other indigenous trees and carpeted with moss, 
lichens and wintergreen. Here is the home of the trail- 
ing arbutus which is found in large quantities in the 
early spring. 

Tne next stop is Page where simple accommoda- 
tions for the convenience of bathers have been built by 
the railroad, and immediately^ be^^ond is Mononaqua 
Beach, a new resort enterprise with a few cottages 
already built. Rounding the curve of the bay, the train 
enters the woods, and in a few moments stops at Roar- 
ing Brook. 

Roaring Brook. Although the name is a rather 
amusing misnomer (the brook is the gentlest and quietest 

105 



of streamlets) the place is one of exquisite beaut}'. 
The forest is of almost primeval loveliness in its native 
wildness. The foot path, a g-ood board sidewalk, winds 
about throug-h charming- vistas, g-radually climbing- the 
steep bluff which lies a short distance back from the 
railroad. This bluff, ninety feet above the water, is 
crowned by a handsome hotel and affords a mag-niiicent 
panorama of Petoskey, Bay View, Harbor Spring's, the 
Point, with the whole surrounding- countr3% and far out 
into the g-reat lake. Returning- to the depot, a short 
walk through beautiful cedar forests leads to the beach 
and dock where ferryboats stop reg-ularh'. The g-rounds, 
comprising- 120 acres, belong- to the Roaring- Brook 
Association. Continuing-, the train follows close to the 
bluff on the rig-ht and affords beautiful g-limpses of the 
lake on the left. The woods are mosth' birches, one of 
the most exquisite of trees, and this whole reg-ion be- 
tween the bluff and the shore is full of beautiful 
cottag-es. The next stop being- Wequetonsing-. 

Wequktonsing, a charming- spot in its quiet loveli- 
ness, is pre-eminently a home resort, no effort being- 
made to attract the itinerant traveler, but every effort 
being- made, on the other hand, to preserve its quiet 
beauty and homelike character. The well-conducted 
hotel is quite too small for the accommodation of all 
who would like to come, and is situated immediately 
south of the depot near the shore. A walk throug-h 
Wequetonsing- (half an hour) should not be omitted. It 
is only a short, pleasant walk (about one mile) from here 
to Harbor Springs, and those desiring- may plan to leave 
the train here. The building- on the rig-ht beyond the 
depot is Assembly Hall, used for religious and social 
purposes. Crossing the track we proceed straight to 



106 



the lake (south) passing- the hotel on the rig-ht, and, 
beyond, on the shore the dock, where steam ferries land 
reg"ularly every hour or less. The broad avenue which 
stretches along- the shore in either direction is lined with 
lovely summer homes, and presents an ideal picture of 
rest and summer recreation. A stroll to the left may 
be enjoyed if desired, but the route to Harbor Spring's 
lies to the rig-ht, where, passing- handsome cottag-es for 
a mile, we at last reach the outskirts of Harbor Spring-s. 
The g-ood pedestrian who desires to accomplish the 
most in the least time, (cyclists also), may climb the 
bluff at this point by a fairly g-ood road but sandy, 

and then 
following- 
the edg-e 
of the bluff 
(g-ood 
road) clear 
across the 
whole 
leng-th of 
thevillag-e 
to the 
grade (g-ood 

sidewalk) to Harbor Spring-s at the Kensing-ton Hotel. 
By this route a mag-nificent panorama of the bay will 
be enjoyed all the way. Those who do not care for 
such ardent exercises may turn to the left on reaching- 
the main street, one block across the railroad track, 
and following- it the leng-th of the villag-e, reach in 
five minutes the Kensing-ton Hotel. 

Harbor Springs — The dock and depot of Harbor 
Spring-s are quite close together and immediately across 
the track from the Kensing-ton Hotel. Leaving- the 




schoolhouse, descend by a long-, steep 



107 



depot, the road leads past the hotel (one block) to the 
main street of the villag-e. This may be followed, if 
desired, to where the road climbs the bluff at the other 
end of the town, and then, returning- along- the edg-e of 
the bluff, descend by another long- hill (g-ood sidewalk) 
to point of starting- (see middle parag-raph of pag-e 107). 
But, to simplif}^ matters, the principal points of interest 
in Harbor Spring-s are : first the view from the bluff ; 
second, the Catholic Church ; and third, Harbor Point 
Resort. 

(1). The View frofu the Bluff z^n be readily secured 
from the road which, leading- immediately from the 
depot, climbs obliquely the hillside at that point. This 
view is well worth the rather fatig-uing- ascent. Those 
who prefer it, and this plan is strongly recommended 
to ladies and persons not in robust health, may secure 
pleasant conveyances, at a reasonable rate, always to be 
found ready at dock, depot or hotel. The view is match- 
less. To the rig-ht sweeps the beautiful bay with its 
now familiar landmarks. Petoskey g-leams conspicuously 
from its bluff, directly across — about five miles. In the 
immediate foreg-round lies the beautiful Point, which is 
here seen from the finest point of view, with its eleg-ant 
homes and prett}^ lighthouse, and the lovel}^ little 
harbor whose rippling- waves are ever dancing- in the 
sun. Immediately below^ under the steep cliff, nestles 
the pretty white village itself, and far beyond, to the 
right, the great lake stretches out as far as the eye can 
see. On clear days the Beaver Islands may be readily 
descried lying thirty-five miles away, a little to the 
north of west. Returning by the same route, we turn 
to the right on reaching the main street to visit the 
Catholic Church and School. 

(2) Catholic Church and School — The conspicuous 

109 



church stands at the head of the street. Some years 
ag-o (in 1892) this church was built over a small and 
more picturesque building-. Its quaint decorations, the 
work of its Indian worshipers, especially the elaborately 
carved altar, made by the Indian boys, will interest the 
visitor, as also its services with Indian choir. Visitors 
are reminded that the place is sacred to those who wor- 
ship here and will preserve a proper decorum. 

The school is open to visitors one day of each week 
(usually Thursdays) from nine a. m. to live p. m. It is 
presided over by Father Zepehryn of the Order of St. 
Francis and Sister Superior Wilfred. The present 
school was org-anized in 1884, but it is the outgrowth of 
a school and mission beg^un here in 1828 when the 
enrollment was only thirty-six children. It is known 
technically as the Parish and School of the Holy Child- 
hood of Jesus and has a teaching- force of two fathers, 
four brothers and four sisters, besides several minor 
assistants. The school has accommodations for 125 
boarders. The enrollment last year was 80 boarders, 
mostly Indians, and 30 day scholars. The school re- 
ceived from the government last year S108.00 per 
student for 45 students — a total of a little less than 
$5000.00. All government appropriations, however, 
end with this 3^ear under a recent act terminating ap- 
propriations to sectarian schools. Most of the protestant 
missions voluntarily relinquished their appropriations 
some years ago. 

Besides elementary school work and religious in- 
struction, the boys are taught carpenter work, printing- 
(an interesting weekly newspaper is printed in the 
Indian language) and binding, shoe-making, with 
other useful arts. The girls are taug-ht carpet weav- 
ing dress making including boys' clothing, knittings 

110 



and all branches of housekeeping-. Many articles 
showing- the work of the children are on exhibition. 
The standard of excellence is most creditable. A visit 
to this interesting school will be g-reatl}' enjo3^ed. 

(3) Hakbok Point Resort — Leaving the school, we 
return to the depot, and on from there to Harbor Point, 

a little over a 
mile. Visitors 
may easily walk 
this distance, 
although part 
of the way is 
sunny and un- 
attractive. 
They may also 
go by steamer 
if they care to 
wait to make 
conne ctions 
with the boat. 
The most comfortable way to make this trip, however, 
is to secure one of the convej^ances and drive. Very 
reasonable rates may be made for a drive throug-h the 
g-rounds. 

Harbor Point is one of the most beautiful and ele- 
gant of Michig-an summer resorts. Its unique position 
upon a long, graceful point of land which, extending 
out into the bay, gives on one side a fine sea exposure, 
while securing- on the other beautiful and perfectly pro- 
tected harbor with ideal boating facilities. The outer 
shore is a series of sand dunes and terraces from ten to 
thirty feet in height, with a beautiful white sandy 
beach, affording fine sites for buildings. Behind the 




111 




bluff the point itself is level, g-entlv sloping to the har- 
bor and covered with a dense forest of noble trees. 
This forest has been preserved in its natural state 
and is a spot of quiet love- 
liness that cannot fail to 
fascinate all who enter it. 
The well-kept sawdust road 
leads in winding- fashion to 
the eleg-ant Club House or 
hotel, which should be in- 
spected as it is a model of 
taste and beauty. Be- 
yond the hotel on the left lies 
the dock — where the ferry- 
boats touch regfularly — and 
the walk lies past beautiful summer homes to the tip of 
the Point where is situated the lig-hthouse which is open 
to visitors Thursdays from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m., and is full 
of interest. This lighthouse is one of the smaller 
lig-hts being- of the fourth order. It has a fixed red 
light having a magnifying lens of 240° The govern- 
ment estimate makes its range usefulness cover a dis- 
tance of 12 miles, but resident fishermen declare that 
they have seen it plainl}- as far as 22 miles. From this 
point the return may be made by either beach. Man}^ 
delightful strolls will suggest themselves to the visitor, 
in which he must be guided by the time at his disposal 
and his individual preferences. 

(2) From Petoskey to Harbor Springs, by Carriage Road. 

Passing immediatel}^ behind the Grand Rapids & 
Indiana depot, the road turns in front of the large New 
Arlington hotel and follows the bluff to Bay View. For 
detailed description see page 98. Passing the Ba}' View 
depot, the road continues through a long street lined on 

112 



either side with summer cottag-es, and turning- a little 
at one-half mile, follows a course parallel with the bay 
to Keg-omic, a larg-e tanner}^ with its row of little red 
houses. After passing- Kegomic the road crosses a small 
stream, ascends slightl3% and then turns sharply to the 
left (follow the telephone poles) passing- a long-, narrow 
pond on the rig-ht known as Mud Lake. Those scientifi- 
cally inclined will note with interest the traces of the 
Silurian period in the g-eolog-ical formation of the bed 
and shores of this lake. Crossing- the railroad (2 miles) 
the road now skirts a ridg-e of sand hills, and passing a 
summer g-arden (Moxie's) where another road known as 
the new Conway road diverg-es to the rig-ht, swerves a 
very little to the left and continues its nearly straig-ht 
course, revealing- a very beautiful vista of forest-covered 
hills in the far distance with occasional g-limpses of the 
blue waters of Round Lake to the rig-ht and the inter- 
esting- " Three Sisters " on the left. These are three 
tall, sug-ar-loaf sand hills or dunes, a part of a long- sys- 
tem of similar hills which intervene between the road 
and the shore of Little Traverse Bay covered with 
pretty clusters of the g-raceful Norway pine. The house 
on the east side of the road is Mr. Hathaway's. Here 
boats and fishing- tackle may be rented for use on Round 
Lake. A little beyond, the road descends, crossing- a 
short swamp, and climbs a steep, sandy hill in the 
midst of which the old road to Conway diverg-es on the 
rig-ht (4 miles) and after traversing a short stretch of 
sand and climbing a slight gravel hill, our road turns 
sharply west (to the left). Here we catch the first 
glimpses of the bay since leaving Kegomic, and the 
road follows in view of the bay all the rest of the 
journey. Half a mile further on the road curves to 
the right and runs through a beautiful forest of birch 

113 







and maple, where the telephone line appears ag-ain 
and will serve as an additional g-uide for the rest of 
the way — if such g-uide be necessary. From this point the 
course is almost due west to Harbor 
Spring's. Near here it will be no- 
ticed that the road emerg-ing- from 
the woods crosses throug-h the mid- 
dle of a larg-e circular clearing-. 
The visitor will be interested to 
know that this is one of many old 
Indian clearing's, larg-e and small, 
which may be noted along- almost 
all the roadwa3"S of Northern Mich- 
ig'an. Several smaller ones are 
passed on this road. About two 
miles further (on the left) a larg-e 
and handsome farm house will be noted, near which, 
almost hidden by the trees, stands the Roaring- Brook 
Hotel, well worthy of a visit (see pag-e 105.) Soon the 
very edg-e of the bluff is reached with mag-nificent views, 
below which lies Wequetonsing- described on pag-e 106. 
To the rig-ht a spring- of water is passed on the road- 
side g-uarded by posts. At this point in the larg-e 
field on the rig-ht are the links of the Wequetonsing- 
Golf Club. A little further and we reach the steep hill 
descending- to the city of Harbor Spring-s, with its superb 
view. For Harbor Springes see pag-e 107. 

5. Excursion to Cross Village. 

Introductory Note : It is onl}' simple justice to 
the tourist to inform him that no tour in this reg-ion is 
complete without a visit to the quaint and historic little 
town of Cross Villag-e. Owing- to its isolated position. 



115 



Cross Village is little known except in a vague and in- 
definite way, but this very isolation has been the largest 
factor in preserving that which gives to Cross Village 
its peculiar charm and fascination. 

One may reach Cross Village in three ways : first, 
an occasional boat may be found by inquiry at hotels, 
which is going to Cross Village either on an excursion 
or to carry freight. No boats make regular stops there. 
Second, a stage leaves Harbor Springs for Cross Village 
three times a week carrying mail, fare 50 cts. each way. 
The mail route traverses the shorter road, which, going 
through the interior, misses the finest scenery. The 
third and best way is to hire a team and drive to Cross 
Village, going by the short mail route and returning b}' 
the shore road via Middle Village. This is the route 
here described in detail. It may be pleasantly made in 
a day. By following the sugg'estions offered immedi- 
ately below, many annoyances can be avoided and the 
trip much better enjoyed. 

SuGGEvSTiONS : The general rules for driving in 
this region, pertain with special emphasis here. 1st: the 
road is much better after a sharp shower, either the day 
before or during the night. No fear need be entertained 
of mud, as the soil is such as to at once absorb the 
water. After a long continued "dry spell" the road 
will be found heavy and sandy. 2nd : start early — not 
later than seven or eight o'clock- — the earlier the better; 
first, because the roads are better when dampened with 
the dew ; second, because the air is better for both man 
and beast ; third, because there is no time when Nature 
is so lovely as in the early morning, not even twilight ; 
and fourth, because by starting early it will give you 
ample time to wander about the village and give your 
horses ample time to get rested and refreshed for the 

116 



return journey. 3rd : take your lunch and take plenty 
of it. You will have a better one than you can g-et at 
Cross Villag-e, with the added enjoyment of a picnic 
dinner in some charming- spot en route. 4th : insist up- 
on g-ood horses. A guide or driver is unnecessary^ 
provided some one of the party understands driving- 
reasonably well, but g-ood horses are simply indispens- 
able. By following- the route detailed below no trouble 
will be had in finding- the way. Drive gently at first 
for the journey is long. 

This trip can be made by bicycle without difficulty, 
but riders must expect some hard work. To those going- 
by wheel we recommend the shore road both ways, as 
the long-er distance is more than made up by the more 
level road. The watchful rider will avail himself of 
many footpaths over sandy places. 

To Cross Village, going by the Mail Route and Returning 
via Middle Village. 

Climbing- the steep bluff at Harbor Spring-s by road 
immediately above the hotel, we follow the telephone line 
throug-h the little upper villag-e to the outskirts, where 
the road turns due north which course it follows for 
four miles over a hilly, sandy and not very attractive 
road. At this point it makes a sharp turn to the left 
(west) and shortly, turns north again, then west and 
finally north to where, hidden in heav}^ woods, stands a 
little white schoolhouse (6 miles). The romantic situa- 
tion of this schoolhouse appeals strong-ly to the visitor. 
The road now leads up a sandy hill leaving the school- 
house on the left, and through a dense forest whose 
overarching- trees and varied vistas afford many pictur- 
esque effects. Later on (8 miles) another school is 
passed on the rig-ht with saw mill nearly opposite. This 
point is ten miles from Cross Villag-e. A little further 

117 



on the road deflects to the east. Here the telephone 
line leaves the road, and passing- on the other side of a 
log shantj, it stretches over the fields and through the 
woods by a short cut, to join the road some miles further 
on. The road itself g-radually circles eastward and then 
northward and enters a thick woods with beautiful hills 
sloping- on either side. Then a descent brings us into a 
sort of swamp with fine g-roves of hemlock, balsam, 
spruce and pine. Later a deserted but picturesque old 
log- cabin is passed on the left, of romantic appearance, 
and soon we join the telephone once more to be a guide 
for all the future journey. The road deflects to the 
left in a short distance at a sharp angle (follow tele- 
phone) and descending a steep hill, passes a remarkably 
beautiful maple grove on the right. Then a long, 
gradual ascent brings us to a point where, straight 
ahead, the blue water of the lake is seen. With fine 
glimpses of headlands and the shipping of the straits 
constantly before us, we reach, two miles. Cross Village. 

Cross Village. 

1. History — The history of Cross Village is 
crowded with romantic interest, being intimately asso- 
ciated with some of the most thrilling incidents of 
pioneer days. It is one of the oldest sites, being con- 
temporaneous with Mackinac in almost every particular. 
Before white men reached this country Cross Village 
was the chief station of a powerful tribe of Indians, the 
Ottawas, and during pioneer days it was from this place 
that some of the most important expeditions were 
formed. Its people were always prominent and power- 
ful in the counsels of the tribes and it was a place of 
rendezvous and basis of operations second only in 

118 



(2) 



importance to Mackinac itself. The history in detail of 
these stirring- times is g-iven under the description of 
Mackinac Island, pag-es 135 to 145, which the reader 
should consult. We offer here a simple resume of the 
more important incidents. 

(1) Cross Villag-e was orig-inallj known as L'Arbre 
Croche, meaning- "crooked tree" because of a larg-e, 
crooked hemlock tree which towered above the rest of 
the forest and made a fine landmark for all passing- 
mariners. 

t was the principal villag-e of the Ottawa 
. Indians from time immemorial. 

These Indians were, at one time, 
very powerful, numbering- in 1670, 
two hundred and lift}' warriors; but 
the tribe suffered many reverses 
and after a checkered histor3% was 
finall}^ absorbed into the g-eneral 
decay of all the tribes, of which 
only a melancholy remnant is left. 
The orig-nal old Indian settlement 
was on the beach below the bluff 
about where the saw^ mill now 
stands. 

(3) While there is no positive 
evidence that Marquette ever vis- 
ited this place, it is hardly credible that during- his 
many voyag-es back and forth he should have failed to 
visit so important a station. It is certain that before 
1670 a strong- Jesuit station was established here, and 
that from that time it was one of the most important 
of the missionary operations. 

(4) Cross Villag-e was so called because of the hug-e 
cross first planted there many years ag-o. This custom 




119 



has been ever since maintained, the Indians reg-ardinjj- 
it with both civic pride and relig-ious reverence. When 
one cross rots away a new one is planted to take its 
place. After the linal cession of this reg-ion to the 
United States, no special importance attached to this 
place and, with most of the surrounding- country, its 
history became insignificant. No records are available 
down to 1827, when the first cross was planted. The 
little church now situated immediately behind the cross 
was built in 1840. Before that time a rude church built 
of bark was the place of worship. It was situated a few 
rods south of where the cross stands at the point where 
so much of the bluff has fallen away. From 1827 to 
1855 a succession of estimable priests quietly carried on 
their work among- the natives, eminent among- whom 
were Fathers Barrag-a and Pierce. At present priests 
from Harbor Spring-s have charg-e of this work, now 
reduced to very small proportions. 

(5) The year 1855 marked a new epoch in the his- 
tory of Cross Villag-e. At this time Father Weicamp 
came to Cross Villag-e and there located his now famous 
convent, farm and school. The history of this remark- 
able man is worthy of special notice. John B. Weicamp 
was born in 1818 in Prussia and emig-rated to America 
in 1850. A man of imperious and commanding- char- 
acter, he found the restraint of life in Chicag-o, where 
he lived for the first five years, unbearable ; while, 
on the other hand, the freedom and adventure of pioneer 
life were eminently cong-enial to him. Coming- to this 
region in 1855, he first located in Harbor Spring's, 
owning- the point now known as Harbor Point, but 
later in the same year he settled permanently in Cross 
Villag-e. Here he lived for almost forty years, and here 
he died in 1889: His g-rave is in the convent grounds and 

120 



'3 



is described on pag-e 124. Father Weicamp was a man of 
indomitable energ-y, imperious character and remarkable 
personality. To build up such an establishment sing-le- 
handed in so isolated a location, marks a g-enius worthy 
of a better cause. In its prime, this institution, known 
technically as the "Benevolent, Charitable & Relig^ious 
Society of St. Francis," owned two thousand acres of 
land, maintained a working- force of forty "brothers" 
and "sisters" — monks and nuns mostly foreigners — and 
operated an immense farm with 
larg-e herds of stock tog-ether with 
saw mill, g-rist mill, carpenter and 
blacksmith shop, machine shop, 
besides the relig-ious and educa- 
tional work of the mission. Almost 
all the articles used were made on 
the premises. 

On the death of Father Wei- 
camp, Father Anton Baumg-arten 
became the Superior, but the insti- 
tution at once fell to pieces. All 
available articles were sold at 
auction and even a large part of 
the convent was torn down. The 
farm is now let to private parties. 
2. Itinerary. The town of 
Cross Villag-e is located on a bluff, 
about 100 feet hig-h, overlooking 
It has one main street, extending from 
Wm. Shurtliff's store on the south to that of Orville Shurt- 
liff's on the north, and thence out to the convent. The 
streets are very narrow, for the most part mere lanes, 
and the houses quaint in the extreme. The inhabitants 
are almost entirely Indian and the visitor will find much 




Lake Michigan 



121 



that is exceeding-ly interesting-, to note as to their ways 
of living- in a stroll throug-h the villag-e. The Indians 
as a class are shy and uncommunicative, but ordinary 
courtesy will usually be reciprocated. 

In the center of the main street stands the little 
Presbyterian Church. Turning- to the west from here, 
we come to the bluff where a mag-nificent view is to be 
had. Before us lies the wide expanse of Lake Michig-an; 
to the north the long- reef of Wau-g-o-schance may be 
clearly seen, ending- in a beautiful cluster of small 
islands. Directly west lie the Beavers, the first one 
counting- from Waug-oschance Sound is Hog- Island ; 
beyond that. Garden Island ; and then directly opposite 
Cross Villag-e the larg-e Beaver Island proper. Lying- 
out from the dock about eig-ht miles, between Cross 
Villag-e and Beaver Islands, is the little island or shoal 
called Isle-Aux-Galet with its larg-e lig-hthouse. This 
means "flat rock island" and is pronounced by the 
natives, Skilly-g-a-le'e. 

Passing- northward, the steps leading- to the foot of 
the bluff, we cross the site of the old bark church long- 
ag-o destroyed, and come quickly to the g-reat cross. 
This cross is one of a series of similar crosses which 
have stood upon this spot since 1827. Immediately 
behind the cross is the "little church," as it is called in 
contrast with the larg-er convent church. This church 
succeeded the old bark church in 1840 and was the only 
place of worship for many years. After the establish- 
ment of Father Wiecamp's enterprise, however, services 
here were discontinued for awhile. Later on. Rev. 
Father Louis Sifferath became disaffected with the work 
of Father Weicamp, left the convent, and preached to 
the Indians in the little church. He was a man of g-reat 
piety and sweetness of character and much beloved. In 

122 



1868 he was silenced by the Bishop through the influ- 
ence of Father Weicamp, ostensibly it is said because he 
refused to shave his beard ; but he remained in Cross 
Villag-e until 1883, constantly eng-ag-ed in good works 
and kindly ministries, perhaps the most valuable of all 
being- his translation of the Bible into the Indian tong-ue. 
In 1883 he removed to Kalamazoo and later to Detroit, 
where he died in 1898. 

Just opposite the house, which stands next to the 
little church, may be seen, leaning- ag-ainst a woodshed, 
(a little difficult to find) a marble tombstone, marking- 
the g-rave of Felix Sifferath, a brother to Louis. Felix 
was also a member of Father Weicamp's convent. He 
went out one evening- to "bring- up" the cows and did 
not return. Search was instituted and he was found a 
little later hang-ing- to a tree in the woods, having- com- 
mitted suicide. Because he thus died Father Weicamp 
forbid his interment in consecrated ground, and his 
brother Louis therefore dug with his own hands this 
grave and lovingly laid therein the body or his unfor- 
tunate brother. In this connection it is proper to say 
that at least six of the inmates of the convent are known 
to have lost their reason and became more or less 
violently insane. 

Returning to the main street, we follow it north- 
ward to the convent, a distance of less than a mile, 
passing on the east side the new St. Francis' school, a 
branch of the Indian school at Harbor Springs. Three 
sisters have charge of this work, which receives $400.00 
annually from the Government. It has about fifty 
scholars. 

As we reach the end of the long, picturesque street, 
we see directly ahead of us the conspicuous convent. 
The illustration on page 114 will show its original 

123 



appearance. The two larg-e wing's on either side, one on 
the east for the women and one on the west for the men, 
have been torn down, only the church proper remaining-. 

The convent farm is now rented to Mr. Charles 
Cetas, who lives in one of the building-s and from whom 
the key to the church ma}^ be obtained. The auditorium 
is most unique. Its arrang-ement, whereby each part is 
separated from every other part, yet all in full view of 
the altar, g-ives a most peculiar effect. Passing- throug-h 
the auditorium proper with its low, arched ceiling, we 
ascend to the altar and looking back see the larg-e 
gallery above the auditorium where the choir assembled. 
On the right are the lofts for the monks and on the left 
for the nuns, the altar with its steep steps being be- 
tween. Many quaint decorations still adorn the walls, 
and visitors will wish to ling-er many moments in this 
quaint old place. 

Passing- through the convent g-rounds, with its 
numerous buildings on either side, we reach the grave- 
yard, where a conspicuous little square house marks the 
the grave of Father Weicamp himself. This grave and 
chapel were prepared by Father Weicamp for many 
years before his death and adorned with skulls and other 
somber decorations. Here he was accustomed to repair 
daily, and descending into his own grave, sit and medi- 
tate there for an hour or more. The coffin in which he 
was buried he had prepared, also, many years before, 
and he placed it in his cell at the foot of his bed that it 
might be the last thing he saw at night and the first 
thing to greet his w^aking vision. His final interment 
here was with great pomp and ceremony. 

Those who desire to remain longer in Cross Village 
will find pleasant accommodations. Many interesting 
drives and strolls abound. The fishing, basket-making 

124 



and other occupations of the Indians, are all of g-reat 
interest. Good bass fishing- is to be found in'' this 
vicinity. Full and reliable information may be secured 
from Mr. Wm. Shurtliff, the present postmaster. 

To Harbor Springs via Middle Village. 

We return over the same road (follow telephone) 
for about a mile and a half to the first road g-oing- west. 
Turning- here we follow the ang-ling- but well traveled 
road for six miles until the bluff is reached immediately 




The -Little Church- and Cross at Cross Village. 

above Middle Village. It is not necessary to descend 
this bluff, but It IS strong-ly recommended. Descendino- 
by a steep g-rade to the villag-e, a little cluster of Indian 
huts and shanties, we pass first the unique postoffice of 
C^oodhart, and then, one mile south, we reach the villag-e 
proper and passing- throug-h the main and only street 

125 



of the villag-e, we drive directly in front of the con- 
spicious white church, and keeping below the bluff ioWow^ 
in many places close to the water's edg-e, for fully two 
miles. Here the road is very narrow, the trees almost 
touching- in some places, making- a series of most charm- 
ing- vistas. Climbing- the bluff by an equally steep 
ascent, the route now becomes one of exceptional beauty 
and grandeur. The road winds along- the bluff close 
to the edg-e for miles, passing- en route many exquisite 
g-roves, and fine precipitous heig-hts Here a roll-way 
will be noted where logs are rolled down the bluff into 
the water and there formed into rafts and towed to the 
mill, Deflecting to the right, the road crosses a sharp 
ravine, and returning to the bluff again follows it until 
within five miles of Harbor Springs. Here the shore 
stretches out far away into the coast. The road, how- 
ever, still following the bluff with fine view over the 
tops of the trees, passes through old Indian clearings 
with their scrawny orchards and comes at last to Emmet 
Beach, a new and beautiful resort, from thence follow- 
ing the telephone line to Harbor Springs, our point of 
departure. 

6. Excursions from Petoskey, 

(I) To Mackinac Island by Rail via Mackinaw City. 

The main line of the Grand Rapids and Indiana 
Railway extends from Petoskey to Mackinaw City, its 
terminus, a distance of thirty-six miles. Excursion 
trains are run daily from Petoskey to Mackinac Island 
via Mackinaw City, giving tourists several hours on the 
Island. Leaving Petoskey the train passes Bay View 
and Ke-go-mic (see page 101). Then a little later, on 
the left, the pretty Round Lake where pleasant facilities 

126 



for a day's outing- may be had. Round Lake is especially 
commended as a delig-htful and accessible picnic ground 
for parties of ladies and children. The next stop is 
Conway (six miles) a little villag-e situated on the edge 
of Crooked Lake. Fishing- parties often make this 
their starting- point. Beyond Conway the road follows 
the shores of Crooked Lake three miles to Oden-Oden. 
This place is favorabh^ known as a summer resort, hav- 
ing- two g-ood hotels. Atherton Inn, (now known as 
Rawdon's, and under new management) is quite unique 
in its structure. Good bathing- is to be enjoyed here ; 
all facilities are provided at the bathing- house. One of 
the chief attractions of Oden is its g-reat flowing- or 
artesian well, close by the depot, furnishing- an exhaust- 
less supply of clear cold water from a depth of 200 feet. 
Oden-Oden is the starting point for steamers of the 
Inland Route, for which see pag-e 128. Beyond Oden the 
road follows the lake to the point where it enters 
Crooked River, and then, with occasional g-limpses of 
the river, to Alanson, a little town on Crooked River 
where fishing parties are made up for various resorts on 
Burt Lake. 

The road now pushes throug-h a country in which 
the dense forests are only occasionally relieved by clear- 
ings and pioneer farms ; passing Brutus, a small village 
from which Maple River may be reached one and a half 
miles due east. Maple River is a beautiful forest 
stream — one of the finest trout fishing- streams in Mich- 
igan. It can be fished from the bank, although w^ading 
is much to be preferred. The stream is of g-ood size, 
and there is but little "tang-le" to annoy. In the early 
season, May and June, it is best fished from Brutus, but 
later Pellston furnishes better opportunities as it is 
farther up stream. 

127 



From Brutus it is six miles to Pellston, a small 
hamlet, but headquarters for trout fishing- on Maple 
River. Five miles east of Pellston — stage meets every 
train — lies Douglas Lake, an exception all}' beautiful 
body of water and famous for fishing- (bass and pickerel). 
"Bryant's" is a pleasant fishing- Inn on the shore of 
this lake with daily stag-e connections with Pellston. 
A telephone line is also in course of construction. 

The next station is Levering, a small village and 
beyond that Carp Lake, a pretty sheet of water afford- 
ing good fishing. From this point the road traverses a 
dense forest almost entirely uninhabited, to Mackinaw 
City, the terminus. For Mackinaw City see page 152. 
For Mackinac Island see page 145. 





*4#nFiBiinni 



(2) To Mackinac Island by Steamers of the Inland Route. 

The Inland Route furnishes one of the most inter- 
esting and beautiful trips. It traverses a long chain of 

lakes and rivers 
from Petoskey 
(train to Oden) 
to Cheboygan 
and affords a 
constant suc- 
cession of un- 
i q u e 1 a n d- 
trip naturally divides itself into three 
From Petoskey to Topinabee, {b) from 
Topinabee to Cheboygan, (-) from Cheboygan to Macki- 
nac Island, any or all of which may be taken as desired. 
(a) From Petoskey to Topinabee, leaving Petoskey 
by the Grand Rapids & Indiana Railway, on morning 
train, we arrive (nine miles) at Oden, (see page 127) from 
which place the steamers start upon the Inland Route 




scapes. The 
sections, {a) 



128 



proper. The course lies to the head of Crooked River, a 
distance of two miles from Crooked Lake. Entering- 
Crooked River the experience of its unique navig-ation 
will be g-reatly enjoyed. It is six miles long- and very 
crooked, and passing- throug-h dense forests and marshes, 
presents many striking- vistas. The course bends and 
twists, now among- tall reeds and g-rasses, now under 
drooping- trees whose branches often touch the deck of 
the steamer and whose outlines are mirrored with 
almost startling- distinctness in the quiet water of the 
river. 

At Alanson, see pag-e 127, a unique draw bridg-e is 
passed, and beyond there opens up about three quarters 
of a mile of straig-ht channel, this part of the river hav- 
ing- been dredg-ed out by the State some years ag-o. As 
if to make up for so long- a straig-ht stretch, the river 
now bends and turns in ang-les seeming-ly beyond navi- 
g-ation, the most marked of which are called Devil's 
Elbow, and Horse Shoe Bend. The little steamers, 
however, by twisting-, turning-, backing- up and g"oing- 
forward, make all the turns with remarkable skill, and 
after passing- a typical homesteader's shanty (every one 
with a camera takes a snap) the mouth of Crooked River 
is reached and we enter beautiful Burt Lake. 

Our course now lies across the lower end of the lake 
to the head of Indian River, a distance of seven miles. 
Burt Lake is nearly ten miles long- and averag-es four 
miles wide. Its shore is quite well settled. Immediately 
to the north of Crooked River is a considerable point of 
land where is located the quaint Indian Villag-e, a settle- 
ment entirely of Indians whose principal industry is 
making- baskets. Near by is Burt Spring-s (Johnson's 
Camp). Johnson's, Sag-er's and Voig-htlander's are the 
principle tishing Inns of Burt Lake. All furnish g-ood 

129 



accommodations, with boats, guides, etc. At the lower 
end of Burt Lake is Pittsburg-h Landing-, the summer 
home of the Arg-onaut Hunting- and Fishing- Club of 
Pittsburg-h, Pa., with a club house and numerous pri- 
vate cottag-es. 




"Natives " 

We now enter the beautiful Indian River, a stream 
nearly seven miles long- connecting- Burt Lake with 
Mullet Lake. Passing- on the left the Columbus Land- 
ing-, the little town of Indian River on the Michig-an 
Central R. R., is quickly reached, where the boat stops 
forty minutes for dinner. Indian River has a popula- 
tion of 200. The Sturg-eon and Pig-eon Rivers — two 
famous trout streams — are most easily reached from 

130 



this point. Leaving- Indian River villag-e, an old 
abandoned bridg-e trestle is passed and soon Mullet 
Lake is entered and (two miles) Topinabee, a pretty 
villag-e on the Michig-an Central R. R. is reached, the 
end of the first section of our trip. Those who desire to 
may return from this point the same day to Petoskey ; 
those g"oing- on will here chang-e steamers. 

{b) From Topinabee to Cheboyg-an the route now 
lies along- the whole length of Mullet Lake, a fine body 
of water ten miles long- and three miles wide with hig-h 
and finely wooded banks. Good fishing-. At the 
northern extremity Mullet Lake enters into Cheboyg-an 
River, where on the left is situated the Cheboyg-an Club 
House, "The Windmere." Entering the river the 
steamer picks its way among- log-s and booms, past a 
larg-e tannery and enters the locks with a short fall to 
the lake level. On the rig-ht hand lies perhaps the 
larg-est sawdust pile in the world, being- the immense 
accumulation of sawdust from the g-reat McArthur saw 
mills during- the last twenty-five 3'ears. Those who 
desire may leave the boat at the locks and walk in ten 
minutes to the center of the town, having- ample time 
to join the boat ag-ain when it lands at the dock. 

Cheboyg-an is a busy lumber center of 8000 inhabi- 
tants. Six g-reat saw mills are now in operation. It 
has a g-ood harbor and boasts a street car line nearly 
two miles long-. Cheboyg-an marks the end of the 
second section of the trip and in fact the end of the 
"Inland Route'' proper. 

{c) Cheboyg-an to Mackinac Island. Close connec- 
tions are made here for Mackinac Island. Starting- 
from McArthur's dock, the steamer sails slowly out of 
the river passing- saw mills and g-reat piles of lumber 
with numerous vessels loading- at the docks. Hence 

131 



beyond the pier with small lig-ht-house, into Lake 
Michigan, following- the South Channel between the 
main land and Bois Blanc (pronounced "Bob-low") 
Island. The course is nearh^ north to Bois Blanc 
Island, stopping- at Point Aux Pins (pronounced "Point 
aw Pang"). 

Bois Blanc Island is about twelve miles long and 
six miles wide. It is densely wooded with forests of 
pine, maple and birch. At the southwest extremity 
Point Aux Pins resort is beautifully located with good 
hotel and numerous cottages. On the southeast ex- 
tremit}^ an important life saving- station is established. 
Pine bathing, fishing and hunting are to be enjoyed 
upon the island. From Point Aux Pins to Mackinac 
Island is about twelve miles. 

3 To Bear Lake. 

Bear Lake lies seven miles south of Petoske}^ on a 
branch of the Grand Rapids & Indiana Railway, suburban 
trains making the trip several times a day from Petos- 
key. The lake is very beautiful and so easily accessible 
as to make it a delightful excursion, especially for 
ladies and children. A pleasant little steamer makes 
the circuit of the lake, connecting with all suburban 
trains. Bear Lake also affords fine fishing and camping 
facilities, and has many pleasant resorts and inns. 




PART IV. 

MACKINAC ISLAND, 

(I) Introduction. 

Mackinac Island is far famed. Its beautiful situa- 
tion, historic associations, unique and picturesque shores 
and a certain native beauty that is indescribable, unite 
to make it one of the most charming- spots in America. 
If there were nothing- other than its picturesque situa- 
tion, Mackinac would be charming-, but in addition 
to this its intimate association with one of the most 
fascinating and romantic periods of American history, 
makes ever}^ path and heig-ht sug-g-estive of historic 
lore. 

In order that the reader may intellig-ently enjoy his 
visit to this far-famed spot, it will be necessary to nar- 
rate somewhat in detail the history of Mackinac Island. 
This history is, therefore, presented here in the form of 
an Introduction so that the itinerary of the Island 
(pages 145 to 151) need contain only brief resume's of the 
points of interest, sufficient for those who are in haste, 
while those who are desirous of informing- themselves 
more in detail, with the historical connections, are re- 
ferred to the various sections of this Introduction. 

(1) Mackinac Island shows evidence of g-reat ag-e 
and early inhabitants. The most casual observer can- 
not but recog-nize the open secret of its g-eologic pecul- 
iarities, namely, that it was at one time completely 
submerg-ed by floods of waters, whose rushing- tides and 
tumultuous attacks it was able to successfully resist, 

F 135 



until at last the water receded leaving- its g-reat archeS' 
rocks, caves and precipices to tell the tale of that 
mig-hty strug-g-le. 

(2) In the far-distant ag-es of antiquity it seems 
probable that this island was inhabited by aborig-inal 
tribes whose very names are now lost. It is certain that 
it was inhabited long- before white men ever reached its 
shores, and there are traces as well as leg-ends of a his- 
tory that reaches back into the remotest antiquity. 

(3) Earliest Exploj'ers — ^In 1534 Cartier discovered 
the St. Lawrence River and took possession of all the 
country in the name of Prance, but with no adequate 
conception of its extent or g-eog-raphy. Slowly the pro- 
cess of exploration and settlement was achieved, until 
in 1608 Quebec, and in 1642 Montreal, became the head- 
quarters of trade and centers of g-overnment and coloni- 
zation. During- all this time the Indians came on annual 
visits to trade with the whites, in g-reat numbers and 
from far and near. Some came from the Great Lakes, 
even as far as Lake Superior, and told of the wonders 
of the country where they lived. In 1633, just one hun- 
dred years after Cartier discovered the St. Lawrence, 
Jean Nicholet made his famous journey from Montreal 
to Green Bay, and was beyond all question the first 
white man to see Mi-chil-im-ak-in-ac, now Mackinac 
Island. Nicholet was followed b}^ Perrot in 1665, and 
and later by numerous explorers and Couriers D'bois. 

(4) Indicui Tribes — At this time there were two 
g-reat Indian nations, who were sworn foes and eng-ag-ed 
in constant and deadly warfare. These were the 
Iroquois who lived in New York and the eastern states 
and who were afterwards allies of the Kng-lish, and the 
Algonquins, who lived in Canada and the country of the 

136 



Great Lakes and were allies of France. The Alg-on- 
quins were divided into several larg-e tribes and endless 
smaller ones, the principal being- the Ottawas, Chippe- 
was and Hurons. Althoug-h all these tribes were united 
ag-ainst their common foe the Iroquois, yet they had 
constant difficulties between themselves, and man}^ 
bloody conflicts and dreadful massacres resulted. 

(5) Jesuit Missionaries — At this time the first real 
history beg^ins, with the work of the Jesuit missionaries. 
These men were sent out from France b}' the Catholic 
Church to convert the Indians to the Christian faith. 
They were, for the most part, men of noble character, 
splendid heroism and g-reat practical intellig^ence. 
Gaining- from the outset the confidence of the Indians, 
they became their loved and trusted counselors. They 
were peacemakers between the tribes, they were in- 
terpreters between the Indians and whites, they were 
intrepid and courag-eous explorers and opened up vast 
reg-ions of unknown land, culminating- in Marquette's 
immortal journey to the Mississippi River. It is hardly 
possible to over-estimate the important part which these 
missionaries played in shaping and controlling- the 
events of those stirring- times. Among the principal 
missionaries were Fathers Joques and Raymbault who, 
in 1642, planted the cross at Sault Ste. Marie. Father 
Allouez who assisted in establishing- the mission of St. 
Ig-nace and visited Mackinac in 1669, and pre-eminently 
Father Marquette, whose remarkable history is further 
narrated on pag-e 154. 

(6) The Period of French Possession — From 1534 
when Cartier discovered the St. Lawrence River to 176(» 
when the French surrendered Montreal to the British, 
this whole reg-ion, at least in name, owned alleg-iance to 

137 



the French crown. Its history is intimately associated 
with that of Montreal and early French pioneer life. 
Being- a natural stopping- place in the g-reat water-way 
between the St. Law^rence and the Mississippi, it be- 
came a place of importance and prominence to which its 
natural advantag-es g-reatly added. For many years it 
divided with St. Ig-nace the attention of the host of 
explorers, adventurers, traders, soldiers and colonizers 
who poured from France into the new world. 

In 1679 it was visited by the famous "Griffon" ex- 
pedition under La Salle, that prince of explorers. The 
Griifon was a ship of about sixty tons burden, built on 
Lake Erie, near the present site of Buffalo, and the first 
ship to sail the Great Lakes. Crossing- Lake Erie the 
Griffon entered Detroit River (all that country was then 
a wilderness), crossed St. Clair Lake, and passing- 
throug-h St. Clair River sailed up Lake Huron. After 
weathering- a furious g"ale, the ship reached Mackinac 
in safety, whose beauty enraptured even these hardy 
explorers. The Griffon went on to Green Bay and was 
later sent back to Niag-ara by La Salle, w^ho continued 
his journey of discovery in small boats. Hut the Griffon 
was never heard from afterwards, being-, doubtless, 
foundered in Lake Huron. 

In 1695 Cadillac was placed in command of French 
interests in this reg-ion. He determined upon moving- 
the principal post to the Detroit River and did so in 
1701. This resulted in a g-eneral mig-ration of the 
Indians to Detroit and the practical abandonment of the 
settlements at Mackinac and St. Ig-nace. In 1706 the 
discourag-ed missionaries burned their station at St. 
Ig-nace and returned to Montreal. But a little later 
Father Marest renewed the enterprise and in 1714 the 
French fort was re-established, thoug-h in a small way. 



It may have been at this time that the fort was removed 
to the main land upon a site near the present villag-e of 
Mackinaw City, althoug-h that is uncertain. But in 
this desultory w^ay these settlements were continued un- 
til 1760, when the whole country passed forever out of 
the hands of the French to become a part of the British 
possessions in America. 

(7) The Period of British Possession — With the 
surrender of Montreal in 1760 the Mackinac reg-ion be- 
came a part of British possessions in America, and so 
remained until after the Revolutionary war (1795). On 
g-aining- possession, the Eng-lish were peremptory, 
arrog-ant and unyielding-. They made no effort to win 
the reg-ard of the Indians, treating them with haug-hty 
indifference. This was in g-reat contrast to the g-enial 
conduct of the French, who not only continually asso- 
ciated with the Indians, but freely intermarried among- 
them. The result was a succession of encounters be- 
tween the English and Indians ending often in blood- 
shed, and daily increasing the enmit}^ between them. 
The French people, many of whom remained, lost no 
opportunity to fan these fires of hatred. It was during 
this time (in 1761) that Alexander Henry, a daring 
English trader, made his first and thrilling visit to 
Mackinac and became an eye-witness to the awful 
massacre at the old fort at Mackinaw City. 

In 1763 the Pontiac Conspiracy was formed. It 
was nothing less than a concerted attack by all the 
Indians upon all Englishmen. It was to reach from 
Detroit to the utmost frontier, and its design and execu- 
tion indicate extraordinary courage and large military 
genius. Pontiac, a daring chief, full of revenge for 
wrongs real or imaginary against his tribe, was the 
originator of the conspiracy. On the 4th of June the 
massacre occurred. Bv a preconcerted plan, the Indians, 

139 



while playing- a g-ame of ball (bag--g-at-i-way) knocked 
a ball inside the fort. Captain Ethering-ton and other 



watching" 



the g-ame, 
moment the ball 



officers were invited g-uests, and 

were completely oif their g-uard. The 

entered the fort a sig-nal of attack was g-iven and the 

massacre occurred. One officer and fifteen men were 

killed. The others, after many thrilling experiences, 

made their escape, finally reaching- Montreal. 

After the massacre the old fort was inhabited only 
by Indians and occasional traders for several years. 
Later on a detachment of troops ag-ain took possession 
of this fort which, in 1780, was removed from Mackinaw 
City to Mackinac 

Island once more. - ". 

At this time the old 
block house now 
standing-, was built, 
the fort was g-radu- 
ally enlarg-ed and 
strengthened and the 
beg^innings of a per- 
manent settlement 
were made. 

In 1783 the Northwest 
Fur Co. (British) was es- 
tablished, to be succeeded 
later (1811) by the Amer- 
ican Fur Co. under John 
Jacob Astor. After the 
victory of the United States 
over Great Britain, this 
region passed from British 

possession but was not actually given up b}^ the English 
until 1795. 




^ 



"*# 



140 



(8) Period of American Possession — Althoug-h as 
a result of victories gained elsewhere, Mackinac Island 
came peacably unto the possession of the United States, 
it was not destined to remain there without a strug-g-le. 
In 1783, by the treaty of Paris, Mackinac became a part 
of the United States, but recognizing- its importance and 
loathe to give it up, by one pretext or another the 
British retained possession until 1795, when their forces 
retired to St. Joseph's Island in the Sault Ste. Marie 
River. 

After the American occupation of Fort Mackinac 
the life of the Island went on much as before, the chief 
events of interest being the annual arrival and depar- 
ture of the hunters, traders, Indians and troops. When 
war was declared in 1812 the British at once undertook 
to recapture Fort Mackinac. Accordingly, a force of 
306 whites and 718 Indians started from the fort at St. 
Joseph's Island for this purpose. The American forces 
under command of Lieutenant Porter Hanks amounted 
to only 57 effective men, and as a massacre by the In- 
dians of men, women and children upon the slightest 
show of resistance was sure to occur, the fort was sur- 
rendered without the firing of a single gun on July 7th, 
1812. From this time to 1815 (the close of the war) the 
Island and fort were once again in the possession of the 
British. They immediately strengthened the existing 
fortifications and built upon the high eminence a new 
redoubt which they called Fort George in honor of the 
reigning king, but which was later known as Fort 
Holmes in honor of Lieut. Holmes who fell bravely in 
the battle of 1814. 

In 1814 an attempt was made by the Americans, 
flushed by the splendid victories of Commodore Perry, 
to recapture Fort Mackinac. The history of that 

141 



expedition does not, apparently, reflect great credit upon 
the military abili-ty or sag-acity of the Americans. 
Starting- out July 3d, 1814, with two sloops of war, four 
schooners and a force of 750 officers and men, instead of 
attacking- Fort Mackinac at once the company was 
divided. Part went to St. Joseph's Island and destroyed 
the British fortifications there, part went to Sault Ste. 
Marie on an unsuccessful expedition for the destruction 
of British food supplies stored there, and it was not 
until July 26th that the fleet arrived off Mackinac 
Island. This delay had g-iven the British ample time 
to streng-then their fortifications, and especially to 
arouse and arm their Indian allies. After various in- 
effective maneuvers it was determined to make a landing 
upon the site known as the British Landing-, and con- 
duct from there a land attack. This was done on the 
4th of Aug-ust, 1814. Meanwhile, the British, having- 
streng-thened their position by great earthworks, occu- 
pied the fort, filling- the woods with Indians. A brave 

attempt was 
made by the 
Americans 
and valliant 
fig-ht offered, 
but under 
such condi- 
tions as to 
make noth- 
ing- possible but defeat — this with the loss of the brave 
and beloved Major Holmes and twelve privates killed, 
with twelve officers and thirty-nine privates wounded. 

After the battle a sieg-e was instituted and a block- 
ade established, and quantities of British supplies were 
destroyed. But ag-ain disaster followed the Americans. 




142 



The Tigress and Scorpion, two sloops of war, were both 
captured by the British and the ill-fated expedition was 
completely broken up. When in 1815, by the treaty of 
Ghent, peace was declared, Mackinac was a^ain peace- 
ably returned, to take its place among- American 
possessions. From that time it was continued as a 
Government post until 1876, when it became a National 
Park; and later, in 1895, a Michig-an state park. Such 
is, in brief, the romantic history of "the Fairy Island." 

2, Mackinac Island 

1. History — The history of Mackinac Island has 
been told in detail in the Introduction immediately pre- 
ceding- this chapter. It may be divided into six periods. 
First, that of aborig-inal inhabitants. Second, that of 
early explorers and missionaries, among- whom the most 
famous were Jean Nicholet 1634, Nicholas Perrot 1665, 
Father Allouez 1669, Father Dablon 1669, Father Mar- 
quette 1671, Father Joliet 1673. Third, period of French 
possession, from 1534 until 1761, whose famous charac- 
ters were La Salle, De Tonty, Cadillac and Father 
Charlevoix. Fourth, period of British possession, from 
1761 to 1795, during- which time the awful massacre of 
the Pontiac Conspiracy at old Mackinac, near the 
present Mackinaw City on the main land, occurred. 
Fifth, period of American possession, from 1795 to the 
present time. bVom 1812 to 1815 the Island was recap- 
tured and held by the British, during- which time 
occurred the eng-ag-ement on Early's Farm. Sixth, the 
fort eventually became a national park and later (1895) 
a state park under the control of a state board appointed 
by the Governor. 

2. Itinerary — The attractions of Mackinac Island 

145 



are numerous, varied and widely scattered. They may 
be grouped as follows : First, places of scenic interest; 
second, places of historic interest; third, places of social 
or resort interest. In visiting- the island time is a con- 
siderable factor and the method of transportation used. 
All these conditions unite to make the construction of a 
single itinerary impossible. We therefore suggest 
several routes which may be combined to suit the tastes 
and convenience of the reader. 

Route I. The Village and Resorts of Mackinac. 

Time, (minimum) : For pedestrians, 1>2 hours. 
By carriage or bicycle, >i hour. 

Leaving the dock, we proceed to the main street 
(one-half block) and turning to the left, passing stores, 
bazaars, etc., proceed for one block, hence to the right 
one block to the John Jacob Astor house; a part of the 
present hotel constitutes the old fur-trading head- 
quarters of the American Fur Co. This establishment 
was bought out by John Jacob Astor, then a young man, 
from the Northwestern Fur Co. (British) in 1811. It 
was for many years the center of an immense fur trade 
and the scene of many thrilling and picturesque inci- 
dents in pioneer life. Its checkered career closed in 
1842. 

Continuing our journey southward (to the left) it is 
a ten minutes walk to the large, beautiful and magnifi- 
cently located Grand Hotel, from whence splendid views 
are had on every side. Thence, back of the hotel, along 
the bluff, are rows of beautiful summer cottages, man}^ 
of them of costly construction. The journey may be 
continued to Lover's Leap (about one mile). 

Lover's Leap, a large rock of pyramidal form, 
standing out precipitously from the bluff. Its legend is 

146 



that the beautiful daug-hter of an Indian chief fell in 
love with a young- Indian of humble birth. The savag-e 
old chief demanded of him some deed of bravery and 
daring- worthy of such a bride. The young- man imme- 
diately org-anized an expedition ag-ainst some enemies 
of his tribe, and after fig-hting- with g-reat bravery, 
perished on the field of battle. The maiden pined in 
sorrow over the death of her lover, and at last leaped to 
her death from this rock after his death she was wont to 
sit melancholy and heartbroken. 

Descending- at this point by a steep staircase to the 
shore, we reach the beautiful boulevard (which skirts 
the shore for three miles to British Landing-) and return 
by this boulevard to the town, passing- en route the 
Devil's Kitchen, a peculiar cave-like hole in a great rock 
made by the action of water, tog-ether with other curious 
rock formations. Thence back to town, a distance of 
about one mile. 

If this route is taken b}^ carriag-e it will, of course, 
be necessary to return from Lover's Leap to the Grand 
Hotel and then proceed along- the boulevard to the 
Devil's Kitchen. Those who are limited for time will 
find it best to g-o no farther than Lover's Leap on the 
boulevard, but returning- from that point to town, pro- 
ceed at once on Route 2. 

Route 2. Including the Fort, Sugar Loaf Arched Rock, and 
Robertson's Folly. 

Time, (minimum): For pedestrians, 2 hours. 
By carriag-e or bicycle, 1 hour. 

Leaving- the dock, we turn up the main street to the 
rig-ht for one block, then climbing- the steep bluff we 
approach Fort Mackinac on the rig-ht. A short way up 
the hill there is a long staircase by which pedestrians 

147 



may ascend to the old block house. Those who drive 
will stop at the first g'ate, and on entering- will do well 
to proceed at once to the old block house, where our 
itinerary commences. 

Port Mackinac. The old block house was built in 
1780 and is a part of the oldest structure of the Fort (see 
pag-e 140). Passing along- the upper path, we notice to 




the left two officer's houses built in 1876, and further on 
the old flag- stand with another g-roup of officers' houses 
erected in 1835. Descending- the steps on the rig-ht, we 
come into the barracks and at once pass a quaint old 
stone building- which was the officers' headquarters in 



148 



1780. The wooden building- on the rig-ht was the hospi- 
tal, and along- the square are located man}^ buildings, 
both old and new, used for various barrack purposes. 
Continuing- to the left to the corner of the Fort, we 
come out upon the old parapet where a mag-nificent 
view is obtained. 

The little island with the lighthouse immediately 
in front, is Round Island with its old Indian burying- 
ground. Returning to the center of the Fort, we come 
out by the south sally-port into the parade grounds, 
now a common and ball ground. Here those driving 
re-enter their carriages and we continue the journey. 

Passing out of the Fort by the old brick powder 
magazine, we turn a little to the left, and thence turn- 
ing to the right at almost right-angles (signboard marked 
"Sugar Loaf") we follow the beautiful road through 
lovely native forests, keeping to the left to (about one 
mile) Sugar Loaf rock. This is a huge pyramidal rock 
towering nearly 140 feet above the ground. It presents 
a singularly striking appearance, both on account of its 
size and isolation. It is the result of the action of 
water and a good illustration of the well-nigh resistless 
floods which once washed these shores. Continuing 
around Sugar Loaf rock, the road curves back through 
beautiful woods about three-fourths of a mile, where we 
turn to the left almost at right-angles, and soon reach 
the far-famed Arched Rock. 

Arched Rock — This strange and picturesque for- 
mation is one of the chief attractions of Mackinac 
Island. The formation of the arch has evidently been 
caused by the wearing away of the rock through vari- 
ous denuding forces during long geological periods. At 
present the columns supporting the arch on the north 
side are comparatively small and weak, and the strength 

149 



of the arch itself is so uncertain that the crossing- is 
dang-erous and forbidden. The arch stands 149 feet 
above the level of the lake and presents a most striking- 
and picturesque appearance from any point of view. 

Robertson's Folly — Returning- to the main road, 
the journey may be continued at once to the bluff, over- 
looking- the town at Robertson's Folly, a precipitous 
cliif. It was over this cliff, the leg-end says, that a 
young- English officer leaped in mad infatuation over a 
beautiful but phantom maiden. 

The return is quickly made, with beautiful views, 
passing- the handsome cottag-es of East End, to the town. 

Route 3. Early's Farm— British Landing. 

Time, (minimum): For pedestrians, 3 hours. 
By carriag-e or bicycle, iy2 hours. 

While this trip is very interesting- and beautiful, it 
may be omitted by those whose time is limited without 
any real loss. Its chief interest centers in the historic 
associations of the battlefield of 1814. Passing- out of 
the old fort by the brick powder mag-azine, follow the 
left road, passing-, in a short time, the old cemeteries, 
the catholic on the left, the military and protestant on 
the rig-ht. Just before reaching- the cemeteries we pass 
Skull Cave, a deep hole in the base of a gTeat rock, the 
place where Alexander Henry, the intrepid British fur 
trader, lay in hiding- for many days after the massacre 
of Pontiac's conspiracy at old Fort Mackinac, and which 
he found full of human bones and skulls. 

Beyond the cemeteries we cross another road (lead- 
ing- to the Grand Hotel) at rig-ht ang-les, and soon come 
in sig-ht of the Early Farms. To the left in the clearing- 
is the site of the battlefield. The earthwork ridg-es are 
easily noted as we cross them. To the rig-ht in the 

150 



front yard of the first farm house is a pile of stones, 
and among- the stones may be seen many relics of this 
battle, among- them three eig-hteen-pound cannon balls 
fired from the British g-uns. See pag-e 141. 

Beyond the battlefield the road sweeps on across 
the Island to the British Landing-, and from there the 
return journey may be made along- the shore by the fine 
boulevard to town. 

There are many other points of minor attraction on 
Mackinac Island. These will naturally come to the 
attention of the visitor who remains on the Island for 




any leng-th of time. To those whose stay is short, how- 
ever, even their enumeration would be confusing- rather 
than helpful. The routes outlined above are arrang-ed 
to cover all the chief points of interest in the most 
feasible way and shortest time. Those who have more 
time at their disposal can, of course, make these itiner- 
aries more leisurely and expand them indefinitely. 



151 



3, Nearer Environs of Mackinac, 

1. Mackinac City — A little villag-e chiefly im- 
portant as a railroad terminus. The Grand Rapids & 
Indiana and Michig-an Central R. R. have a union depot 
here and connect, by means of immense ferry steamers, 
the St. Ig-nace and St. Marie, with the Duluth, South 
Shore & Atlantic Railway- at St. Ig-nace. These boats 




are worthy of special notice. They carr^' a train of 
sixteen cars at once and are so constructed as to crush 
their passag-e throug-h the thickest ice with ease, thus 
continuing- the service without interruption summer and 
winter. See cut page 156. 

152 



Mackinaw City is a small villag-e situated upon the 
most northerly point of the lower peninsula. Visitors 
will keep in mind, however, that the railroad dock faces 
not north, but almost due east. Looking out from the 
dock the mainland stretches in a pretty bay on the 
rig-ht hand side. Directly in front and distant about 
eight miles, lies Bois Blanc (pronounced "Bob-low"') 
Island. A little beyond, to the north, lies Mackinac 
Island with Round Island between. Beyond this an 
immense round lighthouse will be seen standing in an 
isolated position upon one of the smaller islands of St. 
Martin's Bay. While to the left hand, due north, lies 
St. Ignace and the upper peninsula. If time permits, a 
stroll through Mackinaw City will be interesting. 
Crossing the Grand Rapids & Indiana tracks, the visitor 
should pass the little M. E. Church, and follow west- 
ward along the shore to the lighthouse, a distance of 
about two miles. At this point the narrowest passage 
of the straits is reached and an imposing view of pass- 
ing shipage enjoyed. The distance to the opposite 
shore is four miles. Here, too, is the site of the old 
Fort Mackinac where the massacre of Pontiac's Con- 
spiracy occured in 1763 (see page 139). 

2. St. Ignace — An interesting cit}- known in 
native parlance as "Shoestring town" because it con- 
sists almost entirely of one long street extending for 
four miles along the shore. At the most southern point 
is the old Martell blast furnace for reducing iron ore to 
pig iron, but not now in operation. Man}' beautiful 
drives can be had about St. Ignace, the roads being 
especially fine. 

From St. Ignace to Rabbit's Back, a bold blulf up 
the shore, north from St. Ignace (4 miles), much of the 
scener}" vies with that of Mackinac Island. And another 

153 



fine drive is across the point to the Lake Michig-an 
shore and thence west along- the shore road indefinitely, 
passing- (at 4 miles) the imposing- Eag-le's Nest rock 
which is almost the counterpart and fully the equal of 
Sug-ar Loaf on Mackinac Island. The roads about St. 
Ig-nace are specially attractive for bicyclers and a few 
days stay will well repay the visitor. 

St. Ig-nace was settled by the Indians even earlier 
than Mackinac Island. It was always a favorite rendez- 
vous for Indians and traders, and was the site of the 




The Eagle's Nest Rock, St. Ignace. 

Jesuit mission begun in 1671. It is especially note- 
worthy as the home of Father Marquette, and here, 
years later, his body was borne in state for final burial. 
The g-rave of Father Marquette may be found by walk- 
ing- to the far (north) end of town where, on a side 

1=^4 



street, about half a block to the left, may be seen the 
modest shaft which marks this g-reat man's resting- 
place, surrounded by a plain white picket fence. 

James Marquette was born in Picardy, France, in 
1637. He came to St. Ignace in 1668 and founded the 
St. Ig-natius mission. His "Relations" — reports sent to 
Jesuit headquarters at Paris — form a priceless history of 
these early times. For four years Marquette conducted 
this mission, traveling- from St. Ig-nace to Sault Ste. 
Marie and winning- everywhere the love and confidence 
of all, especially the Indians. In 1672 he received, to 
his g-reat joy, a commission from the French Govern- 
ment of Canada to accompany Father Joliet on the 
voyag-e of discovery to the Mississippi River. He started 
on the 17th of May, 1673, and paddling in birch-bark 
canoes across Lake Michigan to the foot of Green Bay, 
the party entered the P^ox River, reached the portage, 
then traveled across Wisconsin for fifty miles to the 
Wisconsin River which they followed nearly one hun- 
dred miles and reached its mouth, where it enters the 
Mississippi at a point just below Prairie du Chien on 
the I7th of June — just one month later. They explored 
the Mississippi to a point below the mouth of the 
Arkansas River, a distance of nearly a thousand miles, 
and returned by way of the Illinois River to Lake Mich- 
igan, hence northward to Green Bay again which they 
reached in September of the same year. 

In 1674 Marquette sailed once more to the foot of 
Lake Michigan (Chicago) and in May, 1675, conscious 
that his strength was failing fast, he determind to 
return to his old home at St. Ignace to die. He was 
able to get only as far as a little stream near Sleeping 
Bear Point now known as Pierre Marquette River, 
where he became so feeble that he could travel no more. 

155 



Tender!}' tlie Indians lifted him from the canoe and 
placed him in a hastily prepared wig-wam. Here, in a 
few hours, he. died, and here his sorrowing- companions 
buried him. Two years later an imposing- array of 
thirty canoes set forth to that lonely g-rave and, disin- 
terring the beloved remains, they broug-ht them back in 
high state to his old home at St. Ig-nace where, on June 
9th, 1677, they were buried in the old mission church. 
This church was afterwards (1706) burned, bu^ many 
years later (1877) the foundations of the old church were 
discovered and beneath them the remains of Marquette. 
The present monument was erected upon this sacred and 
historic spot, the site of the old church, July 7th, 1895. 




3. Lks Cheneau (familiarly known as "The 
Snows")^ — A beautiful g-roup of over one hundred islands 
lying- between Mackinac Island and Detour, fourteen 
miles from Mackinac Island. Steamers run daily from 
St. Ig-nace and the Island to the Snows. A journey 
throug-h this exquisite archipelag-o is most beautiful, 
with its maze of winding- channels. Numerous beauti- 
ful resorts have been established en route and the fish- 
ing- is exceptionally fine. 

156 



4. From Mackinac Island to Sault Ste, Marie. 

By Steamer via the Sault Ste. Marie River. 

One of the most interesting- and beautiful trips in 
Northern Michig-an. The scenery of the "Soo" River 
rivals much of the scenery of the Hudson River, while 
the peculiarities of its navig-ation afford constant, absorb- 
ing-, interest. The river is the connecting hig-hway for 
the enormous shipping- of Lake Super- 
ior and millions of dollars have been 
spent by the Government in the per- 
fection and annual maintenance of its 
navig-ation. Added to the 
natural ^eaut}" of its shores is 
the imposing- proces- 
sion of ships of all 
descriptions that are 
passed en route. 

Leaving- Mackinac 
Island, the steamer 
skirts the southeast- 
ern corner of the 
Island, affording- line 
views of the villag-e, 
Robertson's Folly 
and the whole north- 
east shore. The 
course is almost due 
east (in nautical parlance east one-half north) to Detour, 
a distance of 40 miles. The little island opposite Mack- 
inac, with its pretty lig-hthouse, is Round Island an old 
and favorite rendezvous of the Indians, where is located 
an interesting- old Indian burying- g-round. The long- 
island, which mig-ht easily be mistaken for a part of the 

157 




mainland to the rig-ht, beyond Round Island is Bois 
Blanc (pronounced "Bob-blow") Island and we follow in 
sig-ht of its shores for sixteen miles, while away to the 
left lies the mainland of the upper peninsula with the 
beautiful archipelago of Les Cheneau Islands ("Snows") 
between. 

After passing- the further point of Bois Blanc 
Island, the great lig-hthouse of Spectacle Reef appears 
to the rig-ht in the distance. This very dang-erous reef 
is one mile long- and three-eig-hts of a mile wide, run- 
ing- due east and west with an averag-e shoal depth of 
two feet. The lig-hthouse is one of the first order and 
has a white lig-ht varied by a red flash. The ship soon 
rounds Detour Point with its tall white lig-hthouse, and 
enters the mouth of the "Soo" river, passing- a g-reat 
iron buoy with larg-e, arched framework above. This is 
known as a g-as buoy. There are four of them in the 
river. They are charg-ed with illuminating- g-as suffici- 
ent to burn for eig-ht months, the reg-ular navig-ation 
season, and have a lig-ht which burns continuously day 
and nig-ht. The light is equipped with a perfect and 
ing-enius machinery whereby it becomes a flash-lig-ht, 
burning- for ten seconds out of every minute, with an in- 
termission of fifty seconds. As we reach Detour we pass 
close to a little island known as Fr3'ing--pan Island, 
upon which is built a small range light. The Arnold 
line of steamers stops at this quaint little town of 
Detour with its four great docks, but other steamers 
make no stops on the river. 

Approaching Detour the entrance to the river 
presents an imposing sight. Before us lies a bewilder- 
ing archipelago of beautiful islands, large and small,, 
whose channels stretch away into the far distance. To 
the right is the large Drummond's Island, the site of an 

158 



old Mormon settlement. Immediately ahead is Pipe 
Island, and be3'Ond that the long- and narrow Lime 
Island, while in the further distance the high hills of 
St. Joseph's Island (Canada) afford a conspicuous land- 
mark. The numerous other islands are not named. 

Leaving- Detour, the course leads past Pipe Island, 
with a lighthouse, and deflects a little westward to 
round Lime Island, whose bank it closely skirts, passing 
in time the pretty resort of Lime Island Club (Daven- 
port's). We now pass between Lime Island on the right 
and a smaller island on the left, and And the highlands 
of St. Joseph Island dead ahead. St. Joseph's Island is 
the largest in the river and belongs to Canada. It was 
to this island that the British troops retreated on the 
evacuation of Fort Mackinac in 1795, and from this 
island the British expedition started to recapture Fort 
Mackinac in 1812. 

The steamer follows the coast of St. Joseph's for 
its entire length, when turning sharply eastward at the 
southern end of Nebish, it passes into a narrow channel 
with Sailors' Encampment on the right (so called be- 
cause here, many years ago, a schooner's crew found 
themselves ice-bound and were obliged to encamp here 
for the whole winter). 

At this point the channel grows very narrow, and 
as we round the edge of Nebish Island, an Indian word 
meaning "maple leaf," a little house may be seen close 
to the shore with a flag-pole on the point. This is the 
headquarters of the Government "River-Patrol," con- 
sisting of a guard of four men and one officer, detailed 
by the United States Navy to patrol the river princi- 
pally to enforce the rule of navig-ation requiring that 
boats shall not travel faster than nine miles an hour 
while in the narrower channels. A heavy fine is im- 

159 



posed upon any vessel disobeying- this rule and the 
g-uard are constantly, thoug-h secretly, on the watch to 
see that it is not disobeyed. From the fla^-pole may be 
sometimes seen hang-ing- a larg-e white ball, which indi- 
cates that a steamer is approaching- around the bend in 
the opposite direction. From this point many and 
various buoys will be noted, a description of which may 
be interesting-. 

The stick buoys are tall spars, those painted red 
marking the starboard or rig-ht side of the channel, 
those painted black the port or left side. Those with 
alternate red and black ring-s indicate g-ood water on 
either side. Larg-e wooden rang-es, diamond shape and 
painted white, will be noticed on the shores. The g-as 
bouys have already been mentioned. Other lig-hts, 
rang-es, etc. will easily indicate for themselves their use. 

Continuing- throug-h the narrow channel, the head 
of St. Joseph's Island is soon reached, around which 
there swings to the right the Canadian channel from 
Georgian Bay. Ahead lies the old Sugar Island channel 
which, up to five years ago, was the regular course of 
all steamers. Now vessels usually turn to the left and 
enter the narrow and interesting Hay Lake channel. 
This lies between Sugar Island and Nebish. It is very 
narrow and the current is very swift, breaking in several 
places into rapids. The artificial channel was cut out 
of the solid rock sixteen feet deep and built up with big 
dikes on the right, at an expense to the Government of 
more than three million dollars. It took nearly twelve 
years to complete the task, and even now dredges will 
be found at work at the finishing touches. This chan- 
nel has been in use for five seasons and saves a distance 
of twelve miles between Detour and Sault Ste. Marie. 

Beyond Hay Lake channel the steamer enters the 

160 



long-, narrow Ha}^ Lake, and following- the shores of 
Sug-ar Island, a long- narrow island lying- at the head of 
the river, it reaches, at the far end, the channel which 
narrows down to the dimensions of a canal and is very 
picturesque. Beyond this it broadens out into a consid- 
erable lake, and with a sharp turn westward sweeps up 
to the rapids with a fine approach to the two cities of 
Sault Ste. Marie, Canadian and American, Ivinof on 
either side. 





Wreck of the "Mark Hopkins" in Hay Lakh Ciiannkl 




161 



Sault Ste, Marie, 

1. History — The history of Sault Ste. Marie is 
intimately connected with earh^ Indian pioneer life in 
this country, a narrative of which will be found in the 
Introduction of this Part. In addition it may be noted 
of Sault Ste. Marie that the early fishing and camping- 
grounds were along the rapids. It was first claimed by 
the French in 1641. In that year a Jesuit mission 
station was established under Raymbault and Joques. 
In 1671 occurred a great pageant — a gathering of all 
tribes and peoples to acknowledge allegience to the 
King of France. This was done with great pomp and 
ceremony. The original copy of the Process-Verbal 
used in this ceremony is found in the Jesuit "Relations" 
of 1671. We reprint it here as affording a vivid glimpse 
of these stirring and picturesque pioneer times. 

PROCESS- VERBAL. 

"Simon Francois Dumont, esquire, Sieur de Saint Lussou, 
commissioned subdeleg-ate of Monseig^neur, thelntendant of New 
France. . . . 

"In accordance with the orders we have received from 
Monseigneur, the Intendant of New France, the 3d of last 
July.... to immediately proceed to the country of the Indian 
Outaouais, Nez-percez, Illinois, and other nations, discovered 
and to be discovered, in North America, in the region of Lake 
Superior or Mer-Donce (Huron), to make there search and dis- 
covery of mines of all sorts, especially of copper, ordering us 
moreover to take possession in the name of the king of all the 
country, inhabited or not inhabited, through which we may 
pass.... We, in virtue of our commission, have made our first 
disembarkment at the village or burg of Sainte Marie du Sault, 
the place where the Rev. Jesuit Fathers make their mission, and 
where the Indian tribes, called Achipoes, Malamechs, Noguets, 
and others, make their actual abode. We have convoked there 

163 



as many other tribes as it was in our power to assemble, and 
they met there to the number of fourteen tribes, namely the 
Achipoes, Malatnechs, Noguets, Banabeoueks, Makomiteks, 
Poulteatemis, Oumaloumines, Sassaouacottons, dwelling- at the 
Bay called that of the Puants (Green Bay), and who have taken 
it upon themselves to make it (treaty) known to their neig^hbors, 
who are the Illinois, Mascouttins, Outagamis, and other nations; 
also the Christinos, Assinipouals, Aumossomiks, Outaouais- 
Couscottons, Niscaks, Maskwikoukiaks, all of them inhabiting- 
the countries of the North and near the sea, who have charged 
themselves with making- it known to their neighbors, who are 
believed to be in great numbers dwelling near the shores of the 
same sea. We have caused this, our said commission, to be read 
to them in the presence of the Rev. Fathers of the Society of 
Jesus, and of all the Frenchmen named below, and have had 
it interpreted by Nicholas Perrot, interpreter of His Majesty in 
this matter, in order that they may not be able (to claim) to be 
ignorant of it Having then caused a cross to be erected to pro- 
duce there the fruits of Christianity, and near it a cedar pole, to 
which we have attached the arms of France, saying three times 
with a loud voice and public proclamation, that IN THE NAME 
OF THE MOST HIGH, MOST POWERFUL, AND MOST 
REDOUBTABLE MONARCH, LOUIS XIV. OF NAME, MOST 
CHRISTIAN KING OF FRANCE AND NAVARRE, we take 
possession of said place, Sainte Marie du Sault. as also of the 
Lakes Huron and Superior, the Island of Caientation (Manilou- 
line), and of all other lands, rivers, lakes and streams contiguous 
to and adjacent here, as well discovered as to be discovered, 
which are bounded on the one side by the seas of the North and 
West, and on the other side by the sea of the South, in its whole 
length or depth, taking up at each of the said three proclamations 
a sod of earth, crying 'Vive le Roy !' and causing the same to be 
cried by the whole assembly, as well French as Indians, declar- 
ing to the said nations aforesaid and hereafter that from hence- 
forth they were to be proteges (subjects) of His Majesty, subject 
to obey his laws and follow his customs, promising them all pro- 
tection and succor on his part against the incursion and invasion 
of their enemies, declaring to all other potentates, sovereign 
princes, as well States as Republics, to them or their subjects, 
that they neither can nor shall seize upon or dwell in any place 
of this country, unless with the good pleasure of his said most 

164 



Christian Majesty, and of him wlio shall g-overn the land in his 
name, under penalt^^ of incurring- his hatred and the efforts of 
his arms. And that none may ])retend ignorance of this tran- 
saction, we have now attached on the reverse side of the arms of 
France our Process-Verbal of the taking- possession, sig^ned by 
ourselves and the persons below named, who were all present. 

' Done at Sainte Marie du Sault, the 14th day of June, in the 
the year of g-race 1671. 

"Daumont de Saint Lusson." 
(Then follow the sig-nature of the witnesses ) 

In 1750 the first fort was built to prevent the Indians 
of Lake Superior from intercourse with the British 
settlements of New York and the east. In 1762 the 
British took peaceable possession of the fort, and only 
reluctantly relinquished their claim upon it after the 
Revolutionary War. As late as 1820 Gov. Cass, of 
Michigan, found a British flag- still floating on the Amer- 
ican side, and it was against the angry protests of the 
inhabitants that he pulled it down and replaced it with 
an American flag. 

2. Itinerary — Sault Ste. Marie, meaning "Falls 
of St. Marie," and usually called "The Soo,"' is a pleasant 
city having, in 1894, a population of 7244. The princi- 
pal points of interest to the tourist are Fort Brady, the 
Locks and the Rapids. A stroll through the city and 
visit to the quaint little Canadian "Soo" across the 
river (ferryboat once an hour) should, of course, be 
added. 

Fort Brady, situated above the locks on a beautiful 
eminence about half a mile to the west, is quite exten- 
sive in its appointments and will be a point of great 
interest to the visitor. The ceremony of raising the 
flag at sunrise and lowering it at sunset will be found 
of special interest. 

The Canal and Locks. This imposing piece of 

165 



eng-itieering- skill commands more than passing- interest. 
As early as 1838 an appropriation was made by the 
State of Michig-an for a ship canal and work was beg-un. 
The General Government, however, interfered, consider- 
ing- the undertaking- an infring-ement upon the rig-hts of 
the United States. In 1852 an Act was passed appro- 
priating- 750,000 acres of land for this enterprise, and in 
1853 the work was beg-un. The locks, two in number. 




were constructed 350 feet long, 70 feet wide with a draft 
of 12 feet. The canal was opened May 21st, 1855, hav- 
ing- cost one million dollars. In 1881 a new United 
States Government lock was completed taking- the place 
of the old state locks, the first of which was built 515 
feet long, 80 feet wide, (60 feet at the gates) with a 



166 



draft of lb feet, while the second lock, only recently 
completed, is 800 feet long- and 100 feet wide. The 
total depth of the canal is 43 feet, and the locks have a 
lift of 18 feet and take eleven minutes to fill or empty. 
The total cost of this immense structure was more than 
seven million dollars. The annual tonnag-e throug-h the 
Soo canal exceeds that of the Suez canal by nearly two 
million tons. In 1890 the tonnag-e passing- throug-h this 
canal was eig-ht and a half millions, the value of its 
freight being- estimated at over one hundred and two 
million dollars. 

The Rapids. The fall from Lake Superior to Lake 
Huron is twenty feet, the fall of St. Marie's rapids 
eig-hteen feet. One of the most exciting- experiences to 
the visitor is to "shoot" these rapids in an Indian canoe. 
There is not the least dang-er in this adventure and it 
affords an experience never to be forg-otten. Arrang-e- 
ments for this trip should be made at the hotels. In the 
rapids the Indians are constantly fishing- and it is fas- 
cinating- to watch them at their work. 



167 



ROUND TRIP RATES 

FOR SUMMER OF 1898. 

Tourist tickets to all Northern Michig-an resorts are on sale at all coupon ticket 
offices, June 1st to September 30th, g-ood returning- until October 31st. 

Stop off is allowed on these tickets at all points, subject to conditions pertaining- 
on roads issuing- tickets. 

Rates from principal places are g-iven below. Further information and rates 
from other points may be had on application to ticket agents. These rates are 
approximate and are subject to change. 

Bagg-ag-e to the extent of one hundred and fifty (150) pounds will be checked free 
on full fare, and seventj'-five (75) pounds on half-fare (children's) tickets. 



STATIONS 



Battle Creek Mich . 

Buffalo N. Y. 

Cairo 111. 

Chattanoog-a Tenn. 

Chicago (all rail) 111. 

Chicago (viaGoodrichlineandG'dHVen; "■ 

-"■■C hicag-o ( Circle tour) " 

Cincinnati Ohio. 

Cleveland " 

Cleveland (via D. & C. and Detroit) . . " 

Columbus '* 

Dayton " 

Detroit Mich . 

Fort Wa3me Ind . 

Grand Rapids .Mich . 

Hannibal Mo. 

Indianapolis Ind . 

J ackson Mich . 

Lansing "■ 

Lexington Ky . 

Louisville "' 

Memphis Tenn. 

Mobile Ala. 

Montgomery " 

New Orleans La . 

Pittsburg Pa . 

South Bend Ind. 

Springfield Ill . 

Springfield Ohio. 

St . Louis Mo. 

Terre Haute Ind . 

Toledo Ohio. 

Wheeling W. Va. 



$12 55 
22 05 
32 25 
34 25 

17 25 

15 85 

13 65 
20 25 

18 65 

16 10 

19 35 

19 35 
12 60 
15 75 

10 00 
28 05 

20 25 
12 55 

11 45 
24 25 

24 00 
38 95 
47 25 
45 25 
50 25 

25 55 

14 30 
25 00 

19 35 
25 50 

20 25 
14 35 
24 35 



O O "* 

Z W M O 

K. K 'x as 

9 ^ Sw 

O O >r, Y-i 

« M g,K 

« K U < 

< < " O 



SIO 40 

21 25 
30 10 
32 25 
15 10 
13 70 

12 05 
18 25 

17 25 
15 35 

18 35 
18 25 
11 85 

13 55 
7 90 

25 90 
18 25 

11 60 
9 55 

22 25 

22 00 
36 80 
45 10 
43 25 
48 10 
24 55 

12 15 

23 65 

18 25 

24 40 

19 50 
12 95 
23 35 



H > 
W < 
CUM 



$10 15 

21 00 
29 85 
32 00 

14 85 
13 45 

12 05 
18 00 

17 00 

15 10 

18 10 
18 00 
11 60 

13 30 
7 65 

25 65 
18 00 
11 35 
9 30 

22 00 
21 75 
36 55 
44 85 
43 00 
47 85 
24 30 

11 90 

23 40 

18 00 

24 15 

19 25 

12 70 
23 10 



$ 8 35 

19 95 
28 05 
31 00 
13 05 

11 25 

12 05 

17 00 

15 35 

13 25 

16 25 
16 25 

9 75 
11 50 

5 80 
23 85 
16 15 

9 55 

7 45 

21 00 

20 65 
34 75 
43 05 
42 00 
46 05 

22 45 

10 10 

21 60 
16 25 

23 65 

18 10 

11 05 
21 25 



Omena $1.25 more than Traverse City. 

Neahtavvanta 40 cents more than Traverse City. 

*V^ia steamship Manitou in one direction, other direction by rail. 



168 



HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES, 



HOTEL AND MANAGER 



HAY VIEW 

Bay View House C. W. Childs 

Howard J W. Howard 

Cottag-es M. V. Brown 

Cottages J . H Purvis 

Cottag-es E. F. Meech 

Cottag-es Chas. Powell 

Cottag-es Jos. N ash 

Cottag-es Mrs. C. A. Fellows 

Cottages Mrs. E. A. Day 

Cottages Mrs. A. W. Bushee 

Cottages Mrs. Compton 

Cottag-es Mrs. Frain 

Cottag-es Mrs. Milo Lewis 

Cottages Mrs. Hodgman 

BURT LAKE 

Cottages Mrs. E. H. Sagrer 

Cottages John Johnson 

Cottag-es Geo. Voigtlander 

BEAR LAKE 

Hotel Mizer C. S. Mizer 

Cottages Jos. McConell 

BELLAIRE 

Waldmere Williams & Bump 

CHARLEVOIX 

The Inn B T. Osborn 

Chicago Resort W. Patty 

Belvedere R. P. Foley 

Fountain City J. H Messier 

Bartlett Dr. L. B. Bartlett 

Cottages C. Y Cook 

Cottages Wm. M. Miller 

Cottages Mrs. L. Blanchard 

Cottages Mrs. Nelson Ainslee 

Cottages Mrs. O. S. Washburn 

Cottages Mrs. Harriet West 

Cottages Mrs. Harrison Bedford 

Cottages Mrs. Fred Smith 

Cottages Mrs. C. Lamoreaux 

Cottages Mrs G«o. Eagleton 

Cottages Mrs. Chas. Newman 

Cottages W. H. Francis 

Cottages P. D. Campbell 

Cottages Mrs. G. O. Scott 

CHEBOYGAN. 

Read H. S. Read 

New Cheboygan 

Summit R.N. Hyde 

EDGEWOOD 

Cottages M rs. Lathrop 

Cottages Miss Lewis 

ELLSWORTH 
Orient 

ELK RAPIDS 
Lake View T. E. Sharp 



150 
100 



7.S 



R.ATE 

Per Day 



$2 00 
2 00 



Rate 
Per Week 



1 50 



S 8 00— $14 00 
700— 12 00 
. . on application 
. . on application 
..on application 
. .on application 
. on application 
. .on application 
. .on application 
..on application 
..on application 
.on application 
. . on application 
. .on application 



on application 
on application 
7 00— $10 00 



7 00— 10 00 
7 00— 10 00 



1 00- 1 50 



14 00 - 28 00 



14 00 

10 00— 14 00 




on application 
on application 
on apylication 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on api)lication 
on application 
on application 




on application 
on application 



4 00— 10 0) 



HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES, 



HOTEL AND MANAGER 



EMMET BEACH 

Emmet Beach E. I. Ferg-uson 

FOUNTAIN POINT 

Fountain Point 

HARBOR POINT 

Harbor Point Club 

HARBOR SPRINGS 

Dewey W. H Dewe}' 

Emmet E. I. Ferg-uson 

INDIAN RIVER 

A Icove 

LES CHENEAUX ISLANDS 

Islington Mclbers & Co. 

Elliott A.H. Beach 

LIxME ISLAND 

Lime Island Hotel F. O. Davenport 

MACKINAC ISLAND 

Grand J. R. Hayes 

Jno. Jacob Aster Jno. Bog-an 

Island House Mrs. R. Van A. Webster 

Mission House Frank Bros 

New Mackinac F. R. Emerick 

New Murray D Murray 

New Chicag-o Jno. Hoban 

Bennett Hall Mrs. F. M. Bennett 

New Lake View C. C. Cable 

Cottag-es Miss Mary Doud 

Cottages Miss Amanda Hoban 

Cottag-es Mrs. S. B. Poole 

Cottages Mrs. Belle Gallagher 

Cottages Mrs A. E. Davis 

Cottages Miss Mollie Todd 

Cottages Mrs. McNally 

MACKINAW CITY 

Wentworth M. C. R. R. Co 

Stimpson C. C. Parkis 

MARQUETTE 

Hotel Superior 

New Clifton 

M arquette 

NEAHTAWANTA 

Neahtawanta S. A . Smith 

NORTHPORT 

Waukazoo Robt. Campbell 

OLD MISSION 
Hedden Hall 

OMENA 

Leelanaw 

Omena Inn Mrs J. A. Breas 

ODEN 
Rawdon's J. D. Rawdon 



75 

70 

200 



200 
40 



100 

75 



50 



700 
200 
200 
200 
150 
150 
100 
100 
175 



300 
150 
150 



100 

75 



175 
150 



150 



Rate 
Per Day 



S2 00 



2 50— $4 00 



2 50- 3 00 
1 00- 1 50 



2 00 



2 00— 2 50 
2 00 



2 00 



3 00— 5 00 
2 50- 3 00 

2 00— 3 00 

3 00 

2 50— 3 00 
2 00— 3 00 
2 00— 2 50 
2 50 - 3 00 
2 50— 3 00 



Ratr 
Per Week 



$ 8 00— $10 00 

7 50— 12 00 

17 50— 24 00 



12 00— 16 00 
5 00- 7 00 



10 00— 12 00 



12 00 



14 00- 17 50 
14 00 - 17 50 

14 00— 17 00 

15 00- 18 00 
15 00— 18 00 



14 00— 20 00 
14 00— 17 00 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 



2 25 

1 50 

2 50— 3 00 
2 00— 3 00 
2 00- 3 00 

2 tX) 

1 50— 2 00 

1 50 

2 50 
2 00 

1 50- 2 00 



10 00 

6 00— 9 00 

7 00 10 00 



10 00 - 14 00 
8 00— 10 00 



HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES, 



HOTEL AND MANAGER 



PETOSKEY 

New Arling-ton . .S H. Peck 

Imperial C. E. Christiancy, Jr. 

Cushman Cushman & Lewis 

Occidental J. E. Vermilva 

Park N. J. Perry 

Oriental .Hunt & Waite 

National Geo. Marshall 

Clifton J. A. C. Rowan 

Bang-hart P. D Banghart 

Petrie AM. Petrie 

JExchang-e E. L Labadie 

Cottag-es W. A. Andrews 

Cottag-es A. S. Moyer 

Cottag-es Mrs S S. Gag-e 

Cottag-es F. J. W. Stone 

Cottag^es J. P. Benedict 

Cottag-es W. F. Lawton 

Cottag-es Mrs. L J. Ing-alls 

Cottag-es Mrs. B F Gates 

Cottag-es Mrs Lydia Nichols 

Cottages Mrs. A. A.Beaman 

Cottag-es Frank Wilmarth 

Cottag-es Thos. Chamberlin 

Cottages C E. Cushman 

Cottag-es Mrs. Jane McKenzie 

Cottag-es H. H. Van Gorder 

Cottag-es Mrs. J. P. Mynard 

Cottages Mrs. A. R. Clark 

Cottages J S. King 

Cottages O J. Belknap 

Cottages M D Wingate 

Cotteges Geo. Williams 

Cottages J. A. Gardner 

Cottages Mrs. M. A. Lucas 

POINT AUX PINS 
The Pines 

ROARING BROOK 
The Inn RE. Park 

SATLT STE. MARIE 

Iroquis Guy D . Welton 

New Park 

Arlington 

ST. IGNACE 

The Russell W. M. Spice 

Cottages Mrs. Tamlyn 

Cottages Mrs Grant 

Cottages Mrs. C. S. Carr 

Cottages Mrs. Sheldon 

TRAVERSE CITY 

Park Place W. O. Holden 

Whiting E. C. Compton 

TRAVERSE BEACH 

Traverse Beach Hotel 

WEQUETONSING 

Wequetonsing Club 

Cottages Mrs. 0. H. Eaton 



700 

300 

200 

100 

100 

100 

100 

75 

75 

50 

50 



Rate 
Per Day 



200 
100 



100 
150 



S3 00 -$5 00 
2 00— 3 00 
2 00— 3 00 
2 00 

1 50 

2 00 

1 00— 1 50 
1 00— 1 50 
I 50- 2 00 
1 00 



Rate 

Per Week 



S12 00— $18 00 




10 00- 14 00 
7 00— 10 00 
7 00— 10 00 
7 00— 10 00 
7 00— 10 00 
7 00— 10 00 
5 00— 7 00 
. . .rooms only 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 
on application 

10 00— 12 00 

14 00— 21 00 



2 00— 2 50 

1 SO— 2 00 



on applfcation 
on application 
on application 
on application 

12 00— 14 00 
7 00— 10 50 



10 00— 12 00 



700- 12 00 
on application 



INDEX, 

PAGE 

"Ag-ates," Petoskey, . . . . . .99 

Alanson, ....... 127 

Alden, ....... 66 

Amusements — Out-door, ..... 19 

Ann Arbor R. R. . . . . . .34 

Arched Rock, ...... 149 

Archeolog-ical " finds," ...... 38 

Baedecker Guides, ..... 5 

Bag-g-agre, ....... 19 

Battle of 1814, ...... 142, 151 

Bathing-, ....... 20 

Bay Shore, ....... 69 

Bay View, . . . . . .71, 103-105 

Bear Lake, ....... 132 

Beaver Island, ...... 89-92, 122 

Bellaire, . . . . . . . 67, 74 

Belvedere, ........ 69 

Bicycling-, ....... 20 

Bicycle Roads — 

Beaver Island, ...... 91 

Cross Villag-e, ...... 115-125 

Charlevoix, ....... 87-89 

Elk Rapids, ...... 71 

East Jordan, ...... 87-89 

Eeelanaw Peninsula, . . . . 60, 64 

Mackinac Island, ..... 20, 146-151 

Old Mission, ...... 64-69 

Petoskey Wheel way, ..... 100 

Petoskey to Harbor Springs, . . . 107-112 

St. Ignace, ..... 154 

Traverse City, ...... 60 

British — in Mackinac, ..... 139 

British Landing-, ..... 142, 151 



INDEX— Continued. 

page; 
Boarding- Houses, ...... 169-170 

Boardnian Lake; . . . . . .59 

Boardman River, . . . . . .59 

Bois Blanc Island, ...... 132 

Boyne City, ....... 85 

Boyne Palls, . . .... 40 

Buoys, ....... 158, 160 

Burt Lake, . . .• • . .129 

Brutus, ....... 127 

Cadillac, ....... 37 

Camping-, ....... 20-22 

Clam Lake, ....... 74 

Canal, the "Soo," ...... 165-6 

Carp Lake, . . . . . . . 128 

Carp Lake (Leelanaw) ...... 63 

Charlevoix, ....... 47, 79-84 

Cheboyg-an, ....... 131 

Cheboygan River, ....... 131 

Central Lake, ....... 68 

Chicago, ...... .27 

C. & W. M. R. R. . . . 27-32, 41-44, 66-71 

Chicag-o Resort (Charlevoix) . . . . .82 

Climate, ....... 18 

Conway, ........ 127 

Convent Cross Villag-e, ..... 123 

Conley Hill, 42 

Clothing-, . . ... . • .18 

Crooked River, . . , . . • .129 

Cross Villag-e, ...... 115-125 

Detroit, ........ 33 

Detroit River, : . . ... . 52 

D. & C. S. N. Co., . . . . . . 52 

D. G. H. & M R. R. . . . . . , 34 

D. G. R. & W. R. R . . . . .33 

Detour, ....... 158 

Devil's Kitchen, ....... 147 

Driving-, Sug-g-estions for . . . .20, 116 

Doug-las Lake, ....... 128 



INDEX— Continued. 

PAGE 

Drummond Island, ...... 158 

Kaprle's Nest Rock, ...... 154 

Karly's Farm, Mackinac, ..... 150 

Kast Jordan, ....... 85 

Klk Ivake, . . . . . . 72 

Elk Rapids, . . . . . . . 66, 72 

Ellsworth, . . . . . . . .69 

Frankfort, ....... 51 

French, the— in Mackinac, ..... 137 

Ferry — Straits of Mackinac, .... 152 

F. «& P. M. R. R. . . . . . . .34 

Fishing- (see "Trout Streams") .... 22 

Fort Mackinac, ....... 147 

Fort Brady ("Soo") ..... 165 

Fountain Point, ...... 63 

Fuch's Hotel, ....... 63 

Fruit "Belts," . . . . . . . 29, 41 

Game Laws, ....... 23-4 

Grand Rapids, ...... 31-2 

G. R. & I. R. R. . . . . . 32, 35-41, 126-129 

Grand Traverse Bay, ..... 57-75 

Grand Trunk R. R. . . . . . . 32 

Geolog-y of Michigan, ..... 14-16, 99 

Geography of Michigan, ..... 11 

Gypsum Beds, ....... 31 

Hammond, ....... 28 

Harbor Spring's, ...... 48, 107 

Harbor Point, ....... Ill 

Hay Eake Channel, ...... 160 

Hay Lake, ...... 161 

HisTORicAi. Sketches — 

Bay View, ...... 103 

Beaver Islands, ...... 89 

Charlevoix, . . . . . . .79 

Cross Village, ...... 115 



INDEX— Continued. 

PAGE 

Mackinac Island, ...... 135 

Petoskey, ....... 92 

Sault Ste. Marie, ...... 163 

St. Ignace, ...... 154- 

Traverse City, . . . . . . 57 

Holland, ........ 30 

Holy Island, ....... 86 

Hotels, ....... 19, 169-70 

Howard City, ....... 35 

Hunting, ........ 22 

Huron Lake, ....... 13 

Indians, History of — * . See "Historical Sketches" 

Indian River, ....... 130 

Inland Route, ...... 128-132 

Intermediate Lake, . . . . . . 67, 74 

Ironton, . . . . . . . 85, 88 

Jesuit Missions, . . ... . . 137 

Jordan River, ....... 86 

Kalamazoo, ....... 32 

Kalamazoo Resort (Charlevoix) ... 69, 82 

Ke-g-o-mic, . ... . . . . 105 

Lakes, the Great ...... 12-14 

L. S. & L. M. Transportation Co. . . . .46 

Lansing-, ....... 33 

Leelanaw Peninsula, ...... 60 

Leelanaw Point, ...... 52-63 

Lee's Point, ....... 61 

Leland, ....... 63 

Les Cheneau Island, ...... 156 

Lime Island, ...... 159 

Little Traverse Bay, ... 48, 69, 79, 96, 101, 109 

Locks Sault Ste. Marie, ..... 166 

Lover's Leap, ....... 146 

Lumber "Belt," . . ... 35-37 

Ludington, ....... 50 



INDEX— Continued. 

PAGE 

Mackinac Island, ..... 135-156 

Mackinac Straits, ..... 49, 153 

Mackinaw City, ...... 152 

Manistee, ........ 51 

Manistee River, . . . . . . 38, 43 

Manitou Islands, ...... 51 

"Manitou" S S. . . . . . 46-50 

Maps — 

Michig-an, ....... 6 

Grand Traverse Bay, .... 56 

Little Traverse Bay, . . . . .78 

Plat of Bay View, ..... 102 

Upper Peninsula, ...... 134 

Mackinac Island, ..... 144 

Marquette, Father ...... 155 

Marquette Trail, . . . . . 93, 98 

Massacre, Pontiac's ..... 139, 153 

Michigan— 

Geolog-y, ...... 14-16 

Topog-raphy. ..... 16-17, 25-6 

Profile of ....... 25 

Peninsulas, ...... 12 

Michig-an Lake, ...... 13 

Michig-an Central R. R. . . . . .44 

Middle Village, ...... 125 

Mormons, History of ..... . 80-89 

Mullet Lake, ....... 131 

Muskeg-on River, ...... 36 

Ne-ah-ta-wan-ta, ...... 64 

Nebish Island, . . . . . . 159 

New Buffalo, .... . . 29 

Nig-ara Falls, ....... 11 

Northern Michigan Line, ..... 47 

Northern S S, Co. . . . . . . 52 

"Northland," S. S. . . . . . . 52 

"North West" S. S. • . . . . 52 

Northport. ....... 60, 62-3 

Norway Hill, ....... 43 



INDEX— Continued. 

PAGE 

Oden-Oden, ....... 127 

Old Mission, ....... 64.66 

Omena, ........ 61-62 



Page, ........ 105 

Plateaus of Michig-an, . . .16, 25-6 

Patrol U S. N. . . . . . . .159 

Pellston, ....... 128 

Peninsulas of Michigan, . . . . 12, 14 

Petoskey, ...... 69, 92-100 

Petoskey, Steamship ...... 47, 50 

Pictured Rocks, ....... 15 

Pine Lake, ...... 83, 84 

Process-Verbal, ....... 163 

Profile of Michigan, ...... 25 

Point Aux Pins, ....... 132 

Pontiac's Conspiracy, ..... 139 

Port Huron, ....... 53 

Provetnont, ....... 63 

"Pudding Stone" ...... 15 

Pullman, ........ 28 

RaIIvROADS — 

Ann Arbor R. R. . . . . .34 

C. & W. M. R. R. 

To Grand Rapids, ..... 27-32 
To Traverse City, ..... 41-44 

To Petoskey and Bay View, . . 65-71 

D. G. H. & M. . . . . 34 
D. G. R. & W. . . . . . . .33 

F. & P. M. . . . . . . 34 

G. R. & I. 

To Grand Rapids, ..... 32-33 

To Petoskey, ..... 35-41 

To Mackinaw City, . . . . . 126-129 

Grand Trunk, ...... 32 

Michigan Central, ..... 44 

Railroad Rates, . . . . . . . 168 

Rapids, Sault Ste. Marie, ..... 167 



INDEX— Continued, 

PAGP 

Roaring- Brook, ....... 105 

Robertson's Folly, ...... 150 

Round Island, ...... 148, 157 

Round Lake (Charlevoix) . . . . 82, 84 

Round Lake (Pestokey) .... 113, 127 

Routes to Northern Michig-in, .... 27-54 

Sailors Encampment, ..... 159 

St. Clair River, ....... 53 

St. Clair Lake, . . . . .S3 

St. Ignace, ....... 153 

St. Tames, Beaver Island, . . * .89 

St. Joseph, ....... 29 

St. Joseph Island, ...... 159 

Spectacle Reef. ...... 158 

Sleeping- Bear Point, . 51 

*'Soo" The ...... 163-167 

•'Soo" River, ...... 157-161 

^'Snows" The ....... 156 

Sug-ar Island, ....... 161 

Sug-ar Loaf Rock, ...... 149 

Skull Cave, ....... 150 

Superior Lake, ...... 13 

Sutton's Bay, . . . . . .61 

Straits of Mackinac, ..... 49, 153 

Strang-, "King" ...... 89 

Sault Ste Marie, ...... 163-167 

Sault Ste. Marie River, ..... 157-161 

Steamship Lines— (See 46-53). 

Arnold Line, ....... 157 

D. & C. S. N. Co. . . 52 

Inland Route, ...... 128 

L. M. & L. S. T. Co. . . . . 46 

Northern Michig-an Line, .... 47 

Northern S. S. Co. . . . . .52 

Transportation facilities, . . -7,' 17 

Traverse Beach, . . . . . 61 

Traverse City, ....... 57-60 



3 



INDEX— Continued. 

PAGE 

Traverse Point, ...... 63 

Topinabee, ....... 131 

Topog-raphy of Michig-an, .... 16-17, 26 

Torch Ivake, ....... 73 

Torch River, . . . . . . 66, 73 

Tkout Streams — 

Bear River, ...... 43 

Betsy River, ...... 43 

Boardman River, . . . . . 39, 44 

Boyne Falls, ...... 40 

Deer Creek, ....... 86 

Jordan River, ...... 86 

Little Manistee, ...... 42 

Maple River, ...... 127 

Marquette River, ...... 42 

Monroe Creek, . . . . . .86 

Pig-eon River, ..... 130 

Rapid River, ....... 73 

Sturg-eon River, ...... 130 

Torch River, ....... 6(i 

Tunnel, St. Clair River, ..... 53 

Weicatnp, Father . . . . . . 120 

Welch's, ....... 66. 73 

We-que-ton-sing-, ...... 106 

Williamsburg', ....... 66 



dbc 1HcM^ Eriinaton, 



PETOSKEY, MICH. 




THE LARGEST AND Rcbuilt 111 1897^98* 

FINEST HOTEL IN = 

THE NORTHERN LAKE REGION, 

PASSENGER ELEVATORS. 
ROOM WITH PRIVATE BATH. 
ELECTRIC LIGHTS. STEAM HEATED. 
BOWLING ALLEYS. 

RATES, $3,00 per day and up. Special by the week. 

¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥ 

Address S. H. PECK, Manager. 



CHICAGO 

SfMfGstJIfchi^anllx 



Cbese be 



DETROIT, 



i 




Ipopular 
lines 



from 



CHICAGO, 
DETROIT, 
GRAND RAPIDS, 
ST. LOUIS, 
CLEVELAND, 
and many 
other places 

torn 



o o o ^ ^ o 



Northern 
SUMMER RESORTS, 



THROUGH SLEEPING CARS 
AND FAST TRAIN SERNICE. 



J. K. V. ACNEW, 

Cen'l Supt. 



CEO. De HAVEN, 

Cen'l Passenger Agt. 



cbe Summit Ibouse, 



R. N. HYDE, Proprietor, 



FINEST LOCATION IN THE CITY, 
REMODELED AND NEWLY FURNISHED, 
BATHS, ELECTRIC LIGHTS, 

RATES, SI PER DAY. 

NEAR M. C. DEPOT L INLAND ROUTE DOCK. 

Baggage Transferred Free. CHEBOYGAN, MICH. 



lp»aih l[Mace 
Ibotel, 



W. O. HOLDEN 

IS/1 A rsl A C3 E F^ , 



ANNAH <3c LAY CDO 




¥¥¥¥ 

The Best Tourist Hotel in the 
l\ North is at Traverse City, 

If you want a place for real 
comfort and rest, try it 

¥¥¥¥ 

■TRAveF=<SE: ^ixx, IVIicdhicsan. 

<3E:C3. E. ©F=RANC3, 

PETOSKEY, MICH, 

Insuf=rainic^e: AcsEiNinr 

¥¥¥¥ 

(TOTTAGE AND HOTEL 

INSURANCE A SPECIALTY. 







^^ 



3Mr\,-; .ifllJEi, 




ROUTE 
OF THE 

NoriHianO 



Sleeping 
Cars from 

St. Louis, 
Louisville, 
Indianapolis, 
Cincinnati, 
Chicago. 

RUNS 
SOLID TO 

Wequetonsing 

and 
Harbor Springs. 

a: 

Send to 

M.F.Quaintance 

Passenger 
Agent, 

PETOSKEY, 

for information, 



or address 



C. L. LOCKWOOD, Geni Pass. Agent, Grand Rapids, Micli. 



Zhc Ibotel ITmperiaU 



PETOSKEY, MICHIGAN, 



THE HUB OF NORTHERN 

MICHIGAN SUMMER RESORTS. 

THE ONLY HOTEL IN THE WORLD BUILT AROUND AN IMPOS- 
ING RESIDENCE, WHICH PROVES TO BE ITS MOST 
PLEASING AND ATTRACTIVE FEATURE- 
NOT THE LARGEST BUT BY FAR THE BEST 

-^,. _ ^.^^ 

FURNISHED HOTEL IN NORTHERN MICHIGAN 



Steam heated throughout and in sixty of the bed rooms, 
thereby affording a most pleasant location for hay fever 
sufferers late in August and in September. Electric lights- 
elevator — rooms with private bath — modern in every respect 

C. E. CHRISTIANCY, JR. 

Lessee and Manager 




The Dewey, 

^^^^^^^^^^ i^^i^nid ti^fi n^t^ ^*»*i%tH ARBOR SPRINGS, 

MICHIGAN, 

IRates : 

$2.00, $2.50 anO $3.00 per &a^. 
Special rates to tamilies bs tbe weeh. 



XX The finest 
flowing well in 
Northern Michi" 
gan is to be found 
on the Dewey 
Grounds. X X 



On line of G. R. and L and G & 
W, M, Rail Roads and in close prox^ 
imity to the landings of all Chicago 
steamers. 



tahe jflBicbigan and lafee 
Swperior Cranspcrtaticn <to^ 

THE FAMOUS LAKE ROUTE 

Between Chicago, Charlevoix, Harbor Springs, 
Petoskey, Bay View and Mackinac Island, A) 



TiJKKK Sailings Each week. 




The Steel Steamship Wlanitou, 

The Greyhound of the Great Lakes. 
Luxurious Service, 
Cuisine Extraordinary 

Passenger Steamers each week between CHICAGO, DULUTH 

and Intermediate Ports. 

The Iron and Copper District of Lake Superior. 

¥¥¥¥ 

For complete information, pamphlets; rates, etc. apply to any of 
the Company's Agents, or address 

JOS. BEROLZHEIM, 

Rush and North Water Sts, General Passenger Agent. 

CHICAGO. 




J. W. HOWARD, Prop. 



Howard 
House, 

Bay View. 

¥ 

Cbis 
Ipopular 
Ibotel 



continues to 
rise in the es- 
timation and 
pleasure of 
the m a n 3" 
happy g-uests 
that come 
each year. 

It is a 
Solid Comfort 
restful and 
homelike all 
around. 

Do j'ou want 
a g-ood bed , 
clean, airy 
room and 
plenty of well- 
cooked food 
and deli g-htful 
service? You 
will find them 
all here. 



It commands a fine view of the bay. being- of near and easj^ approach to it. and less than 
ten minutes' walk from the assembly building". Dummy station close by. Carriag^e and tele- 
phone accommodations and every attention for the comfort and pleasure of the g-uests. 

IRatcs: $2 per da$; $6 to $12 per weeh* 

Special rates to families and panics staying- the season. Table board $5 per week. 




''«iL"» 



^Mr<^^' 



